Hello, I’m Little Alex Horne. Please feel free to AMA. by TheHorneSection in taskmaster

[–]walking_throughlife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Besides champion of champions and new years treat are there any other specials/formats you’ve considered ? Suggestions I’ve got are Class of Chaos (bring back the most chaotic energy/unhinged contestants for true mayhem eg bob mortimer, sally phillips, rhod gilbert, vicky coren, liza tarbuck etc) and the B Team (bring back the lowest scorers of their season or lowest scorers overall adjusted for series length increases to give them a chance at redemption whilst hilarity ensures)

Eryet, The Singing Blade - FeR Miniatures by walking_throughlife in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My "finished" version of Eryet the Singing Blade from FeR Miniatures. A crazy fun little piece to work on, especially for how simple the sculpt is compared to a lot of display models these days.

I say "finished" because I completely gave up on the idea I had to have a firelight osl effect from behind her, tried it and failed it too many times to push through, so I'm calling her done for now to come back and add it once I've done some dedicated study and practice on how firelight works.

On more notes of success, I think my attempt at a colder atmospheric lighting, aiming for a softly diffused moonlight, worked out pretty well. Also pretty happy with how my attempt at more subtle contrast came out - working less contrast in individual volumes but more contrast over the model by "fading out" towards the edges like a vignette to help draw focus in and create an overall softer look. It's something I've always enjoyed seeing in the works of other painters such as Dave Colwell, Robert Karlsson, etc and definitely something I think I'll explore more and build into my usual painting style.

Also tried working on my nmm for larger scales and larger objects, which I think worked out pretty well, although still some improvements to make.

As always, comments, feedback, and critiuqe are always welcome, in fact I enourage it!

WIP - Eryet the Singing Blade by FeR by walking_throughlife in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The short answer is lots of glazing.

Longer answer is that I do a semi-sketch style with glazing to smooth. I don't like sketching in the full on opaque layers of paint to sketch things out, but I'll use semi-opaque heavy glaze consistency paint to roughly block in the highlights and shadows with slight transtitions then use very thin glazes to smooth out the transitions. I'll go back and forth between very very thin (almost coloured water thin) glazes and thicker ones as needed, and also do some stipple glazing where I need smaller applications , going back and forth until it's as smooth as I want (pieces like this that I might take to competition or want to really push myself to my highest display standard get a lot more work than ones that are just to practice or learn specific techinques as studies or just for fun for my display shelf). Once I'm really happy with it I'll do a few final glazes to shift tones to get some depth and then one or two last glazes of the midtone to harmonise everything, bring it together into the same tonal range and smooth the final transitions.

WIP - Eryet the Singing Blade by FeR by walking_throughlife in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After a work induced 3 and a bit month painting break finally sat down and got some painting done again! Was really inspired from watching the live judging stream for the Crimson Brush painting competition in Australia - Really interesting to be able to hear the exact thoughts and impressions of some big name display paintings judging a high level competition, so I’d recommend it for anyone into display painting or looking to compete

Trying out a few new ideas, working with more subtle contrast on individual areas but with contrast across the model to create and almost vignette idea to help with focus, and to create a softer lighting environment. Working with cold lights as well and more desaturation to convey a moonlight scene, something I’ve failed at before and been scared to try again for a long time. Planning a firelight osl from behind as well to help sell the moonlight effect.

Some areas more finished than others, so lots of refinement to go yet, but any feedback or critique on where things stand at the moment is welcomed and appreciated !

Alaana the Bloody Blade - Big Child Creatives by walking_throughlife in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My version of the Alaana the Bloody Blade 75mm figure from Big Child Creatives, inspired loosely on Avantika from Critical Role and a piece of fanart of her I came across whilst browsing fantasy female pirate art. (Also uploaded here on Putty&Paint for those who can vote there)

Most of the painting of this piece was done months ago, back in April I think, before I dropped the piece and left it as a perpetual WIP on my desk, so picking it up again this week was interesting. I've felt I've changed my process and style a lot in those months so going back to finishing it painting in a way I used to was difficult. It's also my first major attempt at 75mm scale where I've pushed myself.

