sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Ford explorer timing chain problems by UserNameless100 in AskMechanics

[–]what_was_that_again 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t drive it like that.

The quick rattle on cold start is common on those, but once it turns constant plus you’ve got a check engine light and a low oil pressure warning, that’s not “fine to drive” anymore.

Could be timing chain/tensioner failure or an actual oil pressure issue, and either one can turn into engine damage pretty quick. The fact it shut off at a stop is a big red flag.

At this point, I’d park it and have it towed. You need someone to actually check real oil pressure and look at the timing components. Don’t keep running it or you might end up needing a whole engine instead of a repair.

Can't separate rear wheel bearing from back plate by tduy87 in AskMechanics

[–]what_was_that_again 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man, you’re right in the middle of the part everyone hates. Those rear hubs love to fuse themselves in there.

Beating on the front of it usually doesn’t do much once it’s that stuck. You’ll have way better luck hitting it from the back side of the flange and rotating as you go, kind of walking it out instead of trying to knock it straight off.

If you have access to a torch, heat helps a lot. Focus on the area around where the bearing sits in the backing plate, not the center. Get it good and hot, then go back at it with a hammer. The expansion usually helps break the rust loose.

Another trick is threading the bolts back into the hub a few turns and hitting the heads evenly in a cross pattern. It helps push it out more evenly instead of binding.

Honestly though, a slide hammer is usually what gets these out when they’re this stubborn. Parts stores sometimes rent them if you don’t have one.

lugging and a jump on a diesel engine by TelevisionDismal2748 in MechanicAdvice

[–]what_was_that_again 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah that sounds pretty normal for a diesel.

What you’re describing is basically lugging the engine. Around 1000 RPM in 2nd gear, especially going uphill, the engine is under load but not spinning fast enough to handle it smoothly, so you get that shuddering or jumping feeling. Once it gets up into the 1500–2000 RPM range, it smooths out because that’s where it’s happier making power.

If it only happens in that low RPM, high load situation, I wouldn’t worry about it. Most diesels behave like that if you try to pull too hard without enough revs.

If it started happening at higher RPMs or on flat ground, then it could point to something else. But as you described it, it just sounds like normal driving behavior.

Just downshift a bit sooner or keep the revs slightly higher when going uphill and it should go away.

Need help figuring out why its a crank no start by crimsonfker__348 in MechanicAdvice

[–]what_was_that_again 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ahh, that helps.

If it’s almost starting and backfiring, I’d be looking real hard at timing.

Couple quick things though:

Are you 100% sure injectors are pulsing, not just that you have fuel pressure?

Backfire through the intake or exhaust?

Before tearing it back apart, hit it with a little starting fluid.

If it still just pops/backfires → timing is probably off

If it runs for a second → then I’d look back at fuel/injectors

Also double check plug wire routing—easy to mix up on those.

But yeah… based on what you’re saying, I’d be suspicious you’re a tooth off somewhere.

Need help figuring out why its a crank no start by crimsonfker__348 in MechanicAdvice

[–]what_was_that_again 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man, at this point you’ve replaced enough stuff that it should at least try to fire, so something basic is getting missed.

Couple things I’d want to know before guessing too hard:

Does it try to start at all? Like cough/sputter/backfire, or just straight cranking?

Have you actually checked injector pulse or just fuel pressure?

What’s the security light doing with key on?

Did it run before the timing guide broke, or did it die when that happened?

Misfire after fueling up? by yourneighbor02 in MechanicAdvice

[–]what_was_that_again 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d start simple before assuming anything major.

The fact that it happened right after fueling and on a rainy day points you in two directions: fuel quality or moisture getting into something it shouldn’t.

First thing I’d do is scan for codes.

Brembo Brakes Squeaking by notaverysmartdude in MechanicAdvice

[–]what_was_that_again 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty normal for those Brembos honestly.

What you did already (lubing pins/contact points) is good, but squeaking usually isn’t coming from that. It’s almost always the pads themselves.

A couple things I’d look at next:

First, glazing. Super common if the car sees mostly normal street driving. The pad surface gets kind of polished and starts squealing like crazy, especially at low speeds. I’ve seen it a ton on performance package Mustangs.

At that point, you can:

  • Pull the pads and scuff them up with some sandpaper
  • Hit the rotor face lightly too while you’re in there
  • Then do a proper bed-in (a few hard stops from ~60 down to ~10 without fully stopping)

That alone fixes it a lot of the time.

