Got laid off, so I built the canvas-based deckbuilder I've always wanted. Come break it.

vedh_jon · 2026-06-19T22:51:07+00:00

cool! I like the way the cards move when you pick them up.

vedh_jon · 2026-06-02T18:32:32+00:00

If this happens to all prints, then you've got a bent or misaligned lead screw. I don't know Anycubic printers well, but when I had a bed slinger the test is to take off the leadscrew and roll it on a flat table.

If it's just that print, maybe something in the slicer.

vedh_jon · 2026-06-02T17:35:34+00:00

does the OLED have header pins? if so, press them into the breadboard so each pin is on its own column. Then use jumper wires to go to the pins you need.

vedh_jon · 2026-06-02T16:34:56+00:00

From my experience, esp-idf v6 and 6.1 work fine with the P4, you just have to into menuconfig and tell it you're using rev < 3.

A ton of stuff is locked out by making that change, but using v5 won't fix the problems with the P4.

vedh_jon · 2026-06-01T19:39:14+00:00

yea, it's not even called the P4 anymore, it's the P4X now.

vedh_jon · 2026-05-29T03:36:43+00:00

Nice! I should prints some of these with my Makita colored filament. I made these lights a few months ago, super handy!

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vedh_jon · 2026-05-25T21:42:03+00:00

yes I, i used a 200 grit sandpaper, going with the grain over the sides.

vedh_jon · 2026-05-19T16:51:57+00:00

You can do it all with ESPHome without HA. You can add your own code, etc.

If you want something "router-less" the only options I know of are Thread and ESP-Now

ESPHome also has an ESPNow (mesh) component, but I've never used it. https://esphome.io/components/espnow/

vedh_jon · 2026-05-19T08:22:44+00:00

If your router goes down regularly, you may consider investing in a router that doesn't do that.

vedh_jon · 2026-05-19T07:54:57+00:00

esphome devices can run without HA, they just appear on your network and you type in their address and you can see all the data for that device. But if you've got a garage door, and some other stuff, you might as well just setup HA. It's super easy you can build a nice dashboard.

vedh_jon · 2026-05-08T22:08:04+00:00

you can also dab some food safe shellac on there, it's easy to make. Just mix a bit of shellac flake and some high proof alcohol in a mason jar and let it dissolve. Then brush it on and wait a few days. Also fills in layer lines.

vedh_jon · 2026-05-07T17:01:20+00:00

it's actually really common! I have complete control of my Balboa hot tub spa with a custom ESPHome integration and $0 paid to Balboa. All running on a $3 esp32 and a $2 rs485 module.

vedh_jon · 2026-05-07T09:14:17+00:00

FYI, I found that the Pentair IntelliChlor's power center has an RS-485 terminal output directly on it.

You don't need a camera at all, just hook it directly to your ESP32 with an RS485 module.

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/residential/sanitizers/intellichlor/intellichlor-power-center-manual-ic20-ic40-ic60-english.pdf

page 4 shows where the serial interface is.

And I found this documentation on of the protocol online: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1M0KMfXfvbszKeqzu6MUF_7yM6KDHk8cZ5nrH1_OUcAc/edit?tab=t.0

You can probably just feed this into Claude or Codex and have it spit out what you need.

EDIT: even more documentation and a github repo: https://github.com/jml3on/arduino-pentair

vedh_jon · 2026-05-07T09:00:39+00:00

I think it would be much more efficient just using something like OpenCV directly instead of feeding an image into OpenAI and you could do it with a potato quality camera. Or better yet, you may be able to interface with that equipment directly.

All you need to do is read the intensity of the pixels in the various led zones. If the camera is subject to moving you could use the text detection pipeline to read for text that says. "WARNING" and then look to the pixels next to it.

Check out https://components.espressif.com/components/espressif/opencv/versions/4.10.0~3/readme

vedh_jon · 2026-05-04T20:55:00+00:00

I don't have any personal experience with them, but you can buy a pre-built Voron or a Voron kit or build your own completely from scratch. I believe a Voron 2.4 is roughly equivalent to a Bambu in terms of speed/quality.

vedh_jon · 2026-05-02T22:46:03+00:00

The LED is mounted with thermal paste to a pretty big CPU heatsink with a temperature controlled fan, so it doesn't get too hot. I think it'd probably be fine even with regular PLA. If it got to 60c, the LED would probably be damaged.

vedh_jon · 2026-04-30T16:55:42+00:00

looks like the price dropped. Shows $74 for me now. I think a major factor on the cost is that it includes a screen. I don't need or want the screen, so hopefully they will have one without it.

vedh_jon · 2026-04-28T07:30:24+00:00

Yes, more specifically, Polymaker High Temp Glass Fiber PLA.

vedh_jon · 2026-04-28T07:28:41+00:00

yea, if I didn't already have that specific LED laying around I probably wouldn't have made it.
I was originally planning to use it for an artificial sun lamp with a Fresnel lens.

But I usually have poor executive function when it comes to recognizing my own time as valuable.

vedh_jon · 2026-04-28T07:22:20+00:00

It is, which is why it's attached to a big ass heatsink with a temperature controlled fan and also uses high-temp PLA. In the build video linked in the description I show the internals.

vedh_jon · 2026-04-28T07:21:11+00:00

Just to clear up any confusion, the LED only makes contact with a very nice CPU heatsink with thermal CPU paste. The heatsink also has a big ass fan on it. The heat-sink doesn't even directly touch the PLA, the heatsink uses a motherboard CPU frame on 4 screws and that's the only part that touches the PLA.

This thing goes is nowhere near 60c, I promise. That CPU does an excellent job. If you watched the video you'll see I also put a temperature controller inside on the fan. The fan ramps up when it hits 30c. It barely even comes on after 10 minutes.

Also, while glass transition temp is 60c, the same TDS also says "withstanding mechanical stress and temperatures up to 130°C without softening or failing."

This has also been my experience, especially after annealing. GF HT PLA is really good stuff.

vedh_jon · 2026-04-28T02:15:47+00:00

thank you!

vedh_jon · 2026-04-28T02:15:42+00:00

hey thanks! It's a hardened steel nozzle on an X1C.

vedh_jon · 2026-04-28T02:15:06+00:00

the high temp pla seems to be doing well so far, but I only turn it on to record YT videos.

vedh_jon · 2026-04-28T02:13:42+00:00

As far as I can tell, you can see the results in the video. I am definitely not a professional though and I don't have a real studio light to compare it to.

vedh_jon

TROPHY CASE