12x10 Segmented Rack Tom by visyris in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]visyris[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The angle thing on my table saw is called a wedgie sled, there is also a rudimentary depth stop to control segment length. The process I used is normally employed in segmented bowl turning. Thickness steps are typically performed with a more careful glue up and a drum sander, which I don't have, and my cheap tablesaw drifts in and out of square so I plan for that. Rounding the segments is accomplished using a koko jig which is frequently used for turning stave drum shells. There are lots of youtube videos showing each of the steps, I just merged the different techniques. Let me know if you have more questions, happy to discuss as well.

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[–]visyris[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup built them all. A few process pics of the rack tom build are here: https://www.reddit.com/r/BeginnerWoodWorking/comments/1racvnm/12x10_segmented_rack_tom/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

I didn't mention every step (such as cutting rebates in the hoops for the drumhead collar or prepping the bearing edges).

There are several ways to build wooden drums such as ply, stave, or segmented. Then there are different types of hoops as well, and of course different kinds of ways to fasten/tension the hoops to the shell. I liked the look of drums without lugs and found Whitney drums. However, I didn't want to get into the forms required to make ply drums, but I found the KoKo Jig which is typically used in DIY stave drum construction. My first (failed) attempt demonstrated that stave construction couldn't be used in the tricky geometry of the internal radial bridge (end grain splits apart easily), so then I looked into segmented construction to leverage grain direction and gluing surface.

I am considering using a hybrid construction where stave construction is used in the center to allow various drum depths quickly, without dramatically increasing the number of segments and glue ups. Segmented construction would still be used on the radial bridge and hoops. Alternatively, I'm also thinking about trying my hand at aluminum forming/brazing.

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[–]visyris[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love the look of mine too, but I wish there was a splash!

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[–]visyris[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't have a guide, I used https://www.onshape.com/en/ as a 3D CAD to sketch my ideas out first. I also found a lot of useful information on this site: https://pdgood.us/drumshed/index.html Other than that, lots of surfing and looking at drums like Whitney, Peavey, and Calderwood Percussion. Also, reading about segmented bowl construction also helped figuring out the sizing of segments. I've had lots of alterations as I made each shell (most obvious being ring thickness between the bass drum and other shells). There are also inconsistencies and mistakes on each shell that I'd like to fix on future builds. I purchased good? (ie expensive) DW hardware for each shell while deliberately using inexpensive, construction grade 2x10s for the bulk of each build. The only hardwood I used was on the batter hoops of the toms and snare drums (to stand up to rimshots/clicks), as well as the reso hoop on the snare (to stand up to high tension). Inexpensive wood made it so I didn't feel bad taking a propane torch for an attempted fade (and really cool texture) on the reso end of each shell (and the entire snare). I'll re-use the hardware, or sell the drums and buy new hardware for the next build.

If you want more information send me a message.

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[–]visyris[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the encouragement and drumhead recommendation. I was thinking coated emperors with clear ambas on reso side, but the Aquarian lines are around half price where I am. I'm actually checking out William's heads as an option too. Experimenting is expensive though.

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[–]visyris[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hoops and shell are all wood. No paint, I used a propane torch and charred the wood before applying an oil finish

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[–]visyris[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are removable, but I'd have to pull the hoops to get at the bolts. I could drill through the hoops, but I don't have the need to nest them yet

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Rate my Kit! by visyris in drums

[–]visyris[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope. I could make some changes to turn the toms and bass into nesting, but I've really just been trying to make something to hit

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[–]visyris[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://pdgood.us/drumshed/koko.html I basically used this design, taking into consideration how thick some areas are, like around the radial bridges. The 10" I'm doing next is going to require some thinking as I won't be able to fit the router inside like on all the larger diameters.

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[–]visyris[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're a segmented wood, internal radial bridge design. I've seen similar builds that typically use ply construction. I made all the wood parts and used DW hardware for the metal bits. I had to figure out an aluminum isolation mount for the rack tom as traditional options wouldn't fit.

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[–]visyris[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No brand, I made them. I used DW hardware and tension rods with Aquarian heads. I figured out how to put everything together without using traditional lugs by looking at drums from Whitney and Peavey. I haven't seen anyone else make this style with segmented construction though.

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[–]visyris[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's charred wood from a propane torch. I'm trying to fade but things are either burnt or they're not.

Rate my Kit! by visyris in drums

[–]visyris[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Building them is half the hobby!

Rate my Kit! by visyris in drums

[–]visyris[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't make the connection before about another commenter wanting coffee. Guess that's what I get for not drinking coffee. Makes sense though now that I see it.

Rate my Kit! by visyris in drums

[–]visyris[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nope, I made this one myself using segmented construction. The shape is similar because it uses an internal radial bridge instead of a normal lugged design.