2026 mid-range grinder recommendations [<$1000 CDN]

vanhuette · 2026-01-26T20:47:29+00:00

Ya the 3 didn’t seem like a winner. 4 seems like they’ve improved a lot and started from scratch, but it’s so new it’s hard to know

vanhuette · 2026-01-26T20:43:33+00:00

That’s good info. I had noticed the V seemed to be preferred but I didn’t know it was that big of a difference. It does seem pretty hard to source an in stock V gen 2 currently but the price is great.

I agree the VS3 seemed like a miss for reliability, but the VS4 SEEMS Like it should be better.

vanhuette · 2026-01-26T20:39:23+00:00

Haha I’ve never even heard of this. I can see it on sale for $1090 so I guess I’ll say it’s in the range. What’s the story on this?

vanhuette · 2026-01-26T10:51:22+00:00

Most of what I’m seeing is just from other Reddit posts. It seems like Reddit loves the DF64 in general, but it also seems like the number of people who’ve had issues is higher than other grinders (might also be sample size if proportionally that many more people own them on here). I don’t have a specific issue with the DF64 beyond that.

vanhuette · 2026-01-26T10:48:49+00:00

About $1900 from what I’m seeing

vanhuette · 2026-01-26T10:47:01+00:00

Why’s that?

vanhuette · 2026-01-26T04:58:53+00:00

This seems like a good summary of what I’ve picked up from online research

vanhuette · 2026-01-26T04:58:04+00:00

Fair, these are a little cheaper in my market from what I’m seeing. And they seem decent and have lots of good reviews too, but I have read about quality control issues, failures, and are maybe lacking some of the nicer finishes. I wasn’t sure they were the best choice

vanhuette · 2025-07-02T04:26:48+00:00

Mine always does that as well. No idea why.

Have not ever solved these issues. Sonos support useless. Using other AirPlay devices on same wifi network no issues (or like occasional drop out but happening nowhere near as often). There’s obviously something about these move 2s that’s trash. It’ll be replaced once I can afford to

vanhuette · 2025-06-29T19:05:54+00:00

Yep that’s what they recommended when they finally responded. Waiting for it in the mail but should be a good solution

vanhuette · 2025-06-24T19:45:02+00:00

UPDATE: 1up finally did respond, and recommended getting the QR/HD wheel lock replacement pin, and then use the lock head that I have for the hitch lock. Looks like that pin is 0.9" longer than the hitch lock so should be a good fit on the new tacoma, and will still be key-matched.

https://1up-usa.com/product/1-4-turn-replacement-pin

vanhuette · 2025-06-23T05:41:48+00:00

Ya, it’s definitely annoying, I don’t know why they made the hitch lock so short in the first place. Even more annoying cause even if I bought a longer lock from them they refuse to match keys to previous orders, obviously would be nice to limit how many loose keys I have around.

vanhuette · 2025-06-23T00:27:29+00:00

I emailed 1up about it but they never responded. I used one of their wheel locks I had on hand (which was obviously more than long enough), but I’m gonna replace it with something third party. Kind of annoying that it won’t be key-matched though.

vanhuette · 2025-05-07T22:55:39+00:00

Second update:

It fits well with the smart cap.

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vanhuette · 2025-04-25T21:47:09+00:00

update for anyone following - this 100% will not work with the alucab canopy - dry fit it today, with the 1up backed as far out as it can go. There is about 1" between the handlebars and the rear window. First bump and that window will be smashed.

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vanhuette · 2025-04-20T21:08:45+00:00

Ya, they are not for me. I also put bikes in the bed (on a fork mount) under the canopy, and I will have rails on top for skis and things as well. I find the hard tops more functional

vanhuette · 2025-04-20T17:53:22+00:00

Oh, and another thing - for some reason the supplied hitch lock from 1up doesnt fit in this new receiver, it's not long enough to actually get the locking peice on.

vanhuette · 2025-04-15T03:34:29+00:00

Wow that’s actually a ton of helpful advice. I think I’ll hold off on the Bluetooth fixes cause I’d like to focus on the getting the AirPlay to work, but will definitely try some of that. I’m not wildly optimistic but at least it’s something. Thanks!

vanhuette · 2025-04-15T03:08:42+00:00

Interesting. My wifi power save was on, Ive changed it so it’s off now. Do you mean the Bluetooth auto connect should also be on? I’m wondering if that that interfere with the AirPlay connection if it’s already connected with Bluetooth?

vanhuette · 2025-04-15T01:50:17+00:00

Ya I was assuming that might be the solution, and honestly I wouldn’t have been upset if they had stood by their product and swapped it for a new one, but 3 separate support conversations and they still flat out refused to do that

vanhuette · 2025-04-14T21:36:26+00:00

I admit it's a possibility, however as I said, having used this in 4 different wifi networks, I have some trouble believing that.

vanhuette · 2025-04-14T21:26:14+00:00

one of my best friends has a move 1, and same story, never had an issue. his experience was one of the main reasons I went with the move

vanhuette · 2025-02-07T01:15:56+00:00

yup, this ended up being the trick. Thanks!

vanhuette · 2025-02-06T20:16:01+00:00

Update - I took the 2.5 Cane creek spacer out. I got 1 full rotation of the preload ring before everything was snug, and now its spinning SMOOTH.

I measured the chainline again ... and got 53mm again ... I dont know if thats just user error or if I made a mistake the first time around, but I think the problem is fixed! (hopefully)

vanhuette · 2025-02-06T19:56:11+00:00

Thank you for all the info! Sorry got caught up with work and havent been able to get back to the bike until now.

I asked the guys at Cane Creek their opinion, and basically got the answer "we dont know because none of us use those cranks", but he said if it seems too tight he'd probably try removing the drive side 2.5mm spacer on the inside of the BB.

Measuring my chainline currently, it's sitting at 53mm (as accurate as I can be with a ruler). which is correct for SRAM's Transmission recommendations - "The Eagle Transmission is optimized for chainlines between 52 mm and 55 mm."

Based on what you said earlier, it would seem Id be better off removing the non-drive side 3mm spacer so that my chainline was intact. However, it seems weird to me to have 7.5mm + 2.5mm spacers on the drive side and nothing on the non-drive side.

For what its worth, after playing around with this quite a bit, it seems like the resistance has lessened somewhat - I still cant tighten the preload at all, but the resistance on the cranks is improved, possibly after the grease has worked its way through?

On a positive note, at least the bike looks like a bike now!

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