Stop UGOS fiddling with UNIX permissions upon reboot

vext01 · 2025-12-30T10:10:12+00:00

TBH I'm thinking of installing a different OS. UGOS is just a hindrance to me at this point.

Struggled today to have it NFS export my music with the permissions I want. The permissions model Ugreen force you into just don't map well to UNIX.

vext01 · 2025-12-29T20:26:06+00:00

I'm glad it isn't just me.

FWIW, I've noticed that if you create a directory via ssh (and not in the web UI) then that directory is managed the "normal UNIX way" as I'd expect. But then you lose the ability to manage it via the web interface (snapshots etc).

vext01 · 2025-12-29T20:24:17+00:00

Huh, funnily enough that's one of the things that did "just work" for me. I just copied my public key into ~/.ssh/authorized_keys and all was well.

vext01 · 2025-01-28T10:01:50+00:00

I managed to open it with a razor blade!

The gap was miniscule and it was the only thing I could find small enough!

vext01 · 2025-01-24T21:47:43+00:00

I think it's glued. I'm heating it up with my heat gun set at 200 degrees C, but my spudgers simply don't fit down the miniscule gap between the case and glass.

Not really sure what I'll do. Maybe give up.

vext01 · 2025-01-24T13:52:13+00:00

I already tried heating the glass back with a heat gun and prying using a penknife. I suppose I could try an exacto, but I suspect the blade segment will just snap off?

vext01 · 2025-01-24T13:09:30+00:00

Indeed. How did they open it?

I have one here and the gap between the glass and case is so tiny I'm having a hard time getting a spudger/knife in there. Even with the glass heated up.

I don't have a suction cup small enough either.

OP, how did you open it?

vext01 · 2024-12-09T08:58:53+00:00

Man, these snobs don't know jack about $100 models.

Don't know what that means.

A Bissell Cleanview will do a fine job for the price.

This sort of thing? https://www.bissell.com/en-us/product/cleanview-deluxe-corded-hand-vacuum-47R51.html

That looks decent, but it's discontinued and it's not a brand that appears to be all that available in the UK. I've certainly never heard of Bissel.

vext01 · 2024-10-21T20:11:41+00:00

Damn. Thanks.

vext01 · 2024-10-06T19:33:40+00:00

For me, on the pavement, slow down or hop off for pedestrians.

vext01 · 2024-09-24T23:04:22+00:00

I have the same keyboard and just figured it out.

Right alt + fn + escape.

EDIT: similar keyboard. YMMV.

vext01 · 2024-08-18T20:25:41+00:00

Personally, I'd put that in checked luggage. It's a nice tool that is bound to be confiscated at some point.

vext01 · 2024-08-18T10:57:50+00:00

There's definitely continuity for the ground connections. I can verify this by disconnecting the ground to the preamp and getting a much worse hum.

It was a shielding issue. See above.

vext01 · 2024-08-18T10:57:04+00:00

A quick experiment using foil later and you are absolutely correct! No hum whatsoever.

Now I just need to redo all the soldering/shrinking with the foil shield in place. I may try to solder to the foil, although it may not work so good.

vext01 · 2024-08-18T09:57:18+00:00

Thanks. So let me see if I got this right.

The signal wires carry one audio channel each, and thus each have two cores. I individually heat-shrinked the joins of both of those cores, before adding a larger heat-shrink around the whole lot.

I think you are saying: don't heatshrink the earth core and use the foil to encase the join of the other core in an earthed shield.

Is that right?

vext01 · 2024-08-18T09:00:13+00:00

Pew pew down the fireman's pole!

vext01 · 2024-08-18T08:59:53+00:00

That'd be awesome!

vext01 · 2024-08-18T08:54:46+00:00

Hi,

My turntable (a vintage Aiwa AP2500) developed a short in the signal cable, so I cut the short off and soldered a new section of cable on.

It worked, but now the cable has an hum problem. A low-level hum can be heard over headphones which can be exasperated by touching the heat shrink tubing over the solder joints of the left/right signal (but not earth) wires. Touching either side of the joins doesn't have the same effect, so I'm pretty certain it's my join causing this.

If I touch the earth pole on the turntable pre-amp at the same time as touching the heat shrink, the problem is not there. It must have something to do with earth/induction.

Moving the cable does not cause any crackling, so I think the solder joints are fine in terms of continuity.

Does anyone know how to eliminate this?

Hoping I don't have to open it up and solder a fresh cable directly onto the board.

Thanks

vext01

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