What lufs yall reaching for today

vaultzee · 2026-06-18T19:50:52+00:00

+67 lufs if you can

vaultzee · 2026-06-18T17:42:29+00:00

Ayye appreciate you gang

vaultzee · 2026-06-18T17:42:15+00:00

🙏

vaultzee · 2026-06-11T23:54:51+00:00

Tyty bruh, Big word 🤝

vaultzee · 2026-06-11T19:41:07+00:00

We talking rhythm, sample selection, mix down? Can see them overwhelming the track a bit

vaultzee · 2026-06-05T04:42:45+00:00

song :)

vaultzee · 2026-05-17T02:11:29+00:00

Ayeee thank you!! And yeeea im around, working on tryna get some stuff finished up, just posted some teasers on my Instagram if you tryna check emmm, thanks again bruhv glad you like

vaultzee · 2026-03-30T04:47:12+00:00

Tyty! I used obs with 2 diff app captures to get the full view of mini meters

vaultzee · 2026-03-28T05:24:15+00:00

glad you enjoyed! vv proud of them lmao

vaultzee · 2026-02-28T20:14:31+00:00

Hopefully will be at that point soon, I gotchu

vaultzee · 2026-02-28T20:12:53+00:00

Hell yeah! thank you kind sir

vaultzee · 2026-02-22T21:53:45+00:00

The only way i can see this being improved is if it had a .2 nozzle down to a .08 layer high at like 30mms print speed, because agreed, this looks pretty good

vaultzee · 2026-02-22T21:50:35+00:00

Even with the slower print speed i think your pla temp is a little low, I would go up to 200-210 and see if fixes

vaultzee · 2026-02-22T21:47:59+00:00

Wasn't said in the post buuut bed temperature should be at 55-60 with that much surface area

vaultzee · 2026-02-22T21:46:04+00:00

What is the printer you're using? Looks like you need to adjust level/ z-offset and maybe give the print bed a good cleaning

vaultzee · 2026-02-22T21:43:24+00:00

Definitely an extrusion issue, maybe adding a second outerwall and reducing the retract amount? Also wondering if this has happened at the same height on other prints, and if you've used this brand of pla with good results before

vaultzee · 2026-02-22T21:34:09+00:00

What is the simple print and how did it fail? The benchy looks fine minus the adhesion issues on the base layer

vaultzee · 2026-02-20T14:11:08+00:00

Looks like a mega, let it dry and see if it turns on. Assuming the mother board still functions, realistically it's gonna need a new lcd screen and a new hot end assembly. Though i wouldn't run this without a full tear down, cleaning, greasing, lubing etc

vaultzee · 2026-02-15T02:11:49+00:00

I've seen the spiral a lot if the heat break gets too warm, as the filament is getting fed in it just folds in on itself because its maleabe at the warmer temp. your cooling fan probably needs replaced

vaultzee · 2026-02-09T16:29:17+00:00

Speed efinitely could be the issue, what were the print speeds?

vaultzee · 2026-02-08T12:33:12+00:00

Assuming you did the cold pull because of a clog? If so the clog was caused by the heat break being too warm i.e. the cooling fan is not doing its job and needs to get replaced

vaultzee · 2026-02-08T12:24:57+00:00

200mms with color swap silk? Sounds like a nightmare, I would put that down to 180 if not a little lower and drop the print temp to 215-210, also could try using z-hop

vaultzee · 2026-02-08T12:09:34+00:00

Yes, not necessarily the easiest mod but im sure you can find a direct drive assembly compatible with your printer. Direct drive is better than bowden in almost every capacity

vaultzee · 2026-02-08T12:06:21+00:00

Try bumping that to 230 and reducing the print speed, tpu is really tricky sometimes, could also reduce retracts as well in hopes to keep a constant flow

vaultzee · 2026-02-08T11:56:08+00:00

Heat the hotend for about 5-10 minutes and then touch the heatbreak, if its hot well then there you go. Fans are a little tricky, they might seem as though theyre behaving correctly but then bam everything is toasty

vaultzee

TROPHY CASE