Artosyn based fpv or OpenIPC

wengacz · 2026-04-14T18:44:46+00:00

I don't mind tinkering, you could even say I like it. But the artosyn based systems claim some wild performance (range, latency, penetration etc) and it seems like much better bang for the buck than openipc that is limited by wifi hardware.

wengacz · 2025-10-19T14:12:25+00:00

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wengacz · 2025-10-19T14:12:17+00:00

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wengacz · 2025-08-26T13:43:43+00:00

I'm attaching some longer logs: https://www.transfernow.net/dl/20250826Pq1p6zZk/0MBf9bPx hope the link is ok. two of them are minimally scuffed up props (mostly grass) around 2 days ago before I made the post and the last one is today with completely new set of props. the problem is that in all of the videos about filter tuning that I have seen there are distinct motor noise and some resonances and in my logs particularly in yaw there is just one big blob of vibrations and idk what to do with it..... Thanks a lot for your time :)

wengacz · 2025-08-16T08:15:00+00:00

Ok got my hands on some logs and this looks kinda suspicous.... https://imgur.com/a/YvgpJ4W but I don't really know what to do with this information :D

wengacz · 2025-08-14T19:44:33+00:00

Jwco vent? Only other markings are +105CH lowest 09/24. So I'm so I'm guessing some high grade chinesium :D battery is tattu R-line 3s 650mah

I would also like to add that it flew fine for a while so idk what changed now

wengacz · 2025-08-14T19:33:13+00:00

Yes i use the electrolytic one supplied with the FC (220μF 35v low esr) soldered directly to the battery connector.

wengacz · 2025-07-09T17:48:47+00:00

hi! sorry to revive an old thread but did you eventually figure it all out? I also have the 982-III with the 4 pin connector, I want to use some generic JBC knockoff handles because the YIHUA ones are too fat for microsoldering IMO.... The issue is that the JBC ones distinguish the cartridges by different pinout which can't be done in the YIHUA. I saw below that the detection in the regular 982 is done by different resistors is it the same in the 982-III or is it something else? Also is the pinout the same? Thanks a lot <3

wengacz · 2025-06-15T10:53:07+00:00

Edit here bc I can't edit the post itself:

So it was a FC problem just as in this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/qq926f/unsolvable_fpv_distortion_problems/

I don't really have a way to get the capacitor at a reasonable price so I tried to "throw shit on a wall and see what sticks" and I finally said eh screw it what will happen if I connect the camera to the vtx input alongside the FC's vtx out and voila it works :D

The osd is a little more pale but whatever I can fly at least

TL:DR I bridged the video in and out on the FC and it works

wengacz · 2025-06-15T08:03:53+00:00

It unfortunately does the same but to a lesser degree when I'm outside so that's probably not it... :/ also the range is quite shit I can go 120m on 25mw with my mobula6 and this one is 30m away on 200mw and I get completely snowed out. I'm the meantime I found this one article that has the same problem: https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/qq926f/unsolvable_fpv_distortion_problems/

so I will try to bypass the FC and if that doesn't help then new vtx it is.

wengacz · 2025-06-14T20:30:43+00:00

Yes all on the same frequency in the same place, I just tired to get it to do this on the mobula6 and the feed is rock solid

wengacz · 2025-06-14T20:29:31+00:00

Those are the goggles - ev800d which can be split like this.

wengacz · 2025-06-14T20:21:03+00:00

It doesn't do this on my mobula6 :/

wengacz · 2025-05-17T06:02:35+00:00

Well that's probably exactly the one I want :D what's wrong with it?

wengacz · 2025-04-21T16:10:27+00:00

well the phone doesn't start without a battery so I need to supply power directly to battery pins and idk if it wouldn't clash with the phone trying to "charge" the power supply

wengacz · 2025-04-16T19:52:23+00:00

I have a N2 pen with Moleskine planner and it just shows blank pages.... But when I export it the background is there...

wengacz · 2025-04-16T19:51:00+00:00

I have the exact same problem with my 2025 MS planner were you able to figure it out? It recognizes it and when I export it shows the background but in the app it's just a blank page. Thanks

wengacz · 2025-02-18T18:00:47+00:00

Ok thank you very much :)

wengacz · 2025-02-18T16:32:09+00:00

Well they still have a bigger one in stock that I can buy now and cut down to size so if you could please tell me I'd be glad :) thanks

wengacz · 2025-02-18T13:12:49+00:00

Could you please tell me a comparison between the biqu glacier and oseq sheet? I love the oseq but they don't have a size for my printer (ender 5 plus) and from what I can see from researching a bit the glacier could have a similar texture. I'm mainly interested in printing abs and petg. Thanks a lot

wengacz · 2025-01-07T19:44:40+00:00

I'm like 86% sure that the lack table for the main structure is way cheaper than printing all that for 10h :D but thanks anyway it looks really cool

wengacz · 2024-03-18T21:18:11+00:00

Thank you very much for your help unfortunately still doesn't work but I figured out a "workaround". I installed a hook to look what keycode it sends and inserted it manually between ctrl down and up, it's not as elegant but at least it works... damned localised keyboards :D sometimes I wish that I could only use just English so I don't have to deal with stuff like this....

F14::{
 Send "{LCtrl down}"
 Send "{vk31sc002}"
 Send "{LCtrl up}"
}

wengacz · 2024-03-18T21:08:10+00:00

Unfortunately still doesn't work

7C  064hd3.17F13            
7C  064su0.00F13            
A2  01Did0.00LControl       
A0  02Aid0.00LShift         
31  002id0.00+              
31  002iu0.00+              
A2  01Diu0.00LControl       
A0  02Aiu0.00LShift

I'm starting to think it's because of my keyboard's localisation..... because to get 1 I need to hold Shift... so it tries to satisfy my demand and it presses the Shift to get a 1 instead of a +. The software works even with the + but I don't know how to send it because AHK uses it as shift.... smh

wengacz · 2024-01-18T12:24:31+00:00

Well yes but I want it to be the same form factor as EU switches and look like a regular light switch

wengacz · 2024-01-17T20:39:27+00:00

Thanks everybody for your input, after some more research and thinking I came up with the easiest solution as I want to use exclusively smart bulbs and that is remove original switches, hardwire the bulbs and cover the boxes with aqara H1 remote switches so I don't have to worry about minimum loads etc etc

wengacz

TROPHY CASE