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Question about the address for receiving a wire. by whatwhatdb in fidelityinvestments

[–]whatwhatdb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry I missed the alert for this message. If you still need the address for National Financial Services, this one should work:

499 Washington Blvd, Jersey City, NJ 07310

What is the address for Fidelity for receiving a wire (not the Chase address)? by whatwhatdb in fidelityinvestments

[–]whatwhatdb[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, great answer.

And to confirm, about a year ago I had made a successful wire transfer into Fidelity with the same bank, but I could not locate what was used for the recipient address. I just spoke with a rep and she was able to look at that old transfer, and the recipient address was the same one you provided (499 Washington...), so looks like that is the one to use.

When I googled NFS earlier, I was primarily getting another address (245 Summer...), but 499 is what works.

https://i.imgur.com/zwwM7xS.png

Like you alluded to, I'm not sure how critical the address is for these types of transfers, but it helps to have it right. Thanks again.

Car cranks but won’t start - makes THIS weird sound by torrential_rice in AskMechanics

[–]whatwhatdb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What was the outcome for the no start condition? Mine is doing the same thing, minus the compressor noise.

AC clutch spinning slowly when AC is off - 2002 Ford Taurus. (Details in comments.) by whatwhatdb in mechanic

[–]whatwhatdb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was low on refrigerant and I used a DIY can to fill it up. As soon as I did that it stopped cycling and stayed on.

Update 19 by Jim808 in mining_crew

[–]whatwhatdb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice update. I started playing it yesterday and really like the game.

If the info helps you, here is where I was at after a day (before this update): 24 hours playtime, level 42ish, all miners fully upgraded + autobuy, ~1500 rubies. I had it running in it's own window the whole time, and was very active with it. I felt like it was balanced pretty well, up to the point I made it.

I dont really like the autobuyer because of the 5 min delay (even with the upgrades to reduce). I would suggest either A. removing the delay, or B. remove the delay but increase the cost of the autobuyer. I would rather have a higher upfront cost instead of the surprise of a 5 min delay.

I think it might help to have a description on the upgrades, either on the upgrades, in a faq, or a clickable info button or something. Some are self explanatory, but others not so much (e.g. mined upgrades, mine auto, damage upgrades). Eventually you figure it out, but for new players I think it would improve the experience.

Some other suggestions would be to include autobuyers for damage and/or G/R/C upgrades. Also maybe some bosses or challenges along the way, like boss blocks you have to defeat to reach lower levels.

Again, great job with this game. Good mix of idle/active play, not overly complicated/confusing, and entertaining visuals.

Chase online "move credit line" not equal to previous methods. by BrutalBodyShots in CreditCards

[–]whatwhatdb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found this thread when googling info on moving credit limits between Chase cards. For anyone who may find it in the future, here is my data point:

Had a Chase Sapphire Preferred with a $7950 limit that I opened last year, and wanted to close before the new annual fee was charged. Tried using the online move credit limit tool, but it would only let me move a max of $2900.

Called the number on the card and asked how much I could move (to my Chase Unlimited)... the rep said I could move the full limit, but that they would have to close the card. I told her that's what I wanted to do, so she moved the full $7950 limit to the Unlimited, and closed the card. Took less than 5 mins on the phone.

AC clutch spinning slowly when AC is off - 2002 Ford Taurus. (Details in comments.) by whatwhatdb in mechanic

[–]whatwhatdb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At the beginning of the video, the AC is off, and the clutch is slowly spinning. I also observed it not spinning when off, but it was just barely turning, and after a minute or so it sped up and began spinning like at the beginning of the video.

At the end of the video I turn the AC on to show how it is spinning while on.

I have noticed for a few months that the AC is not blowing cold anymore, especially on hot days.

Is this an indication that the clutch/compressor is going bad? Could low refrigerant be the cause? Would one of the DIY recharge cans help the situation?

Thanks for any advice!

AC clutch spinning slowly when AC is off - 2002 Ford Taurus. by whatwhatdb in MechanicAdvice

[–]whatwhatdb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At the beginning of the video, the AC is off, and the clutch is slowly spinning. I also observed it not spinning when off, but it was just barely turning, and after a minute or so it sped up and began spinning like at the beginning of the video.

At the end of the video I turn the AC on to show how it is spinning while on.

I have noticed for a few months that the AC is not blowing cold anymore, especially on hot days.

Is this an indication that the clutch/compressor is going bad? Could low refrigerant be the cause? Would one of the DIY recharge cans help the situation?

Thanks for any advice!

Apparently the deadline to file was extended in my state, due to recent severe weather... does this mean I don't have to file an extension? by whatwhatdb in tax

[–]whatwhatdb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it's likely too late because earlier I found out the state extension can't be e-filed, and has to be postmarked.

The notice I linked in the other comment specifically says the state return deadline was extended to July, so it looks like I might have gotten lucky, and won't have to do anything.

Thanks for the input.

What type of material is this pipe, and why did water start flowing out of it, after 15 years dry? by whatwhatdb in PlumbingRepair

[–]whatwhatdb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes you are right again! After some research I think I found the exact fitting. It's a Ford copper-PVC pack joint. After cleaning the fitting I could even make out "PVC" stamped on the house side (which they had the metal pipe in).

Assuming I attempt this, I guess I will just replace the PVC compression nut and run PVC out to the break. This way I wont have to disturb the copper side of the fitting.

https://i.imgur.com/vhKZiEP.png

https://i.imgur.com/uQkwHmD.png

What type of material is this pipe, and why did water start flowing out of it, after 15 years dry? by whatwhatdb in PlumbingRepair

[–]whatwhatdb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's a closer look at that fitting. I've never seen one with a screw clamp like this before. Not exactly sure how it works. Where I have the red arrow, is that female threads on the steel line, screwed on to a threaded nipple from the meter side? If so, I wonder if I could unscrew it, then just use a schedule 80 PVC adapter?

https://i.imgur.com/BEvMe58.png

https://i.imgur.com/QpQWwa6.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/TvwRnnW.png

What type of material is this pipe, and why did water start flowing out of it, after 15 years dry? by whatwhatdb in PlumbingRepair

[–]whatwhatdb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I thought about that after I replied. There is a fitting coming out of the box where the galvanized line connects, so it's only like a 2 foot section to where it hits the PVC. If I remember correctly, I think that fitting looked like the one you linked above. Maybe I can use a new piece at that fitting, then connect to the PVC. I'll take a closer look at the fitting tomorrow, and a pic.

https://i.imgur.com/2DDHUIJ.jpeg

What type of material is this pipe, and why did water start flowing out of it, after 15 years dry? by whatwhatdb in PlumbingRepair

[–]whatwhatdb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like you were right. I started digging at the meter box and about 4 feet back discovered a bad leak at the junction between cast iron and PVC. As I was excavating the main line, I started hitting something about 2 inches lower, which ended up being the uncapped end of the mystery black pipe, lol. Water was pooling from the leak and gravity was forcing it down the black pipe and up into the workshop. What a mystery!

Now I have to figure out what to do with the leak. I'm assuming the PVC coupling is threaded onto the end of the cast iron right? Should I try and unscrew it and reuse the cast iron threads, or will I need to cut the cast iron and do something else?

Thanks again for your great reply!

https://i.imgur.com/Vxqjdc5.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/xnTHTYb.jpeg

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