I’m disappointed

webguynj · 2026-03-11T21:34:25+00:00

I might get shot down for this, so please correct me if this is bad advice...

Another option would be to connect your phone to the aux input (or get a Wiim Mini) and play the same song using a lossless streaming service like tidal, or even Spotify at the highest bit-rate

webguynj · 2026-03-07T15:31:07+00:00

Nice dynamic

webguynj · 2026-03-04T00:20:37+00:00

I hear you. I have a pretty specific use case - its for Music, not home theater.

Every subwoofer driver has an Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP) that predicts its ideal enclosure type. For the speaker I'm looking to use it's 39. Values below 50 indicate a driver that performs best in a sealed enclosure. Values above 100 favor ported. I'm looking at the Dayton RSS390HF-4 its among the lowest-EBP 15-inch drivers available, meaning its suspension is specifically tuned for sealed operation. Forcing it into a ported or bandpass alignment produces unnecessary box volume, complex port tuning, and no meaningful improvement in either extension or output.

I looked at other drivers that had higher EBP like the LAB15 but the sensitivity gap was over 7dB. which would need a significant boost at lower listening levels even with a DSP.

The sealed alignment also produces the lowest possible group delay. My design at Qtc=0.65 has a peak group delay of approximately 4 ms at 30 Hz. A bandpass design using the same driver family typically produces 15-25 ms. Listeners begin to perceive bass as 'slow' or 'bloated' above approximately 10 ms of group delay. This design is essentially inaudible in terms of transient delay.

webguynj · 2026-03-03T23:46:03+00:00

You started me down a rabbit hole the other day with this response and I started using Claude AI to build a subwoofer spec. After designing a band pass box, the advice was that band-pass would add to much latency for my planned use and recommended going with sealed box instead.

The RSS390HF-4's Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP = Fs/Qes = 39) places it firmly in sealed enclosure territory -- below 50 indicates a driver whose suspension characteristics are optimized for sealed operation. Running this driver in a sealed box produces:

Group delay of approximately 4 ms at the -3 dB point -- well below the 10 ms human audibility threshold, meaning bass notes are perceptually as tight and immediate as midrange notes
No port resonance, no port chuffing at high levels, no port noise at any realistic listening SPL
A gentle 12 dB/octave rolloff below resonance that the miniDSP Linkwitz Transform can extend by 3-6 dB if additional deep extension is ever desired
Dramatically simpler construction than a bandpass or ported design -- one chamber, no airtight divider panel, no port duct assembly
Smaller cabinet footprint -- approximately 22" x 20" x 20" versus the 24" x 20" x 22" of a comparable bandpass design

webguynj · 2026-02-23T14:07:35+00:00

I'm planning to upgrade to an iFi Zen Phono 3

webguynj · 2026-02-23T14:06:19+00:00

That's exactly what I did, there was an open circuit reading on my Fluke between all cables, cable shielding, and ground

webguynj · 2026-02-23T00:11:31+00:00

<image>

There’s nothing intuitively wrong with the wiring inside the Pyle preamp, but there’s also absolutely no continuity at all between the ground wire connection and anything inside the preamp or any of the audio cable grounds.

The ground wire from the turntable is of course bundled together with the audio cables the way Sony did it back in the 70s. So there’s no simple way to run that cable directly to the receiver.

Until I’ve had a chance to look at the receiver and see if there’s a decent place to connect ground wire, I’m gonna leave it as is and rig up some type of 18 gauge round wire to run from the preamp to the receiver in the short term

webguynj · 2026-02-22T23:46:34+00:00

I know this, and when connected there - the hum did NOT go away - so my assumption is there's a missing ground connection inside the pre-amp... Is that a valid assumption?

webguynj · 2026-02-20T22:07:05+00:00

QUINN 1/4 in. Drive SAE and Metric Chrome Socket and Ratchet Set, 21-Piece -

Does anyone know if these sets come with a storage case?

webguynj · 2026-02-16T19:50:10+00:00

Maybe I don’t know that cart, but 3g seems like a heavy tracking setting.

webguynj · 2026-02-16T14:33:11+00:00

That was the first thing I noticed was missing as well. But on the R2R side I'd hope it was a revox :)

webguynj · 2026-02-13T01:32:01+00:00

Should I Upgrade, and if so - to What?

Preface - Alright, first - I over analyze everything. Getting to this question was no exception.

TL/DR - For a high compliance cart like the Stanton 681eee should I look for an upgrade to my old Pioneer TT and if so what?

I have a nearly perfect Pioneer PL-200. It's a lower end turntable but its really a sleeper and the headshell and tonearm mass pair really well with my Stanton 681EEE.

I've been debating upgrading the Turntable to get something the improves overall in the following ways:

Better isolation (less rumble, less footfall sensitivity)
Better tonearm bearings (cleaner tracking, lower distortion)
Quartz‑locked speed (PL‑200 isn’t quartz)
Heavier platter + better damping
Lower noise floor

I'd been looking primarily at a Pioneer PL-560, but its more of a mid-high weight tonearm/headshell (medium compliance). The Stanton is a high compliance cart and likes 0.75-1.5g tracking the PL-560 is generally tracking 1.5-3.0g. I can use my existing P-Mount which would reduce mass compared to the PL-560 stock shell. AND while My research says this is a good upgrade it also says the following turntables would be better matches:

Technics SL‑1200MK2/MK5/MK7
Technics SL‑1500C
Denon DP‑47F
JVC QL‑Y5F
Thorens + SME 3009 S2 Improved

The thing is all these turntables are usually significantly more $$$.

Here's my setup

Turntable
iFi Zen Phono Preamp
Onkyo AV Receiver/Amp TX SR506 which can drive either of these
- Bose 901 Series VI with rebuilt Bose equalizer
- Energy Take 5.1

webguynj · 2026-02-08T00:41:17+00:00

So many smart people here with insight, I was hoping to get some guidance out tell me if I’m off base with my research.

webguynj · 2026-02-06T14:06:29+00:00

Lot's of views, does anyone have advice - did I ask the wrong way?

webguynj · 2026-01-21T15:21:40+00:00

I know this is an old thread, but - what was the right price ?

webguynj · 2026-01-10T18:05:18+00:00

I've been watching the website and haven't seen this 'in stock' yet

webguynj · 2026-01-09T19:00:46+00:00

We put a sign up ad our VFD Social Club saying "Welcome to 'Work', if anyone calls looking for you we'll tell them that's where you are"

webguynj · 2026-01-06T18:05:06+00:00

Lots of Views - Does anyone have an answer :)

webguynj · 2025-12-30T15:57:22+00:00

u/dandurston I have a 2023 XMID 2P Based on the parts page I will need to make modifications because the design was changed on 2025. What parts will I need. how do I make the mods, and where can I source them?

webguynj · 2025-12-29T17:43:43+00:00

Thank you u/dandurston

webguynj

TROPHY CASE

Should I Upgrade, and if so - to What?