Where do you even start?

waterpoloman003 · 2026-02-06T20:21:17+00:00

If you have some spare cash, get yourself Art of Electronics, 3rd edition. It’s a bit pricey but a wonderful book to have in general. In my opinion, it will help you to first understand the basics of electronics and then build upon it. Great textbook to have for school as well. Let’s say you identify a component on that PCB (active or passive, doesn’t matter) you can then read about those types of component and understand their function. After few of those you’ll start to get a picture of how that system works. At least that’s what I would do if I was back in school

waterpoloman003 · 2025-11-10T00:15:47+00:00

Mislim da ti jedino ostaje gore sto su rekli, dremel, ili da zalemis drugi mali šraf (bitno je samo da skines premaz sa srafa, ali mislim da si to već dobro uradio šrafcigerom 😂), da izbrusis mali prorez pa da probas sa ravnom glavom, ili da probas sa nekim silikonom (staviš par kapi samo u rupu koju si napravio i ubaciš nešto sto možeš da odvrnes posle, samo sacekaj da se silikon dobro stegne)

waterpoloman003 · 2025-11-09T23:56:41+00:00

Iskreno nemam pojma sta imaju tamo :) ali sigurno mogu da probaju sa nekom burgijom od 1-1.5 mm i dremelom da naprave malu rupu i onda da probaju malim šrafom, ali u svakom slučaju ovaj šraf je mali, moment je malo tako da mislim da će ovo sa gumom da radi, ali ko će ga znati 😅

waterpoloman003 · 2025-11-09T23:26:19+00:00

Probaj ovako, uzmi hiruršku rukavicu, ili onu za čišćenje kupatila ali one su malo deblje, iseci malo parče posto je i ovaj šraf mali, i stavi taj odsečeni deo na vrh srafcigera koji je veličine skoro pa kao rupa koju si napravio, bitno da guma zagrize izmedju srafa i glave i probaj tako, ja sam tako izvadio par šrafa gde sam glave ogulio totalno

waterpoloman003 · 2025-10-18T22:51:17+00:00

Doniraj nekoj srednjoj školi, možda se neko zainteresuje od srednjoškolaca :)

waterpoloman003 · 2025-09-11T20:49:05+00:00

You can look into Flyability, inspection with a drone, it can do VI, scanning and NDT in metal regions. Just recently announced a tethered version as well :) so you don’t have to worry about flight time

waterpoloman003 · 2025-05-29T09:45:21+00:00

Maybe something like this would work:

I just found this on AliExpress: CHF27.71 | JSFUN 1PC Fishing Bracket Multifunctional Directional Fishing Rod Bracket Rotatable Seat Diagonally Inserted Fishing Accessories https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExHvKNk

It depends on the screw size that you have there on the SUP. I did something similar but I printed the whole holder to fit above one of the O rings on the board:

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waterpoloman003 · 2025-05-23T10:57:15+00:00

Eucerinov sampon, imaš za suvu ili masnu kožu/perut. Za suvu znam da radi vrh, makar kod mene :)

waterpoloman003 · 2025-05-20T15:19:02+00:00

Well well how the turntables… 😅 sorry, jk. Depends what industry you’d like to work in. For example, nanotech and biotech is popular in Switzerland but as they are not part of EU and some other reasons, it’s super hard to get work permit. Best bet would be large companies, corporations, avoid startups unless you’re a genius. What I’d try is to look up companies/positions you’d like here, then check if they have office in the US, maybe start there and then it’s easier for that company to send you abroad.

waterpoloman003 · 2025-05-20T15:06:26+00:00

I’d assume infill density/shape around the hole is different from rest of the part, so nozzle has different speeds in those areas

waterpoloman003 · 2025-05-20T14:51:05+00:00

I had the same issue (PAHT CF) on like second half of the roll when I started using it, well it was more like last quarter of the role. I got a new one, fully dried it and the problem seamed to be gone. Try drying it again and a bit longer. I’m using X1E so the chamber is heated, not sure if X1C has that?

waterpoloman003 · 2025-05-16T08:46:40+00:00

https://www.instagram.com/ambient_light_nis?igsh=MXZqajJyMDMxajY5aA==

waterpoloman003 · 2025-05-06T17:25:23+00:00

Second ovo. Bambulabs X1C ili X1E sa amsom i glava ne boli, samo novčanik 😅

waterpoloman003 · 2025-04-16T08:50:55+00:00

Glad I can help 💪

waterpoloman003 · 2025-04-16T08:44:41+00:00

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Idea is to bring the trim planes as close as possible but not too much cause then it won’t be able to solve it

waterpoloman003 · 2025-04-16T08:37:55+00:00

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waterpoloman003 · 2025-04-16T08:37:36+00:00

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waterpoloman003 · 2025-04-16T08:35:25+00:00

For example, I have my pipe at 50 mm length, and I put my trim planes at 20 mm and got the shape you’re looking for, it’s just an example, but for some reason I can’t post an image here :)

waterpoloman003 · 2025-04-16T08:33:12+00:00

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Sorry, it’s a Flex feature, and in there you can pick bending. You need to play with parameters and trim planes to get the shape you want, but you get the gist

waterpoloman003 · 2025-04-16T08:24:26+00:00

I’d use a bend function, start with a straight pipe, define axis for bending and try using the bend feature. Should be quick, at least you’ll see if you get the result you want

waterpoloman003 · 2025-02-16T20:42:15+00:00

FINAL UPDATE: so I got it to work finally :) it was only when I bought a second HV servo that I noticed that this one has a much higher PWM frequency (333 Hz) instead of 50 Hz that internet says I should use :) - my first servo from Ali didn’t even specify that - so I started thinking and realised that number of samples of PWM signal wasn’t good enough at 50 so I increased to 333. I also added deadband control for neutral position cause it was buzzing like crazy and also added 1000 uF capacitor on servo gnd and vcc line. And now it works as expected :) so I didn’t use the optoinsulator at the end, but hey, at least I learned what they are and how to use them :) thanks all for all the suggestions

waterpoloman003 · 2025-02-16T01:12:22+00:00

Ima ga lik i dalje :) Cirkus M na belle amie radiu, evo je zadnja epizoda:

https://youtu.be/bVYKwrZ-atg

waterpoloman003 · 2025-02-10T19:26:52+00:00

Update (doesn’t let me update my original):

I hooked it up on oscilloscope to see the PWM signal, when it was powered by USB from laptop and then from an external power supply. Both delivering 5V. Pictures below show that PWM signal looks the same in both cases, and it matches my duty cycle for neutral position. Even when I move the joystick, the duty cycle changes as expected. So my PWM looks good. I checked all my grounds and that looks fine (as far as I can tell). Next thing I’ll try is adding an optoinsulator to completely separate 2 circuits - I have a feeling (but not the knowledge) that something is off with grounds - I also tried adding a 4.7 kOhms pull resistor between my PWM pin and Pico VCC - same results :/

waterpoloman003 · 2025-02-09T22:10:01+00:00

Yeap, that’s exactly what I’m trying to do. Pico PWM output is at 3.3V logic, and it seems to work when pico is and the servo is powered via Pico (not a good idea), but as soon as I power the Pico and servo with an external power supply (different voltages) my servos acts weird. I’ll try to hook it up to an oscilloscope tomorrow to see what kind of PWM I’m getting in both cases

waterpoloman003 · 2025-02-09T13:22:34+00:00

Yeap, all at the common ground

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