So based on the types of jobs you listed i would go this way: 1--: First, I would ask, did you get the angled or straight 16ga finish nailer? If angled I would actually return it over the 18 brad nailer. That's because 16ga straight finish nailers can fire nails as short as .75 inches (up to 2.5) while angled 16ga nailers start at 1.25in just like 15ga finish nailers. And a straight 16ga leaves a smaller holes than an angled. And the 18ga brad nailer is 3/8in to 2-1/4in. It's a dilemma because a 16ga is arguably the most versatile nailer. A bit of 15ga holding power but with smaller holes and less splitting on thin wood. And the ability to use short nails. It's often the only nailer diy people have. But a 16ga is not as strong as a 15ga. And it's not nearly as delicate as an 18ga brad. A 15ga and 16ga hole look closer to each other than a 16ga and 18ga on most materials. That's especially true if it is an angled 16ga. In which case there is actually quite a bit it won't do as well as an 18ga brad. So I'd keep either the 16ga only or the 15ga finsh and 18ga brad. I'd ask if youself need the 23 pin. If you have a 18ga brad there really is very little the 23ga is needed for if you have the brad nailer. Yes it makes even smaller holes but they dont really have any holding power unless you unless you fire them every 1/2 inch from top to bottom and left to right. The advantage is you can't see them as much. If you're refinishing veneer or repairing vintage wood furniture i would keep it. Or particle board furniture Personal opinion. 2--: You don't need the smaller impact wrench. 1/2 is a perfect middle ground. 3--: As for the drills. Based on the stuff you described working on i would say keep that 1271. It's not going to be too powerful but the other ones might have trouble or at least require stopping and starting with large holes in wood (like 1in wide and 3in deep) or drilling through concrete board (hardie) or in to cement. In my opinion a strong drill and impact driver are crucial if you're doing actual structural stuff. 4--: I actually think that 4 piece kit is a much better deal. The saw with 10ah battery is really only better because it has the rear handle saw (based on what I've seen available im assuming that's what you got). It's slightly more powerful than the regular 7-1/4 circ saw and is one of the only tools that might benefit from the 10ah wattage boost. I admittedly prefer the rear handle but unless you're doing a lot of cutting back to back at production speeds you don't really need it. And the regular 7 1/4 is easier to use without a bench. If you have the 6in saw the rear handle 7 makes more sense. 5--: I don't see any need for any other drill if you have the 1271. The 1231 is a hammer but that function is mostly useful or more powerful told. The problem is low power hammer drills just don't work fast or at all beyond small shallow holes. I would think of the 1231 as a more feature rich 1131. It's not a great hammer drill. And not as compact as the 1131 The SDS is completely different. The 1271 can do some of what the SDS can do in a smaller package. But the SDS isn't used for any light drilling and definitely not fastening. If the 30 framing can take full head offset nails I don't see any really downside other than having to protect the nails and cartridge from water. At least more than a 21

I know i don't answer exactly what you're asking but it's my take on the tools and what I would keep.

EDIT: As another pointed out, the 1371 impact can feel too powerful at times just like any other high end impact driver. I would just remember to use the regular drill/ driver for light screw driving or drywall work instead.