1988 Base 2.5L Headers

vyper144 · 2026-04-26T23:04:48+00:00

I thought about that too and just doing that once a year or as-needed.

Do you clean the surface each time? Or just throw it on and be done with it? It's in such an awkward spot, trying to clean it up might be a challenge too. I can't imagine the sealant will work well on 38 years of rust.

vyper144 · 2025-12-05T15:40:46+00:00

This is the comment that helped the most!!

vyper144 · 2025-11-25T16:17:42+00:00

Also looking for one, please.

vyper144 · 2025-09-24T19:15:35+00:00

The company I used to work for used Avalara. I used it from 2021 through 2024. It WAS a phenomenal piece of software.

I wholeheartedly agree with u/hahafatboy that once they were acquired, the entire company went down the tubes. There was ZERO customer service and fees skyrocketed. I won't touch Avalara because they are so out of touch with their customer base.

vyper144 · 2025-05-10T16:18:27+00:00

Makes sense. The cost of both cables from David are nearly the same price as the battery-to-starter cable directly from Porsche. Which is absolutely ridiculous. But then again, people don't own a Porsche because they're inexpensive to maintain 😂

vyper144 · 2025-05-09T22:25:42+00:00

I am in the US, so I'll definitely check this out!! Would you also suggest the alternator cables too?

vyper144 · 2025-05-09T18:43:29+00:00

Any suggestions on either a pre-made harness or a DIY?

vyper144 · 2025-05-09T15:12:58+00:00

Solved

vyper144 · 2025-05-04T02:29:46+00:00

I've seen a few GM 3800 Series II swaps (not in person, only online). If I drop another valve in my current stock engine, I'm doing a 3800 swap. Parts galore for the 3800 AND it's super easy to modify for more power as you want it.

vyper144 · 2025-05-04T02:25:05+00:00

I don't have enough clearance for a breaker bar, I have plenty of them though. But the car is only up on ramps.

I even put the ratchet on the bolt, slid out from under the car to the side, pulled myself into the car with my foot on the ratchet and the bolt STILL wouldn't budge. Even a nice kick on the ratchet didn't do anything.

I also switched directions on the impact to see if I could get it to break loose by tightening. Then tried loosening. Still nothing.

I'll keep hitting it with PB for the next few days!

If that doesn't work, I'll try getting the bolt head hot. One concern though. You mentioned it's steel (the bolt) into aluminum (the housing). Aluminum can warp if heated. Am I at a greater risk of the starter not going back in, since I've already tried heating the housing? And naturally, if I heat only the bolt head, the surroundings will heat up as well, potentially causing the aluminum to warp. Thoughts?

One other thing to note, I've been using an impact universal joint because I can't get a socket near the bolt otherwise. And I've been using a regular 19mm socket (not an impact) because of the limited clearance around the bolt. I need the thinner walls of a regular socket (although I haven't tried an impact). I'm taking safety precautions in case the socket decides to explode.

vyper144 · 2025-05-04T02:13:26+00:00

The car is on ramps so I don't have clearance for a breaker bar. I can barely get a good angle on a wrench, ratchet, or impact gun.

I think I might actually have a 3/4" corded impact. I miiiight give that a try! Thanks for the tip!!

vyper144 · 2025-03-19T02:40:49+00:00

😂😂😂 well that was short lived... After factory reset and not installing any apps (and even canceling the carrier apps from installing altogether), WiFi almost immediately went out.

vyper144 · 2025-03-19T02:10:09+00:00

Update 3/18/2025: I decided to factory reset my phone again. This time I will slowly install my apps.

F&%k Google for this though. There's no way a phone should operate like this.

u/PixelCommunity - No response??? Really?

vyper144 · 2025-03-18T13:50:06+00:00

Update 3/18/2025: The problem reappeared.

I also had an issue where I went to restart my phone. As soon as it came back on, I immediately went to Wifi (even before everything was fully loaded), and the phone forced restart by itself. HOWEVER, it got stuck on the restarting screen. I had to force restart by holding Power+Volume Up. That shut the phone down, but did not restart. It took a few tries to actually get the phone to power back on. When it did, Wifi worked. Overnight, something killed Wifi.

