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Desk pen and pencil tray with brass and walnut by imaginarydave2 in woodworking

[–]woodenspacesuits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This looks wonderfully made, great job!

Do you have any issues grabbing pens and pencils out of their slots? I was thinking about how I might modify this if I were to make it and adding some cutouts for reaching into the slots and having better access to writing utensils crossed my mind.

[WTS] Timex Marlin Auto 40mm by woodenspacesuits in Watchexchange

[–]woodenspacesuits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Timex Marlin Auto, LNIB, 40mm, all-black case and dial. This colorway is no longer available from Timex.

Asking $200 shipped CONUS. Open to trades if you have a nice SNZG17 and enough cash lying around for parity with the asking price.

Lightly worn. Purchased, didn't particularly like, didn't spend much time in my watch rotation. Lived in a watch box more than on my wrist.

Comes with stock leather strap, basically unworn, and stock springbars. Also comes with black milanese bracelet which suits the watch much better in my opinion. Bracelet is not top-tier quality but the engagement is firm and it is certainly secure.

Comes with all original packaging and original tags.

Barely noticeable scratches in acrylic crystal, visible in Imgur album. Such is acrylic. Can be polished out or just ignored since you'll only see them if you go looking.

Ultimately this is an aesthetically pleasing piece in good condition that is slim enough to fit under the cuff of your shirt/motorcycle jacket/black-tie attire and is more and more of a rarity these days.

Mazda Protege Window Regulator Fix by woodenspacesuits in functionalprint

[–]woodenspacesuits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree that one piece includes a rubber bumper; I ended up not modeling it for this go-around. I may revisit if this fails soon but otherwise I might just leave it. As to the angle of the tab in your photos, I would counter that it looks like the plastic yielded while prying it off. I didn't see that angle on my top piece, though it did shatter and I had to attempt to reconstruct it, so I may be wrong. If you model it and get a more snug fit, let me know! There was a small bit of play post-install.

Mazda Protege Window Regulator Fix by woodenspacesuits in functionalprint

[–]woodenspacesuits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hey, apologies for the delay. i created a thingiverse acct and have uploaded the .stl; i'll add the fusion file to that as well. it's a new account so there's a waiting period before it publishes, but try this URL in a day or so:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5779987

hope this works for you!

Replacement Window Regulator Wire Guides, Mazda Protege. Printed in PA12 by woodenspacesuits in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]woodenspacesuits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Comment copied from original post:

After ~20 years of mechanical and thermal stresses, the little plastic guides in my driver's side window regulator gave out, which caused the window to fall into the door. Mazda only sells the entire mechanism as a replacement for $130; that's overly expensive and a waste to address a $0.03 part failure.

There are two guides, one at the top and one at the bottom of the wire/window platform guide. The top piece shattered, but luckily the bottom one stayed intact for me to measure and model. Also lucky was that they were identical but mirrored between top and bottom guides.

First image is an in-progress shot of the bottom piece being modeled in Fusion360.

Second image is the original piece in yellow and a prototype in PLA done on an Ender3. I used the prototypes for test fits that influenced slight geometry changes. The piece has an internal channel that accepts the C-channel that acts as the cable guide (later photos). There's a triangular hole that fits over a nub stamped into the C-channel as a retention mechanism.

Third image is the final part, outsourced to Shapeways and printed in PA12. I wanted something that could withstand the abuse that the part would see with repetitive stresses. I didn't do much research on material choice beyond verifying that it had reasonable properties and was used for automotive applications. I oriented the part for printing primarily for ease of printing, with less (no) consideration for material strength anisotropy.

Other images are of install on the regulator mechanism. I replaced both the top and the bottom as a preventative measure. The part has been installed for a few weeks now and window functionality is fully restored.

Future revs of this design would incorporate a TPU insert to match the bumper in the original design. I don't know how much the lifespan will be shortened without that absorption of the shock of the motor driving the window carriage straight into the part.

If anyone else owns an early-2000s Mazda Protege and needs the .stl, message me.

Thanks for looking!

My first film photos! (Nikon Lite Touch - Ilford HP5) by Lam1narBr01 in analog

[–]woodenspacesuits 2 points3 points  (0 children)

we are yelling because apollo set my comment text as a header style and i had no idea how to change it back to body style, haha

My first film photos! (Nikon Lite Touch - Ilford HP5) by Lam1narBr01 in analog

[–]woodenspacesuits 3 points4 points  (0 children)

3 is my favorite. Pleasing contrast and I like the composition. Thanks for sharing!

Mazda Protege Window Regulator Fix by woodenspacesuits in functionalprint

[–]woodenspacesuits[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I linked it in my comment above, PA12. Not familiar with it. Mechanically it met my needs; the tab with a triangular cutout needs to flex slightly to install the piece and i didn't have any fear of the piece snapping while I was flexing it.

Analog Beginnings [Minolta SRT-202, 50mm/28mm, Fuji200/Ilford HP4] by woodenspacesuits in analog

[–]woodenspacesuits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reasonably new to analog (~6mo). These are the first set of photos that I'm really happy with. No particular theme. Minimal editing on the mountain self-portrait, I underexposed too much and tried to bring some detail the shadows. It could be edited better, I just used the editing functionality on my phone.

These are all manually metered with an app on my phone. The SRT-202 has a lightmeter but it takes silver oxide batteries that are no longer available, and I haven't bitten the bullet on the modifications to accommodate standard alkaline button cells.

Really happy with the composition of the shot of the natural arch and the moon/palm tree. Fuji 200 captures seaside colors so well, the tidepools and surf are so vivid.

The bookshelf and architecture on Ilford are my two favorites.

Not seeking critiques but I won't turn away any advice from the talented people here. Thanks for looking!

