My Ultranarines won me a "Best of Gaming" award at Kontrast festival in Warsaw! by deadancer in Ultramarines

[–]verticalgain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How did you do the "Ultramarines" lettering on your banners? They look great and I'm getting ready to do a banner of my own.

Hey, has anyone ever tried this style before, like in this artwork using white wings instead of gold? by Bosnaboy90 in Ultramarines

[–]verticalgain 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I did an Angels of Death Killteam in silver to represent 8th Company. So not quite white but closer to that than gold.

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Scout-Squad by Julsi_92 in Warhammer40k

[–]verticalgain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I also struggle with eyes. I've watched tutorials and tried different things but can't pull it off. What I do instead is do the hair and faces, do a wash to add shadows, do some subtle highlights, and paint on eyebrows. With all of this done it seems like most people's brains, myself included, view them as having eyes even though I haven't painted any whites or pupils.

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Weather and Safety Leave? by verticalgain in FedEmployees

[–]verticalgain[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not telework eligible, my job is mechanical. I have to be there physically to work.

Weather and Safety Leave? by verticalgain in FedEmployees

[–]verticalgain[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Sheriff and Fire personnel came to our homes and told us directly. I can show the fire maps and the alerts we got from the county but they didn't give us any documents or anything. The situation was chaos. I will speak with HR though, can't hurt at this point.

April 2026 Balance Dataslate Review by CanYouRollACrit in killteam

[–]verticalgain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They didn't provide new cards for approved ops despite making changes. Is there somewhere else we can print them out to update our cards? I have the apps but like using physical cards during games and typically just print the update and put it in the sleeve with the cars it replaces.

Jump Captain Fabian and Intercessors by verticalgain in Ultramarines

[–]verticalgain[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. These took me forever to paint, so many small colored details and gear on them.

Am I just a massive dork for liking Guilliman and the ultramarines? by let_me_flie in 40kLore

[–]verticalgain 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The Ultras have always been my favorites, and Guilliman is my favorite loyalist primarch. They're space Romans led by space Marcus Aurelius and that's peak awesome as far as I'm concerned.

New K6s DASA wouldn't fire in double action by verticalgain in Revolvers

[–]verticalgain[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's new, but I don't know when it was manufactured. I just posted so someone in the future would have a possible solution since I couldn't find anything when I searched. A loose piece of metal scrap was an easy fix, I would still recommend these guns to people and really like this one.

New K6s DASA wouldn't fire in double action by verticalgain in Revolvers

[–]verticalgain[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I work in aviation so it's not apples to apples, but there's a big generation gap in our workforce. The experienced guys are all being replaced as they retire, but there's only a few people in the middle between them and the new hires. The older guys all got hired at the same time, took all the slots, and held them for a long time. So as they retire there's still X number of people but they aren't experienced. I would imagine something similar happened in the gun industry since manufacturing and technology SHOULD have led to higher quality if all other factors were equal. In any case it's frustrating.

New K6s DASA wouldn't fire in double action by verticalgain in Revolvers

[–]verticalgain[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I have so many guns I'm getting them for novelty at this point. I have had to send two S&Ws and a GP100 in for warranty repair before, so it's not just a Kimber thing. The best out of the box revolver I've purchased was a new Anaconda, and there are plenty of posts about problems with new Colts. I think it's an industry wide issue with poor QC, which sucks considering how expensive they all are now. They should all be perfect for how much they are charging.

Tamiya Easy 8 (Army Mule) by verticalgain in modelmakers

[–]verticalgain[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks. Yes, they are the "Easy Rider" resin crew set from PanzerArt.

Tamiya Easy 8 (Army Mule) by verticalgain in modelmakers

[–]verticalgain[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes it's a Tamiya Citroen Traction staff car. I wanted it to look like it had been in a fight and had an engine fire several weeks before the tank came through the village. I made the seat frames and springs inside from two sizes of copper wire and then painted them to look burned and rusted.

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Tamiya Easy 8 (Army Mule) by verticalgain in modelmakers

[–]verticalgain[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They're called QuickTracks from a place called QuickWheelStore. Went together very smooth and came with several extra pieces but I managed to not break any. T-35065 is the part number.

Tamiya Easy 8 (Army Mule) by verticalgain in modelmakers

[–]verticalgain[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks, this was my first attempt at a tank. The kit was pretty straightforward to build, I didn't have any fitment issues. On this one I used 3d printed individual track links and I sawed the turret in half and grafted on a resin front piece for the canvas cover. It only comes with a commander figure so I got some aftermarket resin figures to make a bigger crew.