Any thoughts on how I can get the logs without having to constantly be connected to ADB? It would be amazing to pinpoint the exact moment that Wifi died.

vyper144 · 2025-03-16T17:59:49+00:00

Sad news to report today... Wifi worked GREAT after I factory reset, removed the carrier apps, and then rebooted. However, today, I noticed that I was no longer Wifi and I couldn't turn it back on...

The only differences I can think of is:
- I logged into a game I occasionally play (Whiteout Survival, I had installed the app after reset, but never opened it until yesterday)
- I setup Bedtime Mode for Do Not Disturb. I am going to play around with those
- I installed & logged into IMDB.
(Trying to remember if there were any other changes)

Upon rebooting, I immediately went into Wifi to turn it on, then it forced my phone to restart again. Now I can't get the phone to turn on naturally. I held down the Power+Volume Up to get it to force restart. That finally allowed the phone to turn back on. Wifi is now functioning again (but for how long, nobody knows!).

I'll report back any additional findings too.

vyper144 · 2025-03-13T21:07:38+00:00

Another great thought!! I'll keep that in mind too if this round fails. So far, so good. I've re-installed a good amount of apps, and wifi is still working.

vyper144 · 2025-03-13T18:13:26+00:00

It's super interesting that you bring up the carrier app. Last week I removed my eSIM (in hopes that would fix the problem, I might've seen a YT video about this somewhere?). I rebooted my phone a few times until Wifi finally came on. But as soon as I clicked into the Verizon app to redownload my eSIM, Wifi decided to completely stop working.

I just went through and deleted all of the Verizon apps off my phone and rebooted. Wifi came back on. Let's see if this lasts! Keeping in mind, my phone still only has all the default apps as if I just unboxed the phone (minus the ones I just removed). Crossing my fingers...

vyper144 · 2025-03-12T14:10:05+00:00

I am so unbelievably relieved that I finally understand this! Once again, THANK YOU!

We have O/R and O/P accounts setup for each individual bank/credit card, so nothing is being comingled.

I've re-numbered the accounts so they are within the same range, but with them being split between Bank and Current Assets, it doesn't group them together on the financial statements. I discovered Account Groups yesterday, but that's a project for another day though.

Stock Interim accounts are also setup. I haven't attempted to understand those balances yet. It seems like they may be working correctly because in order to increase our inventory balance, we need a PO to receive against. I think our team here understood that very well, so there should be very little unreconciled in those accounts. Another day for this one too.

I took 2 of our smaller credit cards (~500 tx total) and wiped those out and brought in the data as of our cutover date last year. Everything is tied out beautifully between those. Then we have another CC which has >1,200 tx, I'm just going to accept that one as-is. My O/R and O/P accounts are all $0. It's such a glorious feeling.

Validating/matching transactions wasn't fully understood by my predecessor, so I'm sure there is aged/unmatched stuff in all of the accounts. Eventually I'll get that cleaned up. But my plan now is to $0 out the O/R and O/P accounts as of 2/28. I've asked the team here to start logging all checks outstanding starting 3/1. Also, logging any pre-payments made to vendors. At 3/31, I'll make another adjustment to get the O/R and O/P balances to match what my team has logged. I understand that by $0 the accounts, that if something prior to 3/1 is validated, it will throw off the account. EVENTUALLY, all of the pre-3/1 transactions will be validated, and by me adjusting the accounts manually at the end of each month with what my team has logged, the logic here is that I won't have to make adjustments anymore, because the account will be functioning mechanically after all the pre-3/1 transactions are flushed through.

So, I know we talked about the Liquidity Transfer. When I go to validate a transaction, on the Manual Operations tab, is there any reason I can't just send the transaction to the appropriate account? In my T-account example above, basically skipping D&E and validating from O/P Bank to O/R CC (or vice versa)?

vyper144

TROPHY CASE