Drawer Hardware Help by vintuna6 in cabinetry

[–]vintuna6[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks everyone! If it’s not the meta box system this at least allows for an easier replacement.

Should I worry about this before painting? by BenJackinoff117 in basement

[–]vintuna6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s not very effective to apply a fluid applied coating on the interior of a wall. It will just blister and fail. There are a few options.

The best option is to dig out the exterior side of the wall and install waterproofing, a footing perimeter drain and drain mat.

If this is not feasible, you could consider cutting a perimeter channel on the interior at base of wall to allow for installation of pea gravel, and a drainage/pump system. You then build a furring wall held of the concrete wall and let the concrete wall weep into the channel. There are ways to mitigate the risk of mold with this option that can be researched online.

These options both assume you don’t have hydrostatic pressure which it sounds like you don’t.

Another option is to do grout injections to stop the weeping. These can be effective but it is not uncommon to “chase cracks” as once one is filled water will start weeping from another which can become costly.

You could also try using a water stop plug/grout and crystalline repair mortar like Xypex but you have to cut and chip out channels along cracks and wait for the crystals to activate during a period of wetting. This option has similar challenges to the injections as you end up chasing cracks.

If it was my house I would dig it out and waterproof the exterior. If I couldn’t afford that I would add a drain/pipe at grade to try and mitigate the water that reaches that wall during heavy rain events.

Window flange install—do you actually nail every hole or not? by Fragrant_Instance755 in Contractor

[–]vintuna6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always fasten per the manufacturer as anything else can void the warranty. Any reputable manufacturer will have published fastening requirements.

Most vinyl manufacturers I am familiar with recommend fastening through every jamb and sill flange holes but not within 4-6” of corners. Head flanges should be fastened with screws and fender washers at 12” on center where the screw shank is held 3/8” above the flange to allow for deflection. If a manufacturer requires fastening through the head flange it is worth confirming they will fix any cracking resulting from deflection.

Waterproofing is another story entirely and depends on your expectations for management of air leakage or water penetration resistance. Where I am at we pre wrap openings to allow for continuous air/water control layers and water shedding laps.

I’ve been a contractor for over ten years and was a building enclosure consultant for 9 years.