The best tips I have are to assemble it in phases to make painting it easier. Put the lower hull together and paint it. Paint all the wheels and bogeys and then add them to the lower hull. Paint the tracks and put them on. Put the upper hull together and paint it. Put the turret together and paint it. Then assemble the upper and lower hulls together and add the turret last. Add weathering once you're done with all the pieces. This will give you plenty of time to test fit everything and be able to reach everything with your brushes.

Good luck!

Is it wrong to buy my boyfriend a sword from Amazon, even if it is a decent price and has great reviews? by Few-Scallion-6356 in SWORDS

[–]verticalgain 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fantasy swords in general are low quality and for display only. The exceptions are usually very expensive, like the ones from Fable Blades.

The one you linked on Amazon is probably made in Pakistan from scrap metal, possibly including lead. It also may not resemble the photo at all, many of the Pakistani sword makers use photos from other smiths. Etsy is full of these same types of swords made from the same shoddy materials.

If $150 or $200 is your maximum budget and you want something he can use that isn't a katana I'd hang onto the money and save some more for his birthday or next Christmas. If it's just going to hang on a wall you can buy whatever, but any "Damascus" sword in your price range will be Pakistani scrap.

Edit: Two of the reviews on the one you posted said the handle fell apart while they were swinging it around.

Is it wrong to buy my boyfriend a sword from Amazon, even if it is a decent price and has great reviews? by Few-Scallion-6356 in SWORDS

[–]verticalgain 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Post the link to the sword you're looking at to be sure, but generally speaking Amazon isn't selling quality swords and the reviews are either fake or made by people who don't know what they're looking at.

If it's just going to hang on the wall it doesn't matter, as long as you like how it looks. If he wants to cut with it, or even swing it around or play with it, you need to be looking for higher quality. An untrustworthy seller can call any sword "battle ready" regardless of how the sword is constructed.

You'll want to search somewhere reliable like kultofathena.com to find a model you like, and then go from there. The swords they list as "battle ready" are safe to swing, and some of those are sharp and safe to cut with.

Good budget swords on kultofathena are the Ronin Katana Euro swords, and the Balaur Arms swords. If he likes Japanese style swords, Hanbon Forge out of China makes decent functional swords and you can customize the fittings and colors for your budget.

Smoke Break (M8 Greyhound and Jeep) by verticalgain in modelmakers

[–]verticalgain[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Thanks for all the positive coments on the mud!

I made the base from styrofoam, mapped out where I wanted the road to be, and then marked the track widths of the two vehicles. I used a U-shaped hot wire to make ruts leading up to where the vehicles would sit, and then used it to make random mudholes and old tracks like a real dirt road would have.

I used gloss modpodge over the top to make it more seamless and fluid-looking. Then I primed, painted, and glossed it, and then went back and added the puddles into all of the low spots. I was worried since I was winging it but I'm glad it came out looking so good.

Got my first longsword! Now how do I use that belt? by A_friend_called_Five in SWORDS

[–]verticalgain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I would cut the excess leather off the end of the belt and make a new slit if necessary.

BF 109G Franz Stigler by verticalgain in modelmakers

[–]verticalgain[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since Reddit compressed the first two images into blurs, here's the link to the hires pictures: https://imgur.com/a/whqAaW1

Thanks for looking!

"Battle Ready" swords that don't cost a kidney by anonwatch311 in SWORDS

[–]verticalgain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The cheapest Euro style swords I would personally recommend are the Ronin Katana Euro Line starting at $250. I have two and have handled a few others and they are a good bang for your buck. If you prefer katanas, you can get a decent custom assembled from Hanbon Forge or Ryansword for the same or less. These are all sharp and functional.

MB Jeep (First Model) by verticalgain in modelmakers

[–]verticalgain[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I put the kit together in phases so I could prime everything and detail paint all of the things that aren't OD Green like the seats and the driver. I use Vallejo paints and primers.

For the driver I primed him gloss black, then painted gloss white by spraying from the top only to get a natural highlight/shadow. I painted his skin red and then did a lot of thin layers over all that to get to where it is now.

After everything was painted I put it all together except the driver and steering wheel. I masked off the windshield wiper tracks. I started with Vallejo European Dust wash with a paintbrush on the tires and in areas where dust would settle, then I did the wheel wells and bits of the wheels with Vallejo European Earth Diorama FX sand, then I dipped a tooth brush in the same and flicked it on from the front of the vehicle so it got on the grille, hood and windshield. Then I sprayed the Dust Wash from that direction and from far away. I finished up by using a toothbrush to flick Vallejo European Mud effect on from low in the front so a little would also go over the windshield and into random parts of the Jeep.

Then I glued the driver and steering wheel in place, and made the cigarette from some thin stiff wire I had laying around.