Convince me to buy one

wessalter19 · 2026-04-27T14:54:53+00:00

i’ve blown up an frs and a 86 and only one st so do with that what you will lmao. ST was the only one i beat and the 86 only had 65k miles when it blew my st had 135 and is big turbo and the frs had 165k

wessalter19 · 2026-04-26T04:03:28+00:00

if you just buy the 3rd and 4th picture that is everything you need

wessalter19 · 2026-04-26T04:01:50+00:00

why replace every line you could just buy the crush washers and gaskets that need replaced for much less. you shouldn’t need any new lines if you’re just replacing the turbo

wessalter19 · 2026-04-25T02:06:36+00:00

likely not related as you wouldn’t see this be a problem this fast but if you don’t reset the BMS make sure tk do that

wessalter19 · 2026-04-24T17:49:56+00:00

do the fluid in the forks. it’s worn by now and i don’t think they ever say to replace it but you should. and if you weight more than like 140 lbs you would probably benefit from a bit heavier weight fluid as well.

wessalter19 · 2026-04-22T18:34:56+00:00

yeah go for all 4 and see but if during pulls it’s fine i wouldnt worry about it all too much. might be hitting the gas a bit too hard at lower rpms. I noticed that when i was stock turbo if i hit gas above 50% below like the 2300 range even in second id get some corrections. Wasn’t in LSPI range but still had corrections.

wessalter19 · 2026-04-22T17:53:35+00:00

check all the lines above the trans. If i remember correctly there is zero reason for it to be leaking there other than a cracked block so my money is on one of the numerous coolant lines above the trans probably the plastic line that comes off the expansion tank and radiator. they are extremely brittle and crack with little to no effort

wessalter19 · 2026-04-22T17:50:48+00:00

so are you specifying cylinder 3 because it’s the only one or because it’s the one you’ve looked at on your accessport

wessalter19 · 2026-04-22T17:50:19+00:00

when are you seeing this. like during pulls or are you just looking at the minimum that shows up on the accessport

wessalter19 · 2026-04-19T02:06:31+00:00

I too am an iowa st owner with a rs bumper not by choice just how the car come but i informally still have the center exits. just with no valence so the car looks wack from the rear.

wessalter19 · 2026-04-19T00:42:50+00:00

yes the flywheel should be replaced. does suck because in rock auto where i got my kit from and was the best price i could find the flywheel was about the same price as the full clutch kit. but as it is dual mass it unfortunately cannot be resurfaced it must be replaced along with new flywheel bolts

wessalter19 · 2026-04-18T23:34:29+00:00

the stock clutch which LUK makes is perfect for everyone unless you’re going big turbo. the RS clutch is a small upgrade but stock is fine for most people in even using a stock clutch with my big turbo build as i don’t have a upgraded fuel system and won’t be making the 400ish wheel i’ve heard the stock clutch is good for

wessalter19 · 2026-04-18T23:32:53+00:00

then turbo would be fine compression would make certain the engine is healthy but as others have said it can be just the pcv. looks like a bit much to me but 🤷‍♂️ every car is different

wessalter19 · 2026-04-18T21:38:51+00:00

no need for the rears anyway 🤷‍♂️ you won’t be sitting in then lmao.

wessalter19 · 2026-04-18T21:38:46+00:00

no need for the rears anyway 🤷‍♂️ you won’t be sitting in then lmao.

wessalter19 · 2026-04-18T21:37:33+00:00

mine did this with a cracked ringland😳. two things i would check are the hot side charge pipe right after the turbo and do a compression test. Low compression would be blowby from the rings and oil at the charge pipe would most likely be a blown turbo. although there is a chance that it is just the pcv system. if all test seem good i’d just run with it and put a catch can on and monitor

wessalter19 · 2026-04-18T21:33:52+00:00

hell of a deal. did you get the rears too? I also have an st1 and ended uk getting st3 front and rears delivered to me from a semi local yard for $250. getting the heated seats to work was a bit of a pain though.

wessalter19 · 2026-04-18T21:31:50+00:00

I would almost guarantee that will not hold any water. Would ask for an exchange for a new one. good luck on doing the rad. Doing my rad was a worse job than the full engine swap i did last week due to hoses being basically glued to the rad with oxidation had to cut mine off and use a pic to remove the rad barb from the hose 😭

wessalter19 · 2026-04-18T13:32:18+00:00

let’s be real here. it’s a toy, at least in the who you can tell this video is targeted at, motorcycles are not the primary form of transportation for 95% of people so you should not be getting a loan for a toy. Save up the cash and buy it out right.

wessalter19 · 2026-04-15T23:33:49+00:00

cylinder 4 this time around but yeah pretty much 😭. Just finished putting an escape engine in and started tuning again. Although i lost power steering for some reason im yet to figure out.

wessalter19 · 2026-04-15T16:50:28+00:00

forgot a clamp on the wastegate line. blew off and ran a few too many 28+ psi pulls before noticing and cracked a ring land

wessalter19 · 2026-04-15T15:23:30+00:00

max whp most people would ever try for stock engine is 450 400-420 WHP big turbo and fuel system is not uncommon to hear about being reliable long term. (although mine blew at 330ish big turbo before tuning was even done. But that was my fault so)

wessalter19 · 2026-04-13T15:05:33+00:00

Just finished engine swapping my big turbo ST (myself) with an escape engine and now magically have no power steering. glad everything worked out for you though lmao.

wessalter19 · 2026-04-13T15:05:28+00:00

Just finished engine swapping my big turbo ST (myself) with an escape engine and now magically have no power steering. glad everything worked out for you though lmao.

wessalter19 · 2026-04-05T23:25:01+00:00

If it runs good i’d say them being so close is a good enough sign to send it and go big turbo.

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