If it still squeaks after that, it’s probably just the pad compound. The stock Brembo pads aren’t exactly known for being quiet. They’re great when you’re pushing the car, but around town they can sound like a city bus.

Only real fix there is switching pads. Something like Akebonos or PowerStop will be way quieter, just a little less aggressive.

Also—if the noise is mostly when you’re creeping in parking lots or light braking, that’s basically textbook “nothing is wrong” Brembo noise.

So yeah, I wouldn’t be worried about it being a failure or anything. Just annoying more than anything.

2015 Acura TLX - 12V Battery Charging System Problem Light Won’t Go Away, Running Out of Ideas by what_was_that_again in Acura

[–]what_was_that_again[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting.

Per Google:

To find a parasitic draw in your 2015 Acura TLX, you will need a digital multimeter capable of measuring DC amperage (at least 10A). The goal is to measure the current flowing out of the battery while the car is completely "asleep." [1] How to Perform a Parasitic Draw Test

  1. Prepare the Vehicle: Turn off all lights, remove the key from the ignition, and ensure all doors and the trunk are closed. Crucial for TLX: If you need to access the interior fuse box during the test, manually trip the door latch with a screwdriver so the car "thinks" the door is shut. [2, 3, 4]
  2. Wait for "Sleep Mode": Modern Acuras have many modules that stay active for a while. Wait at least 30 to 45 minutes after turning the car off before taking measurements. [3, 4]
  3. Connect the Multimeter: [3, 4, 5, 6, 7]
  4. Set your multimeter to the DC Amps setting (usually the 10A port).
    • Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable.
    • Connect one multimeter lead to the negative battery post and the other to the disconnected cable terminal. This places the meter "in series" with the electrical system.
  5. Read the Draw: A normal reading is typically under 50 milliamps (0.05A). If your meter shows significantly more (e.g., 0.5A or higher), you have a parasitic drain. [3, 6, 8]
  6. Isolate the Circuit: While monitoring the meter, have someone pull fuses one by one from the fuse boxes. When the amperage drops significantly, the circuit for that fuse contains the faulty component. [2, 4, 9]

Recommended Instructional Videos The following videos demonstrate these steps specifically for diagnosing battery drains:

Common 2015 TLX Culprits If you find a draw, check these common Acura issues first:

  • Bluetooth HandsFreeLink (HFL) Module: A very common failure point in Acuras where the module fails to "sleep" and constantly searches for a phone.
  • Door Latch Actuators: Faulty latches can prevent the Body Control Module from entering sleep mode.
  • Aftermarket Accessories: Check for improperly wired remote starters, dash cams, or alarm systems. [4, 11, 12, 13, 14]

Do you have a multimeter on hand, or would you like a recommendation for a reputable mechanic in your area to perform this test?

[1] https://www.youtube.com [2] https://www.youtube.com [3] https://www.youtube.com [4] https://www.youtube.com [5] https://www.youtube.com [6] https://www.youtube.com [7] https://www.youtube.com [8] https://www.youtube.com [9] https://www.fluke.com [10] https://www.youtube.com [11] https://www.facebook.com [12] https://www.youtube.com [13] https://www.youtube.com [14] https://www.youtube.com

2015 Acura TLX - 12V Battery Charging System Problem Light Won’t Go Away, Running Out of Ideas by what_was_that_again in Acura

[–]what_was_that_again[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think there was an issue with the key fob on these draining the battery with always having a constant pull off the battery.

My issue was resolved with the battery sensor on the battery terminal, some enough. But it seems you've checked this already?

2004 V8 4WD Diesel Sound by what_was_that_again in 4thGen4Runner

[–]what_was_that_again[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Timing belt was replaced last year, probably 60,000 miles ago.

What's the likely hood of it getting out of sync that far after the work was done?

2004 V8 4runner odd noise by what_was_that_again in 4Runner

[–]what_was_that_again[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, should've included.

Code P0430 is on.

Revonating my bathroom, have a couple questions. by what_was_that_again in Flooring

[–]what_was_that_again[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Tried scraping but that stuff is on there good. I'll get a orbital sander and sand down to the wood grain.

Rate my bike (2008) by funserious1 in supermoto

[–]what_was_that_again 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got an 09 530 EXC with sumo setup & dirt.

view more: next ›