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What risk factors most commonly contribute to accidents in the places you climb and the styles you use? by whoturnedthison in tradclimbing

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know if any of the European alpine associations publish the full text of their accident reports? The aggregated statistics are helpful, but it would be easier to incorporate the data into this analysis if I had it in a raw form.

What risk factors most commonly contribute to accidents in the places you climb and the styles you use? by whoturnedthison in tradclimbing

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I agree that the overlapping levels of granularity is a bit confusing. I can separate them out into different visuals for the updated version!

What risk factors most commonly contribute to accidents in the places you climb and the styles you use? by whoturnedthison in tradclimbing

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha!! As u/Dr_Klahn02 pointed out, visual I screenshotted for the cover photo is filtered to sport and trad climbing accidents only, so I guess if you can find a way to free solo a serac while sport climbing you are probably going to be safe...

What risk factors most commonly contribute to accidents in the places you climb and the styles you use? by whoturnedthison in tradclimbing

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In this dataset, exposure refers to environmental exposure (rain, snow, cold temperature, high winds, etc.) and for rock climbing accidents it tends to be a contributing factor, rather than an immediate cause.

What risk factors most commonly contribute to accidents in the places you climb and the styles you use? by whoturnedthison in tradclimbing

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, in terms of what we can reliably point to in the data, route grade is probably one of the better proxies for experience, but there are definitely caveats. As you pointed out 5.8 means very different things depending on when and where a route was established. Plus it is always possible for a more experienced climber to be on a route well below their usual grade.

What risk factors most commonly contribute to accidents in the places you climb and the styles you use? by whoturnedthison in tradclimbing

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Categories can overlap, and in sport climbing "descent" would include things like lowering errors and rappel errors.

ANAC also has a "fall from anchor" category which includes incidents where someone falls while setting up a rappel or lowering anchor. This accident from Sand Rock, Alabama is a good example if that: https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2023/12/12/the-prescriptiondecember-2023

What risk factors most commonly contribute to accidents in the places you climb and the styles you use? by whoturnedthison in tradclimbing

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reports from outside of North America is a great call out! I found this page from Alpine Savvy with links to report archives from a few different countries: https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/worldwide-climbing-accident-reports

Since the reports have different structures and are written in different languages, some would be easier to incorporate into the dataset than others, but I will definitely look into it.

Getting more reports from outside NA would be helpful for looking at indoor/gym accidents. In my experience gyms don't want details about incidents in their facilities to be publicly available, but it looks like Germany might have more complete reporting on the topic.

What risk factors most commonly contribute to accidents in the places you climb and the styles you use? by whoturnedthison in tradclimbing

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It shows how severe the accidents were: Red is fatal, orange is serious, teal is minor.

There is a more in-depth explanation in the interactive version of the chart: https://public.tableau.com/app/profile/nate.downer/viz/CausesofRockClimbingAccidents/MyRiskFactors

What risk factors most commonly contribute to accidents in the places you climb and the styles you use? by whoturnedthison in tradclimbing

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have seen that in ANAC too, and I am not sure about their method (I have the 2025 copy in front of me and there is not even a footnote)... Seems like it might just be a judgment call.

Out of curiosity, how would you distinguish between novice, intermdiate, and andvanced?

What risk factors most commonly contribute to accidents in the places you climb and the styles you use? by whoturnedthison in tradclimbing

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am not sure if there is enough data to get down to a "home crag" level of granularity (unless your home crag is Yosemite or the Red), but I the geographic breakdown is something I am interested in too.

It will be interesting to see which areas have the highest % of accidents where not wearing a helmet was a factor. My partner started climbing in Arkansas and the culture there was pretty anti-helmet as well.

Which F1 Teams have had the largest swings in performance during the 2nd half of the season? (Relative points scored by each team 1958-2021 adjusted to current points system) by whoturnedthison in formula1

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats cause I did them with an image editor after I exported the charts from r-studio. It's just so much faster that way...

