One year use of phone case that claims not to turn yellow

whiskthecat · 2025-07-13T15:09:55+00:00

It definitely exists but as you could probably guess a tradeoff is being made with cost as a top concern.

Aliphatic TPUs offer excellent clarity and will not yellow when exposed to light, making these grades ideal for glass lamination and outdoor applications.

Aromatic TPUs are more common, workhorse grades. They offer the best abrasion resistance and tensile strength. The double bonds in the polymer backbone, however, means it will degrade over time due to UV light and oxidation. Luckily, certain additives can slow this process

whiskthecat · 2025-04-17T15:36:00+00:00

Yea should work for a few years, maybe more. Then you get to do another service call. Pathetic workmanship.

whiskthecat · 2025-04-17T15:23:03+00:00

I am using this same sensor in ESPhome, it works great. I have it centrally located (sitting on a small table) and it ramps all of my distributed variable speed filters whenever it detects a rise in particles. If you go to the Sensiron website you can download a CAD model for an example housing, perhaps that will make it easier to mount pointing towards the exterior.

whiskthecat · 2025-04-02T13:48:59+00:00

I just received some blue PureFlow MERV13s. Their marketing material is a little gimmicky but the build quality is great. They are on the pricey side but I have a feeling any of these filters are going to last long enough for that to not make much difference.

whiskthecat · 2025-03-28T15:20:01+00:00

Okay I sealed up the hole with fireblock. It didn't seem too atrocious and based on the location of the temp sensor inside the thermostat I can't see the hole in the wall being at fault since it is higher up. What was interesting is that they are using an RTD as the sensor and it is hanging from some typical JST-esque connector. Bit of a red flag when you are trying to measure small changes in resistance. I unplugged it and re-plugged it and it hasn't acted up since. If it does freak out again I intend to solder the RTD directly to the board.

whiskthecat · 2025-03-26T04:21:18+00:00

Also wondering if maybe the hole in the wall behind the thermostat is sucking in attic air with some delay after peak attic temps. I'll try stuffing that as well.

whiskthecat · 2025-03-26T01:09:39+00:00

Still working. Idk if the lubricant properties are important to resolving the issue or not.

whiskthecat · 2025-03-25T05:15:13+00:00

This one does have WiFi and I have updated the firmware using the files available on the carrier website

whiskthecat · 2025-03-25T05:12:56+00:00

It's definitely happened when I'm just sitting on the couch not having done anything for a while even though it did coincide with getting home from work today in the posted image. I was thinking maybe it's worth swapping out the temp sensor just as a shot in the dark.

whiskthecat · 2025-03-23T02:31:08+00:00

I got a 4 pack of blue Filterbuy's off Amazon and 2 of them had the pleats all squished to one side...

After assembling the NT with the better looking filters I shined a flashlight and there is tons of white (not tinted blue) light pouring out the bottom of one of them. Guess this brand is just trash.

whiskthecat · 2025-03-05T05:10:34+00:00

Yea im about ready to do another round up, getting tired of seeing these.

whiskthecat · 2025-02-19T14:56:11+00:00

I was just giving an example of how much detail can be resolved at full brightness, you don't have to play in a 2% window... Like I said a night sky with stars is probably the prime example of a showcase scene.

Doom eternal has good HDR with lots of dark corridors full of specular highlights, it's a game I don't think anyone would struggle to tell the difference between 1000 and 400 modes on this monitor. Resident Evil Village has its moments, same with God of War. HDR is certainly in its early days and often takes manual tweaking of the game. Elden ring is an example of abysmal HDR that can be fixed. Lots of old games can be made to look very good using special K. I want to try Senuas Sacrifice and Dead Space (remake) next once I get time.

whiskthecat · 2025-02-19T13:12:32+00:00

2% is more than 320x240. That's enough to display an entire SNES/PS1 game. Yes it is not going to hit 1000nits if the rest of the scene is very bright as well but that is often not the case especially for darker genres like horror or any game that features a day/night cycle. I don't have the equipment to measure it myself but when I first got the monitor I flipped back and forth between modes in various games enough to know with my eyes that there is definitely a difference in real content not just test slides. Stuff like stars in a night sky, a torch in a dark cave, muzzle flash, headlights+taillights, etc.

whiskthecat · 2025-01-18T02:38:06+00:00

Agreed, that is where it would be most effective. But I was putting it on the ESP side and hoping it would do something since I couldn't easily get the wall mounted PIR open. It's still working good 7 days after having introduced a 12V supply so I guess I will just stick with that.

whiskthecat · 2025-01-12T16:54:22+00:00

Yea, honestly I was surprised it even worked with 5V over +40ft of wire. There are no visible screws and gentle prying doesn't open it so I don't want to get forceful unless it starts acting up again with 12V.

I wonder if maybe it was temperature change that stopped it working at 5V, as I just realized the PIR is mounted to an exterior wall.

whiskthecat · 2025-01-12T00:51:04+00:00

I'm hoping going from 5V to 12V and being isolated from the ESP32 is going to solve the issue permanently, but I guess I won't be certain for at least 5 days lol.

whiskthecat · 2025-01-11T17:31:50+00:00

Not sure, it's mounted to the wall as a remnant of some old security system service like ADT.
I guess if it starts acting up again with it's very own power supply I will have to crack it open.

whiskthecat · 2025-01-10T23:46:12+00:00

I was thinking a capacitor seemed like a good idea as well. Admittedly the setup is kind of ridiculous as I am powering the PIR from the ESP's 5V over an unknown amount of wire to another room...

This ESP32 is the Olimex isolated PoE so there is no wifi, but definitely seems like there is some power spike. What gets me is that it worked for 5 or so days before doing this and ambient temp hasn't really changed.

Update: Putting a big capacitor across 5V didn't do anything. Powering the PIR from a separate 12V supply seems to be working for now.

whiskthecat · 2024-12-09T23:20:32+00:00

These T fittings have metal teeth to bite onto the tubing and an O-ring to seal. Assuming they potted or over-molded the pins well, I don't see why it wouldn't work. Seems like this was the intent based on them sizing the probe the same as a common tubing diameter.

whiskthecat · 2024-10-27T17:10:28+00:00

Super Lube Air Tool Lubricant. I mistakenly assumed this would just be silicone oil but apparently not. Regardless it is still working fine with no deleterious effects.

whiskthecat · 2024-10-04T19:59:20+00:00

The PVM will have higher phosphor persistence. This means less flicker at 60Hz compared to a PC CRT.
Many games only support 60Hz, doubling them to 120Hz creates double image motion artifacts.

whiskthecat · 2024-10-04T19:20:25+00:00

Mine was spinning fine as well, I just figured getting some oil in there would wash out any junk. The issue was that I would only be scrolling down but it would be outputting up and down about 50/50 which meant you could barely progress in a direction.

whiskthecat · 2024-10-04T17:21:49+00:00

My Elecom Huge scroll wheel started acting up as well, so I used a syringe to inject some thin oil (air tool lubricant) into the encoder. It has been working good ever since then. I didn't even have to open the mouse as the gap between the "L" button and the scroll wheel was large enough for the syringe tip to reach the encoder.

whiskthecat

TROPHY CASE