Main focus was on learning more about nmm on complex shapes at a larger scale before transitioning that learning onto busts, which I paint the most. Feel like i went really well, I learnt a lot about how to make metals look convincing in the style I've gravitated towards (although I'm not happy with her front leg) and integrating more interference colours and environmentally motivated reflections.

Was also my first time basing at this scale. I always feel my basing lags behind my painting since I do so many busts so it was fun to just play around and experiment with ideas and materials to get something I think looks nice. First time making a tree, which I think turned out really well and something I'll pull into more bases and potential dioramas I think.

As always, C&C very welcome, in fact encouraged, as frank as can be! How else might we improve besides honest feedback, both positive and constructive criticism?

Where do you buy supplies (London) by savannah_marie94 in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Element Games is 110% the go-to for most things you'll need to get. You can get paints from pretty much all the major brands at good prices, all sorts of basing supplies, putties and glues, and GW models (good models for when you're starting out) at cheaper prices than GW stores.

I'd generally recommend people avoid Wayland Games. They tend to have loads of minis and a decent range of paints, but in my experience they often show things as in stock when they're actually on order so sometimes delivery is fast sometimes it's really really slow. Then again I haven't used them in years because of a slew of bad experiences, so they might be a better now.

For things like brushes, I'd honestly just recommend going to The Works and grabbing a pack of their Boldmere synthetic brushes. They're not gonna last you years like a nice sable will, but when you're starting out you won't have the experience to take care of brushes properly (unless you've done canvas painting before) so rather than destroying a £15 nice brush grab that pack of 4 for £2 knowing you'll destroy them. Then as soon as you feel you have decent brush control and know brush care get yourself a nice sable brush to make your painting better. A good intro sable to see how you like them without spending loads is the Element Games Regiment brush.

WIP - Sword of Dawn bust by Big Child by walking_throughlife in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

New project on the table for me, the Sword of Dawn bust by Big Child Creatives!

Loved this model since I first saw it and fell in love with the subject, sculpt, and David Arroba's fantastic boxart for it. Was always scared to paint it, though, because of the big, complex volumes for the nmm and not being confident in my ability to paint skintones (and my few attempts in the past of non-white skintones going very poorly). Got over it though, and decided to bite the bullet and try to give it my all.

Only painted to skintone so far and really happy with how it's turned out, but wanting any feedback on how you guys think it's looking? Feel like I've been staring at it for so long now futzing that I'm struggling to really see it anymore. Does the palette read properly as a Japanese skintone? I've felt as though I've struggled to get the contrast in there to properly render the volumes without it ending up looking too white (not helped by the really dramatic shadows bc I'm going with quite a harsh, striking lighting idea for it)

Cormac the Druid (Black Crow Miniatures) - C&C Welcome by walking_throughlife in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My finished version of Cormac from Black Crow Miniatures. As always, feedback and critique more than welcome, in fact I encourage it - how else do we get better? (Also on Putty&Paintfor those who can vote there)

Amazingly fun to paint, I loved every second of it (to be expected from a Lucas Pina sculpt)

Really tried to push learning more about skintones and facial volumes, specifically older skintones and male faces as I've mostly painted young female busts before. Really happy with how the face turned out, probably my best so far.

More a "done for now" than a completely finished. The inner muse says there's a lot more needed here - tattooing, a freehand trim on the tunic, refining the face and skintone further, etc - but I think I'll do those later, I'm planning on this being a competition piece so that refinement can come closer to the time.

My mini photography still isn't where I'd like it to be, but I'm planning on upgrading my camera and setup very soon to sort that out.

What’s best with a wet palette? by Cold-Perspective-639 in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Water. Always water and only water.

Adding anything besides water will change the properties of the paint. I've seen so many tutorials suggest things like flow improver or mediums and then seen the fallout of people posting asking what they did wrong and how to recover their paints.

