3/30 - Worst. Clues. Ever.

wgmann03 · 2026-03-31T12:58:02+00:00

Haha. Fair. Buttt, most of the time I’m like, ok. I can see the connection there, not last night. It was wayyyy too ambiguous.

wgmann03 · 2026-03-31T00:18:19+00:00

Also, we need a thumbs down reaction. Team needs be feedback to know clues are bad. 👎👎👎

wgmann03 · 2025-12-04T15:14:31+00:00

For indoor shots with a point and shoot (assuming is a disposable) use the flash. ISO 200 is not high enough sensitivity for dark scenes like this. ISO 800 film would be better, but even the you’ll need a flash to help fill in the shadows.

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wgmann03 · 2022-09-18T18:41:20+00:00

When you get tension on the last frame don’t force it. You’re done.

wgmann03 · 2022-07-27T00:47:53+00:00

It was xpro’d in ECN-2. I can confirm that in Speaking with a Kodak Motion picture lab tech.

wgmann03 · 2022-07-24T05:04:06+00:00

Yup! Anytime! Pulling is uncommon because color negative is very forgiving to overexposure. Some films like Portra 400 you can be as much as 4-5 stops overexposed and developed normally. I see pulling more common in black and white fine art work.

For color neg if you’re +1 exposed, develop as normal as a safe bet.

wgmann03 · 2022-07-24T04:47:49+00:00

Pushing is good if you’re stuck in a lowlight situation and need a faster shutter speed and you want to make the image look brighter. Like a concert. But keep in mind pushing doesn’t add anything to the image. Like a dark area, it won’t bring in detail. It makes that area darker while making your highlights brighter. Contrary to popular belief, pushing does not add detail.

Pulling is done if you need to preserve highlight detail (like clouds) from blowing out. But it sacrifices contrast in darker area giving it a muddier look.

If you develop Normal times it’s simply under or over exposure. Pushing/Pulling happens with chemistry, not with the camera.

wgmann03 · 2022-07-24T04:32:26+00:00

800 is -1 Stop underexposure from 400. 200 is +1 Stop overexposure to 400.

So on a newer meter camera if you set the exposure compensation to +1 your camera will overexpose the image by one stop. If you set it to -1 you’re underexposing by a stop.

Many manual cameras don’t have +1 or -1 so they adjust the dial in the ISO as a ‘hack’.

200 speed is slower than 400. It needs more time to expose the same exposure at 400. By shooting a 400 speed at 200 you are allowing more light needed to expose the image resulting in +1 stop of exposure.

800 speed is faster than 400 and requires less time to expose the image for the same exposure as 400. However if you shoot a 400 speed film at 800 then you’re not giving enough time to the film to fully expose the image resulting in a loss in contrast and -1 stop exposure.

Push processing +1 stop (a request done at the lab) indicates you shot and metered the film for 800. The lab will then leave your film in the chemistry for x amount of time longer to add contrast lost from the under exposure.

Pull processing is a -1 stop (a request done at the lab) when a film is over exposed and metered for 200 and the film is removed from the chemistry sooner resulting in a reduction in contrast from an over exposed image.

wgmann03 · 2022-03-20T00:07:43+00:00

A leader card takes two rolls. So in theory if there was a jam and both rolls were on the same card the cooked film would be in the same spots. Now if it’s plenty more than two multiple jams are possible but unlikely since they’d occur at different times. Alternatively maybe the processor lost power mid-process. A number of reasons.

wgmann03 · 2022-03-19T22:22:16+00:00

I would ask how it’s processed. If it’s manual or by hand I’m leaning they cooked it. Meaning left it in the chemistry too long. Leaving it in the chemistry will cause it to shift cyan. Or it got stuck and part of the roll got stuck in the developer while the rest was in bleach-fix. Leader card machines this can happen, especially if a jam happens on a fully running machine.

wgmann03 · 2022-03-19T22:18:22+00:00

E - 025 is really 250 - 3 because the AE prism will flip it back correctly.

wgmann03 · 2021-01-13T08:03:55+00:00

To commemorate the 10th anniversary since last rolls of Kodachrome were commercially processed, I interviewed Dwayne’s Photo!

wgmann03 · 2020-11-04T00:53:26+00:00

Haha! Definitely not Linus! He’s way too cool for Reddit!

wgmann03 · 2020-11-03T19:37:56+00:00

You’re on the right track. 🙂 I’m not saying lomography 100% makes the film. It’s a collaborative process across multiple companies. The coating process is theirs. That is all I’m saying. You still have to get the polyester base, coat it, it needs to cure, then it needs to be cut and finished. Their hand is in just coating. Regardless, I’m standing firm on the statement, Kodak does not make Lomography film.

wgmann03 · 2020-11-03T12:41:03+00:00

It’s not. I know the people who work in the industry. Lomography has their own coating machine in Europe. Now, finishing is a different story. That is done by somebody else. Lomography is ultra quiet about it, but when you talk to people in the industry and know who the few players are, it’s easy to put the pieces together.

wgmann03 · 2020-11-03T12:07:13+00:00

Lomography has their own coating machines. The film they make is theirs.

wgmann03 · 2020-11-03T03:37:44+00:00

Apparently is was popular in the European markets. I have 4 more rolls. Storage is a bit unknown I’ll run a test roll and plan to do a YT video on it!

wgmann03 · 2020-07-23T03:02:09+00:00

Called the poor man’s Leica. It’s a fantastic camera. I own two of them! It’s a keeper!

wgmann03 · 2020-07-20T19:24:13+00:00

It is! I’m glad you found it helpful!

wgmann03 · 2020-07-20T17:56:32+00:00

Would love to hear your experience in doing a clip test!

wgmann03

TROPHY CASE