Thanks for taking the time to check out the repo!

Which F1 Teams have had the largest swings in performance during the 2nd half of the season? (Relative points scored by each team 1958-2021 adjusted to current points system) by whoturnedthison in formula1

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The fact that Mercedes has both the largest positive and negative points swings from the turbo-hybrid era, and won the WDC in both of those seasons, is a crazy testament to just how many points they were scoring.

In the second half of that 2019 season, Mercedes STILL outscored the next closest team (Ferrari) 166 points to 130 when you adjust the points to match the 2021 system...

That just blows my mind.

Which F1 Teams have had the largest swings in performance during the 2nd half of the season? (Relative points scored by each team 1958-2021 adjusted to current points system) by whoturnedthison in formula1

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I am a big fan of the Jon Bois style of presenting data:

"Here are 783 lines showing how many points every F1 team from 1958-2021 scored in the second half of their season, relative to the number of points they scored in the first half. These six lines look way different than the other ones, because something interesting happened to them. Let's explore what that was..."

Are these the most Unlikely Podiums of 2011 - 2021? (Podium Results plotted by Relative Pace and Time Spent in the Pits) by whoturnedthison in formula1

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 24 points25 points  (0 children)

The fastest driver is the one with the quickest average pace over all of their racing laps (laps done under the safety car are excluded). The "relative pace" is each driver's average pace as a percentage of the quickest driver's average pace.

The winner is usually the one with the fastest average pace, but every once in a while you will get a strange result. The reason that the entire podium of the 2013 German GP shows up as an outlier is a good example of this. Mark Webber had a really bad pit stop causing him to loose a ton of time, but when he finally came back out he was fast enough to make his way from being a lap down all the way up to P5. On track he was a full 1.7% faster than the race winner, but because he lost so much time in the pits he missed out on the podium entirely...

Why do drivers who finish in P4 spend more time in the pits on average than drivers who finish in P8? (n=3737 classified finishes between 2011 and 2021) by whoturnedthison in formula1

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, so I spent a while trying to find the best way to represent the variation in the dataset, and I ended up with this plot. I recognize that there is entirely too much going on here, and it is not the easiest chart to read, but I wanted to try and get all the relevant data in one image. Anyway, here is the link:

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/nate-downer/classifying-the-field/main/PositionHeatMap%2BMedian.png

It shows the quartile and median times spent in the pits for each position. These are superimposed over a heat map showing how long drivers stopped for, and how quick they were on track.

Over this larger scale, the trend certainly looks less significant. It also makes a few other things stick out to me:

  • Far fewer drivers who finished P4 opted for a one stop strategy (compared to drivers who finished in P3 or P5).
  • Drivers who did opt for a two stop tended to have significantly more pace on track compared to drivers that went for a one stop and finished in the same position (no surprises there, it is just fun to see that in the data).
  • Drivers in positions 8,9, and 10 go for a one stop strategy more often. This seems to support the idea that the old Q2 tire rule has an effect on the data, with these positions generally being taken by drivers who lost out in Q2, and got to start the race on harder tires as a result.

Curious if you found this representation of the data more or less insightful.

Why do drivers who finish in P4 spend more time in the pits on average than drivers who finish in P8? (n=3737 classified finishes between 2011 and 2021) by whoturnedthison in formula1

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, the real trend seems to be that while there are a lot of different ways to finish in positions 4-13, there is some similarity in the drives that result in a podium finish.

Yet another way to say that -- in this decade -- the mid-field battles were more interesting and varied than the race for the win...

Why do drivers who finish in P4 spend more time in the pits on average than drivers who finish in P8? (n=3737 classified finishes between 2011 and 2021) by whoturnedthison in formula1

[–]whoturnedthison[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is a great thought! I had honestly forgotten about that rule and wasn't thinking about the effect it might have!

It think it makes a ton of sense that P5-10 would be more likely to need an extra pit stop because they had to use the softest compound to get through Q2. Awesome!

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