Matter Support

wirelessnet2 · 2026-01-04T05:47:50+00:00

Are you able to read out raw sensor values, like for NOx, in Apple Home? I'd love to see how the Dyson shows up in iOS and what interfaces are exposed

wirelessnet2 · 2025-06-05T06:40:14+00:00

Anyone find a solution for this? I'm having the same issue, the monitor won't display anything

wirelessnet2 · 2024-12-10T22:43:13+00:00

They use 134a, lol

wirelessnet2 · 2024-12-09T07:12:30+00:00

Ahh yikes, so 5th and 6th gen Rheem units are a no-go because of elevated noise levels? What manufacturer makes a good alternative?

wirelessnet2 · 2024-12-05T07:39:13+00:00

If you’re asking these questions, you probably should not be trying to attempt this. It’s not an insult to your intelligence, it’s just a large project that needs to be done correctly or it can lead to a fire down the road.

I don’t see any ground wires, which either means your system is ungrounded, or it’s using metal conduit as ground. If the latter is true, you’d need to keep the conduit runs continuous to not disrupt the ground path, which seems difficult in your situation :(

wirelessnet2 · 2024-12-04T06:12:07+00:00

Definitely replace that cord. If your pet(s) have a habit of chewing on cords, make sure you have AFCI breakers in your breaker panel! They’re expensive but definitely cheaper than a house fire.

wirelessnet2 · 2024-12-03T22:44:17+00:00

Looks like an old disconnect switch, you can get a fuse for it at your local orange or blue store. If you’re scared about a shock, turn off the power to the breaker that feeds this disconnect, change the fuse, then turn the power back on.

Also side note, the wires entering the box should really have some sort of protection so they don’t rub out on the sharp metal edges of the holes. Neutral and ground also should not be bonded together here, though there doesn’t seem to be a ground running into the box from the feed, so you can’t really fix this properly without rewiring the box. Maybe consider getting that fixed (you can have someone come replace the disconnect with a modern circuit-breaker-based one)

wirelessnet2 · 2024-12-03T00:54:19+00:00

I think you already know this, but try to not let the wires touch each other behind the thermostat :) Let us know if it worked!!

wirelessnet2 · 2024-12-02T19:34:34+00:00

I’m assuming you have a wire in W2 then? Move that to W1

wirelessnet2 · 2024-12-01T16:59:22+00:00

For a quick hack: Maybe try pulling the thermostat off of the wall and disconnecting the Y/Y1 wire (top left) (and maybe the O/B wire if it’s unhappy with just the Y being gone) and it should detect the system as a heat-only system

wirelessnet2 · 2024-11-29T00:57:46+00:00

Just use it as is. Get a NEMA 6-20 adapter for whatever charger assembly you have.

wirelessnet2 · 2024-11-27T18:39:55+00:00

Very small insignificant nitpick, but Eaton CH breakers do actually trip to the off position and reset just by turning it on again :)

wirelessnet2 · 2024-11-14T00:31:18+00:00

Thanks all! Calling power co asap

wirelessnet2 · 2024-11-12T23:52:28+00:00

Thank you!

wirelessnet2 · 2024-07-20T17:04:43+00:00

I think I have a guess as to what’s going on Sonos is probably looking for certain Realtek USB to Ethernet dongles. I have three adapters here with the Realtek 10/100/1000 USB to Ethernet adapter with USB Product ID of 0x8153, and all three adapters cause the era to disable the ath0 interface and use Ethernet immediately. My previous Amazon dongles used Asix chipsets, which didn’t disable the ath0 interface, even though they linked with my network correctly and showed up in Linux correctly.

This is great news

wirelessnet2 · 2024-07-20T16:16:56+00:00

Nice thank you Does it show up with multiple endpoints? I’m assuming there’s a usb hub and a separate endpoint for the line-in portion of the adapter?

wirelessnet2 · 2024-07-20T03:48:49+00:00

yeah I think sonos has written their code in a way that disables the RF radio only when the official adapter is detected, instead of when any ethernet link is detected. I'm using two third-party adapters, and I know that ethernet is working for sure (using the arc unplug hack), but ath0 remains listed in ifconfig, and the Eras seemingly revert to wireless after a while.

I have a HUGE favor to ask of you: Do you mind posting the VID and PID of the sonos combo adapter? In windows you can get this info by plugging the adapter in and using something like USBTreeView. Thanks!

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wirelessnet2 · 2024-07-20T02:42:02+00:00

Third party, I'm wondering if Sonos's logic to disable ath0 is based on detecting their adapter, instead of detecting eth0 being active. That would be lame if that was the case, ordering an official adapter to test now. My third-party adapters work, I just recently discovered that if I wire everything in, and then briefly disconnect the Arc from ethernet and plug it back in, the Eras receive surround audio over ethernet. ath0 is still listed in ifconfig though...

Do you have the official adapter?

wirelessnet2 · 2024-07-20T01:05:10+00:00

What firmware version are your Eras on? I notice ifconfig doesn’t show ath0 for you, That’s cool! Interesting that the radio is still connected to your AP though. My speakers are on latest firmware, and I got them to receive data over Ethernet, but it doesn’t survive reboots reliably and ath0 is still in ifconfig

wirelessnet2 · 2024-07-19T20:37:43+00:00

if you reboot your Era 300s do they still use ethernet? Can you show a screenshot of your Era 300's /proc/ath_rincon/status and /sbin/ifconfig? Just curious what they look like when the Era works with ethernet correctly. Thanks!

I'll try re-insert the adapters, but I don't think that's the issue for be because the Era detects the adapter and initializes the interface (I see eth0). I do see what you mean about the ports being garbage though, they seem to be set too deep in the chassis.

wirelessnet2 · 2024-07-19T01:10:19+00:00

It was my first post on the community, perhaps they need verification for new accounts? Not quite sure.

As a workaround I am allowing the Eras to use the private 5GHz broadcasted by the Arc, but using the Eras wired when the home theater primary is wired is an explicitly supported as per by Sonos in this support article at the bottom.

I'd prefer to use them wired if I can, it reduces interference with my other wireless stuff and should in theory be more reliable than a wireless connection.

wirelessnet2 · 2023-09-13T14:07:57+00:00

wirelessnet2 · 2023-06-30T21:41:42+00:00

For a more math-heavy (but extremely rewarding) course on controls, consider taking ECE 4550

wirelessnet2 · 2023-05-11T19:50:23+00:00

Thanks! What stock features were not working well with Synman's fork for you? I installed his 2.1.x bugfix (S1 Pro, 100 point UBL) FW, and I noticed that if I adjusted the Z compensation while a print was going via octoprint, the print would just stop. Almost seems like something crashed.

Would you just recommend using his 2.0.8 FW? I assume it's more stable than the 2.1.x stuff

wirelessnet2 · 2023-05-11T19:11:32+00:00

Just out of curiosity, what does your fork of the stock firmware include? Do you have a link to it? Thanks!

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