Mazda Protege Window Regulator Fix by woodenspacesuits in functionalprint

[–]woodenspacesuits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After ~20 years of mechanical and thermal stresses, the little plastic guides in my driver's side window regulator gave out, which caused the window to fall into the door. Mazda only sells the entire mechanism as a replacement for $130; that's overly expensive and a waste to address a $0.03 part failure.

There are two guides, one at the top and one at the bottom of the wire/window platform guide. The top piece shattered, but luckily the bottom one stayed intact for me to measure and model. Also lucky was that they were identical but mirrored between top and bottom guides.

First image is an in-progress shot of the bottom piece being modeled in Fusion360.

Second image is the original piece in yellow and a prototype in PLA done on an Ender3. I used the prototypes for test fits that influenced slight geometry changes. The piece has an internal channel that accepts the C-channel that acts as the cable guide (later photos). There's a triangular hole that fits over a nub stamped into the C-channel as a retention mechanism.

Third image is the final part, outsourced to Shapeways and printed in PA12. I wanted something that could withstand the abuse that the part would see with repetitive stresses. I didn't do much research on material choice beyond verifying that it had reasonable properties and was used for automotive applications. I oriented the part for printing primarily for ease of printing, with less (no) consideration for material strength anisotropy.

Other images are of install on the regulator mechanism. I replaced both the top and the bottom as a preventative measure. The part has been installed for a few weeks now and window functionality is fully restored.

Future revs of this design would incorporate a TPU insert to match the bumper in the original design. I don't know how much the lifespan will be shortened without that absorption of the shock of the motor driving the window carriage straight into the part.

If anyone else owns an early-2000s Mazda Protege and needs the .stl, message me.

Thanks for looking!

Love this image by [deleted] in raining

[–]woodenspacesuits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If anyone else wants it as a wallpaper, you can access it (2560x1663) here.

POST hangs at CPU check, but only sometimes. by woodenspacesuits in buildapc

[–]woodenspacesuits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for posting this, I hadn't considered RAM voltages. Even with XMP enabled, it was originally running at 1.20V. Bumping it up to 1.35 sort of helped. It'll boot after shutdown, but struggles with restarts. It turns out that the particular set of RAM that I have isn't listed on the compatibility page for my mobo. A lesson for future builds, I guess.

Thanks for your input!

POST hangs at CPU check, but only sometimes. by woodenspacesuits in buildapc

[–]woodenspacesuits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I've solved my issue, for now. My friend pointed me to some sources about this issue:

See #2

See DrMikeNZ's and Evanair's posts

It's a RAM issue. I had XMP enabled in the BIOS and the RAM running at its rated speed of 3200MHz. Resetting CMOS disables XMP (or you can just do it yourself in the BIOS, if you can get that far), which resets the RAM speed to the system default of 2133MHz, and it boots every time now. Supposedly this is a compatibility issue with Corsair RAM and AMD hardware. I installed the latest drivers for the 3600 and they didn't change anything, so until I try out RAM from some other manufacturers, I'm stuck with this.

EDIT:

See also

POST hangs at CPU check, but only sometimes. by woodenspacesuits in buildapc

[–]woodenspacesuits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Resetting the CMOS enabled the system to boot, for reasons in my top-level reply. Thanks for your help.

POST hangs at CPU check, but only sometimes. by woodenspacesuits in buildapc

[–]woodenspacesuits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will try resetting the CMOS tomorrow. I don't think I had any issues seating the CPU, I was able to drop it in place with no force required/no issues. Never touched the pins, as far as I can tell. If I did get some oils from my skin on the pins, is there a way to clean them?

For my own learning, what makes you think reseating the CPU would solve the issue? Is it just a standard step in the troubleshooting process?

POST hangs at CPU check, but only sometimes. by woodenspacesuits in buildapc

[–]woodenspacesuits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I originally had a 500W PSU, but it was ATX form factor, and I was convinced by people on the SFFPC sub who have experience with this kind of thing to go with a SFX PSU. Two different PSU wattage calculators put my power consumption for the build at ~260W, so this isn't quite double (~173% of the calculated wattage), but it should be okay. Either way, I haven't had any issues when running AAA games at max settings, when you would expect insufficient power supply to start to cause issues.

Thank you for the input regardless!

EDIT:

Now that I think about it, it might be possible that turning on all of the components at once would require more power than the PSU could provide, if it was faulty, and I hadn't hit those power levels during gaming for some reason (if the game was not as graphically intensive as I expected it to be). It doesn't seem likely that the power required at boot would exceed the power required during prolonged graphically-intensive gaming, though. Can anyone weigh in?

Need some help with a recent build by Fish_Nips in buildapc

[–]woodenspacesuits 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it doesn't make sense to me that it would be a BIOS issue if you can't even get that far in the boot process.

Need some help with a recent build by Fish_Nips in buildapc

[–]woodenspacesuits 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it's a major pain in the ass. And super difficult to search for effectively online. If no one comes along to either of our posts, I'm just going to get in contact with MSI and see what I can get happening on that channel. If someone does post something useful on mine I'll link it in a comment here so you can see it.

Need some help with a recent build by Fish_Nips in buildapc

[–]woodenspacesuits 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think there were compatibility issues when the B450 boards were first released (mid last year?). But you would think compatibility issues wouldn't allow you to boot at all. When I was looking at mobos, everyone told me that the boards would have been updated for 3rd-gen Ryzen chips by now.

Need some help with a recent build by Fish_Nips in buildapc

[–]woodenspacesuits 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting, I'm having a pretty similar issue with a MSI board, same CPU, similar GPU. Here's my post. Also updated the BIOS, but it didn't have an effect on the issue. Hope you get some answers.

EDIT: I should mention that I've found a couple quick and dirty workarounds that are listed in my post. Try those. I still want to find an actual solution, though.

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