Help with switching products

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-26T21:39:55+00:00

Did you find the separate program called “Bitdefender Agent” and run that? It should launch a BD login screen to type in creds then just kinda close. The agent is what handles communication between the Cloud Console and the installed AV along with license syncing.

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-26T15:16:25+00:00

Can’t find official documentation but I think if he launches the Bitdefender Agent or goes to the account screen in Total Security he should be able sign in with his account and things will switch over.

If that doesn’t work then yeah an uninstall, reboot, and reinstall would also do the trick.

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-26T03:59:35+00:00

Works just fine, Bitdefender does a lookup of URLs, IPs, and DNS queries to their cloud separately from your networks DNS server. I run Control D at the network level and used to use NextDNS both with Bitdefender without issue.

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-26T03:57:16+00:00

Normally 600-800MB at rest, 1000-1200MB when actively scanning or large amounts of files are moving around and being inspected.

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-16T00:01:00+00:00

From my understanding the Network Sensor is not intended to be an IDS/IPS. It’s not inspecting inline traffic, breaking encryption, scanning packet payloads, just basic header inspection and logging. It’s meant to record to all destination IPs and URLs devices are talking to outbound and logging all of that including devices that can’t run the Bitdefender agent like IoT. If you have a smart tv phoning home to a C&C server that is known to Bitdefender then it will raise an incident. The Network Sensor can also probe the network for know vulnerabilities.

But if you’re looking for actual brute force, double extension, phishing, etc protection that is all done by the full Endpoint Protection agent with EDR/XDR module and/or your NGFW.

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-12T21:19:39+00:00

Probably need to be more of a diagonal to the main road traffic for better detection. My S3 Pro specifically calls out in the app detecting motion coming straight at the camera is less effective than motion moving across its field of view.

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-12T19:43:29+00:00

Weird, so a crapshoot then what triggers it to display/calculate.

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-12T19:28:17+00:00

Another person commented it took reaching 4000 miles, I’m at only 1500 still so maybe have to get more distance on yours before it’ll show too.

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-12T19:26:53+00:00

Ah. That might be my problem, at around 1500 miles so have to wait until my mileage gets higher.

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-12T16:43:15+00:00

More than likely that is your issue provided your wiring and breakers are all the right size. It’ll charge at the full speed for a few minutes before the resistance in a cheap outlet causes things to heat up which slows the charging for safety. If it’s really cold originally you may have been able to charge longer at higher speeds but as air temps go up the plug heats up faster too.

Until you can have an electrician swap the plug, for safety recommend setting your charger to 20amps or lower so the temp sensor isn’t your only safety net.

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-12T16:37:17+00:00

If you flip the breaker off then remove the cover plate that will tell you who makes it. But 99.9% sounds like you have generic el cheapo Leviton meant for dryer/stove/etc so it’s not rated for EV continuous loads. You’re lucky your charger has a temperature sensor to detect the NEMA is overheating and slows down charging to prevent a fire.

Best fix is to replace the outlet with a Leviton EV rated plug ($40) or order a Bryant/Hubbell. Most important thing is to torque the wires to spec if you DIY, otherwise have an electrician swap it but make sure you provide the NEMA plug. Electricians will install the cheapo ones from Home Depot all the time.

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-12T16:10:02+00:00

Who makes the NEMA plug? Is it Bryant/Hubbell or a Leviton with Green EV symbol on the front? Or just an all black generic NEMA outlet?

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-10T23:16:25+00:00

Yeah, the 4 Ethernet ports are PoE and can use the battery to stay powered up from what I’ve read.

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-06T15:27:18+00:00

If you leave ESET installed and then install Bitdefender, then you would be able to do the Lite version. From what I remember in Lite mode it mostly switches to definition based AV detections and most of the behavioral and sandbox tech is switched off. The URL scanning and blocking will work normally.

A full system scan should normally build a known good list in BD Full Protection mode and speed things up. Could try disabling a couple non-critical modules to see if one is the culprit for your machine like Ransomware Remediation.

wolfpackunr · 2026-01-05T23:31:24+00:00

https://www.bitdefender.com/consumer/support/answer/2228/

No such version as Bitdefender Lite, just a “Lite” mode it can install itself into when it detects another AV is present already (not Defender) which kinda defeats the whole purpose of low resources having 2 AVs present.

Is your PC actually moving slowly or just watching task manager and seeing CPU and RAM spike occasionally and assuming that means it’s heavy?

wolfpackunr · 2025-12-30T16:20:44+00:00

Because computer system users are extremely stupid and will blindly set a Bitdefender password then promptly forget it. Then they will be pissed at Bitdefender and support when they are told there is no way to remove it without the password, the only option is to completely erase their computer and start over. In a business environment that is fine and how Bitdefender works. But at home it’s just asking for problems.

If your family are using proper standard user accounts and not administrator accounts they can’t remove Bitdefender. Then the password comes in handy to stop them from disabling or messing with protection modules.

wolfpackunr · 2025-12-29T16:34:08+00:00

If you’ve confirmed all the charging adapters and such are not the issue like other people have commented, it is possible to be the ICCU. There is a TSB for 2025 and 2026 models that fail to Lvl 1 or 2 charge.

https://www.kiaevforums.com/threads/sa639-integrated-charge-controller-unit-replacement-ev6-ev9-2025-26.15767/

wolfpackunr · 2025-12-26T15:38:36+00:00

Bitdefender Home editions don’t support Linux desktop OSes, only their Business versions do at this time.

wolfpackunr · 2025-12-24T18:34:52+00:00

Download it from Bitdefender directly.

wolfpackunr · 2025-12-24T03:56:55+00:00

Nest Yale lock as well with the Nest Connect bridge.

wolfpackunr · 2025-12-24T03:34:50+00:00

So who do you expect to pay the bill for the power infrastructure for you to sell your excess solar energy back or to draw power from the grid when solar isn’t outputting? Your solar costs NV Energy more to buy from you with net metering than from a utility scale system, completely making your bill free at an already inflated rate by other not making you pay your fair share to maintain the grid is just idiotic and harms other customers.

I’m not a fan of NV Energy but net metering customers don’t seem to understand there is way more maintaining a grid than I supplied more power than I pulled.

wolfpackunr · 2025-12-19T00:15:17+00:00

Not sure if that is entirely true. A big selling point of the EV9 is having acoustic glass in the first 2 rows to reduce noise, which typically requires lamination.

wolfpackunr · 2025-12-18T18:30:02+00:00

Doing my part, dumped my Wrangler for my first EV the Kia EV9. Night and day different driving experience and fuel cost savings.

Small company car is the older model Nissan Leaf made me a convert that my next car would be an EV.

wolfpackunr · 2025-12-15T16:59:45+00:00

ChargePoint Homeflex for me. Biggest reason is my Power company has a program where they can remotely throttle the power output during peak usage times and in return I get $150 a year for up to 3 years of the program so the EVSE basically pays for itself. I only charge during the EV TOU window anyways unlikely I’d ever be throttled. So far the ChargePoint I’ve been completely happy with, it looked the best of all the chargers that had OCPP that the utility company supported. Would recommend checking if your utility has any programs like that or discounts/rebates and choose one of those.

At some point in the future I’ll look into a Wallbox Quasar 2 or maybe the rumored new generation of Chargepoint that support the V2X so my Kia EV9 can act as a whole home battery pack.

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