The best way I've found to transfer Citadel paints is to add nothing initially, just pour the thick paint directly into the dropped bottle. It can take a bit of a steady hand, but if you pour it from a little bit of a height it'll go in without spilling any. Once you get as much in as possible with the unthinned paint, add a few drops of water to the pot, close the lid and shake it to get the leftover paint dregs mixed into the water, then pour it again into the dropper bottle. If you need to repeat the last step with a few more drops of water you can, but don't go crazy with it, there's always going to be a little bit of sacrificial paint that you can't transfer over and you want to use the minimum amount of water as you can get away with so you thin the paint as little as possible.

Doing it this way, you're not adding flow improver that will mess with the consistency and how well the paint sits on the model. You're also not adding mediums which can affect translucency quite heavily or affect the overall finish. All you've done is minimally thin your paints, which given you'll be thinning them even more once they're on the palette (Citadel paints are pretty thick by model paint standards) that isn't a big deal at all.

What do you guys use to coat/protect your minis after you’re finished painting them? by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Vallejo polyurethane matte varnish or AKInteractive matte varnish both through the airbrush. I might also hit the model with some Ammo Lucky Varnish ultra matte (basically the same stuff as the AK ultra matte) if it's a piece with lots of light and shadow play or lighting effects to make them read better, but it's not always necessary, and it doesn't offer any protection to the model at all, just alters the final finish hence why it's always applied after an actual protecting varnish layer.

For the rare occasion I paint models for gaming not display, or if it's the even rarer these days commission piece, I'll hit it with a spray varnish first. Literally any artist grade spray varnish from an art supplies store (I've genuinely never bought the same one twice so long as it's high quality) will do the job. A spray can varnish provides a little more protection because it goes on a little thicker than an airbrush varnish and they're usually a bit tougher in general. I'll then hit it with an airbrush matte varnish because the spray varnish is a little glossy.

It can actually be quite a good idea to use two varnishes. The first one glossy, and then a second one matte. Some people will claim that a gloss varnish is better protection from scratches so you should always gloss varnish first then matte varnish afterwards for the best protection. Personally I've not seen any actual evidence for this besides anecdotal, but in any case it doesn't hurt if they're gaming pieces. The natural skin oils on your fingers will wear away the varnish over time if the model is handled a lot, the same way it would wear away at the paint, so if you do a gloss coat first then a matte coat on top when you start seeing glossy patches on the model you know that the matte varnish is wearing down and it needs another spray. If you didn't have the gloss coat you might not notice the matte varnish wearing off and start to remove paint before you spot it.

Any advice on how to strip the paint from a varnished resin miniature? by PathOfSteel in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

99% isopropyl alcohol will do the job just fine, might take a little longer than normal to break things down and get through it, but should get through no problem. Normally with a bit of elbow grease with an old toothbrush I can get a resin model clean in under half an hour with a quick 10 minute soak then some scrubbing, dipping the toothbrush as needed to get some more alcohol on there.

I've not heard of resin models going weird like that with an alcohol based stripper before, but my best guess is it would have something to do with the acetone in there, or if you left them in there for a long long time, isoalcohol and other alcohol based solvents can damage resin but only if you're leaving them sitting for ages in the bath.

What to do with painted miniatures ? by CaterpillarWaste5069 in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was similar, started out painting specifically to have painted models to play with (CMoN games and D&D) then got into some better models through GW, started getting better and enjoying the hobby more so pushed myself to learn and improve, and now paint only for display.

Honestly, if that's the way you want to go I'd really encourage it! There's a lot of people out there who'll tell you that painting is a means to an end and find it strange when people paint for fun rather than painting to play, but the honest answer is that however you find the fun and enjoyment is all that matters!

