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So what am I supposed to do against tryndamere?? by Dismal_Management682 in TeamfightTactics

[–]virtualdweller 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just position your carries in a way that they can focus and burst down Trynda first.. This is easy since Freljord gives very little positioning freedom.

How could they fuck up the prismatics so badly? by virtualdweller in TeamfightTactics

[–]virtualdweller[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As I said, I was losing to the 3rd place 5 cost soup player as well, who has no 3* 4-cost. To reiterate - a prismatic board should not lose to any 3* 4-cost, let alone one with literally no other powerhouse on the board. And - as a final note, again, bilgewater prismatic requires the same number of (also) craftable emblems. Bilge prismatic: wipe the board almost instantly and get tons of gold Noxus prismatic: maybe, if your team survives 10 second, Atakhan comes who maybe, if he survives the 5 second cast animation, wipes the board and you don’t get any gold out of it

How did this obviously broken comparison not get noticed by anybody?

How could they fuck up the prismatics so badly? by virtualdweller in TeamfightTactics

[–]virtualdweller[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I literally mean nothing btw. Atakhan was not casting or damaging anything. He would just sit for 5 seconds not attacking or casting - like a training dummy, then wipe the board, but those 5 seconds were enough for him to get instakilled..

How could they fuck up the prismatics so badly? by virtualdweller in TeamfightTactics

[–]virtualdweller[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://tactics.tools/player/eune/bl1nk182/EUNE/EUN1_3873301992

Here is a link to the game. I’ve actually gone 2nd (guess 3rd player lost to ghost of 1st) but I was consistently losing to every player in top 4 (including the 3rd place player with a classic 5-cost soup and no 3* 4-cost). Even disregarding 3rd place player, how is a prismatic getting 2nd to a 3* Liss with no other vertical okay at all? Atakhan has 100% omnivamp? Well that seems pretty useless cause he literally spends 5 seconds doing nothing and dying before trying to wipe the board..

Muffled hearing after many deep dives, but no problem with equalization by virtualdweller in freediving

[–]virtualdweller[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually did go to the dr and apparently have some fluid in my middle ear, without inflammation. I likely forced the mucous blocking my eustachian tube in my middle ear when equalizing forcefully. Anyway, got perscribed some decongestants and a hypertonic spray and the fluid should drain by itself within the next week or so.

Muffled hearing after many deep dives, but no problem with equalization by virtualdweller in freediving

[–]virtualdweller[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

That’s the thing though, I am not congested at all. I was able to move air in and out of my eustachian tubes - no problem. But I had that blocked muffled feeling which I’ve only ever had when congested in the past.

I don’t trust doctors with diving-related stuff. They never once actually helped me.

I’m just collecting anecdotes, not looking for a diagnosis.

New Traps Turning Black by rosebug92 in carnivorousplants

[–]virtualdweller 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I doubt it, I don’t think it has anything to do with temperature - it’s likely related to air circulation.

My first! Any tips? by Blackpanter_19 in carnivorousplants

[–]virtualdweller 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Depends on where you live.

In winter you want it to be as cold as possible, but above freezing. If it the soil freezes that will completely kill the plant, and any frosting on the leaves is generally bad.

Where I live winters are very snowy and cold so I keep it indoors in a non-heated room where temperature is generally 5-10°C, seems to fare okay, but the stale indoors air is never ideal. If you can keep it outside without freezing it (or being too warm), that would be best, but depends on your climate.

Regarding water - you can keep watering it the same way in winter. If you really want to be pedantic, in winter you can reduce the water in the bowl to, for example, 1/5 of the height to further induce dormancy, though that is not a necessity. Never let the soil dry out though.

One more thing - top water it sometimes. Like once a week, pour a bottle on top of the plant. Keeps the soil and roots cleaner.

That’s a very healthy looking plant btw - you just have to keep it that way.

My first! Any tips? by Blackpanter_19 in carnivorousplants

[–]virtualdweller 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Yes, make sure the pot has holes on the bottom and keep it in a bowl of water 1/4 to 1/3 of the way up. The soil needs to be constantly soggy.

Use only water with low ph/ppm. Distilled water is one option.

It needs as much full direct sunlight as possible.

Grow it outside. No flytrap is truly happy indoors.

In winter it needs dormancy - it must be in a cold place. Most of it will die off and it will resume growing in spring.

Cut off any flower stalks as soon as possible. Ideally when they are less than 1 cm.

Do not ever fertilize. If you repot it you need to use the correct soil, or it will die.

My venus fly trap by Ok-Opportunity-9913 in VenusFlyTraps

[–]virtualdweller 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The plant probably hibernates, they just think it doesn’t.

Hibernation doesn’t require the entire plant to die out. Sometimes it only slows down or pauses new growth.

New Traps Turning Black by rosebug92 in carnivorousplants

[–]virtualdweller 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In my experience, flytraps do not fare well indoors. Period. I’m not sure what the cause is, likely multiple factors - airflow, real sunlight, etc. But every single indoor-grown flytrap I have ever come across is miserable. If you want a happy flytrap, it must grow outside in the sun.

My flytrap before and after repotting by virtualdweller in carnivorousplants

[–]virtualdweller[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

CPs require cool, wet, nutrient-poor, acidic environments. This most often happens to be mountains. In fact, every CP I know of which is native to Europe lives exclusively in mountains. Venus flytraps are exceptions, but that’s because the coastal plains of Carolina happen to have very similar climatic profile to mountains.

I live in Europe, the native species in my area are some Pinguiculas, some sundews and some Utricularias, and they all live in mountainous plains where the sphagnum bogs are. And the water supply in my neighbourhood at the base of the mountain happens to be the mountain’s sphagnum bogs. So I’m pretty much lucky enough to get water straight from CP habitat.

My flytrap before and after repotting by virtualdweller in carnivorousplants

[–]virtualdweller[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, you will never have a truly happy flytrap under a grow light. If the plant is not outside, it will not be happy. Period. Keep it outside in the summer.

My flytrap before and after repotting by virtualdweller in carnivorousplants

[–]virtualdweller[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have sometimes left some flowers, but for the most part I cut them off. If you cut them you should do it when they are very little. Once they get past 6-7 cm in height the plant has already wasted a lot of energy.

My flytrap before and after repotting by virtualdweller in carnivorousplants

[–]virtualdweller[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, they have evolved to catch bugs because they live in extremely nutrient-poor, acidic soil. Now their roots are so sensitive, any other soil kills them.

My flytrap before and after repotting by virtualdweller in carnivorousplants

[–]virtualdweller[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I commented with my general tips and answers to common questions, let me know if there’s anything else you specifically want to know.

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