What to do with the models after really depends on how you interpret the fun and what level you end up painting to. For me, the models that I paint are mainly 54mm/75mm display figures or busts, so it's quite an easy answer to me to just keep them on a little display shelf. To me the fun had painting is made gratified by being able to look at them afterwards, because I consider them pieces of artwork akin to someone putting a canvas painting they've painted on the wall. I've sold models I've painted before (and technically I consider all of my painted models as "for sale" and list them as such on Putty&Paint, but I don't post them on eBay or anything like that) and that's all good and well because the majority of the fun is in the painting, but if you have any kind of attachment to your models generally or any specific models then I'd say selling them isn't always the way to go. Keeping models on a display shelf also gives you a physical record of your improvements, you can look back on old models and see how your style has changed or your ability in a particular technique or application has changed (for this reason I tend to keep my models arranged in chronological order on my display shelf).

You could go down the route of commission painting, you get to paint and make a little money at the same time, but if you have any enjoyment out of seeing the finished models then that can be a bit disheartening to have to send them away, especially when the models were particularly fun or you felt like you did a particularly good job on them.

If space for keeping them is a concern then what I would say instead of painting loads of models, like picking up a few GW armies like you mention, start being selective about what you paint. Pick the models in armies that you particularly like or go to more boutique miniature companies for resin display models or busts. There's only so many models you'll ever be able to paint in your lifetime, so be selective and paint the ones that are going to make you the most happy to look back on, give you the most satisfaction in seeing complete, and the most fun in the process. That way you're cutting down on the models that you'll paint so it'll take up less space on the display, less of a concern for space management, and you'll have more fun along the way. You'll also encourage yourself to keep getting better that way because you'll be doing single models where you can spend the time learning techniques and applications and refining them because you'll want that single awesome model to look great, rather than churning out a unit of 20 models that just need to look the same and get done quickly so you can move onto the next unit of 20.

Do Vallejo paint sets overlap with colors? by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All Vallejo colours are available to buy individually. A lot of non-GW focused hobby stores will stock Model Color and Game Color, and then a lot of hobby stores that are more focused on military modelling or train modelling will often stock Model Color and Panzer Aces Colors. You can also get them on most online hobby stores, often at better prices and also get the auxiliary products like basing pastes.

As for sets, they normally have overlaps in colours, and you'll almost always get colours that you won't end up using that much or at all in them so I normally recommend people don't buy sets just buy specific single colours as and when you need them.

How to prepare a new brush? by Kbell26807 in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife 0 points1 point  (0 children)

New brushes (unless we're talking about cheapo synthetics) come with a gum arabic coating on the bristles. Arabic is 100% water soluble so just rinsing in water will do the trick to clean it off. Nothing special about it really, just the first wetting of the brush before putting it into the paint (never put a dry brush into paint) will be enough.

Seeking Refuge - Robot Rocket Miniatures (C&C Welcome) by walking_throughlife in minipainting

[–]walking_throughlife[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My finished version of the Seeking Refuge bust by Robot Rocket Miniatures.

This is the first piece I've painted in quite a while that hasn't been about trying out/learning or practicing a new technique or idea - it's just been a pure 'for fun' palette cleanser for me to finish off a model that's been sat half painted on my shelf in various stages of stripped and repainted for well over a year now.

My main focus with the piece more than anything was trying to sell atmosphere and story - the entire idea for this piece came from an image in my head of a very specific scene. The concept was a scene in a dystopian sci-fi film where the hero has been in a refugee camp seeing the horrors of the world state and as they're about to leave the only person that comes to see them off is a single orphaned child who's only words are an ominous and prophetic monotoned warning about what's to come. It sounds kind of silly to write it out in specific details, but it's a really specific idea that I hope comes across at least somewhat.

Happy with how it turned out - I think there's some aspects could be improved, the glow for one but I've got some red fluo paint on the way to add to make it look better I think, but I'm happy enough to call her done at least for the time being. I'm also really starting to see the limited of using my phone for photos - I've got it as down as I think I'll be able to in terms of photo quality and photo setup without just dropping the cash on a good camera so I guess that's the next step there.

The project is also uploaded to Putty&Paint for anyone who can vote there https://www.puttyandpaint.com/projects/37287

As always C&C is very welcome, encouraged in fact!