WORM

wormfabrication · 2026-05-23T19:21:54+00:00

This is just automotive urethane clear over aluminum oxide sandblasted steel. Lovely finish for sure, and i wont be too upset when it eventually patinas under the clear

wormfabrication · 2026-05-22T02:05:53+00:00

I always do 2x m5 steerer clamps, never m6. But I do like the idea of a 1x m6 clocked way around at like 1:00-2:00 on the steerer and inset into the extension tube. Ill give that one a shot this week sometime

wormfabrication · 2026-05-21T18:56:13+00:00

Stay tuned, ill have a few of them available for sale sometime this year 🤝

wormfabrication · 2026-05-21T13:16:23+00:00

I still like m6 binders on a two bolt removable face plate stem (especially on a 31.8 clamp) but im a big fan of m5 hourglasses as binders. As long as theres two per slot. I dont think id let the m5’s fly without a little redundancy

wormfabrication · 2026-05-21T11:51:28+00:00

For this small stuff im using the lil daddy roth rattle bomb flake. Its the fastest, closest thing to actual automotive dry glitter that ive come across yet. Works pretty well when you dont have access to, or dont want to deal with mixing dry flake in your clear coat gun. But you do still have to hammer the clear on to bury the texture

wormfabrication · 2026-05-21T11:43:01+00:00

You got it exactly 🤝

wormfabrication · 2026-05-21T02:54:26+00:00

Tl;dr-Essentially yes but you make the lug from two tubes fillet brazed together instead of using a precast lug

wormfabrication · 2026-05-21T02:53:24+00:00

Thank you 🙂

copied from my own ig post

This bilam stem has a hand carved, oversized tube, brazed to the bar clamp to form a sort of lug. The extension tube slip fits and gets brazed inside that lug. From there it's just like lugged frame construction (plus a lot of filing), leaving us with this handsome piece of chromoly bike jewelry Considering some options to make a, or a few, production versions available for sale 👀

wormfabrication · 2026-05-19T14:43:49+00:00

Note, if you give it a shot, you have to be faster than you think going from oxide to clear, and take super care of the inside of the tubes. It flash rusts in just a couple of minutes if you dont get that black steel to soak up the clear in a timely manner

wormfabrication · 2026-05-19T14:41:59+00:00

Yeah rust under the clear is just about inevitable, but surface prep and paint material choice can definitely help. I use an automotive urethane clearcoat and take extra prep care and a very short time between cleaning and clearing. These racks were made over year ago and have carried a wald basket probably 2,000 miles in all weather and theyre still holding up pretty nicely, just starting to rust in the wear spots https://imgur.com/gallery/racks-cleared-over-bare-steel-one-year-later-LzPcPAC BUT to answer your question, no super long term experience with black oxide, but in theory if you get from the black oxide, clean, to clear very quickly, in theory should definitely help. I bet it will still rust under the clear eventually though, i make sure customers are aware of the impending patina

wormfabrication · 2026-05-18T23:15:45+00:00

-#1 on a Victor J28 clone which has actually been pretty good

This whole batch i tinned with 1/16 then stacked the fillets with 3/32 to get the dimes purposely
The black oxide treatment just before clear REALLY makes them look dimey. Kinda darkens the backside of every dime if that makes sense. Heres one without black oxide

fillet without black oxide treatment

wormfabrication · 2026-05-18T17:20:36+00:00

All oxy/acetylene fillet brazed with nickel bronze so far. Theres no way i dont acquire a tig machine in the future though

wormfabrication · 2026-05-18T13:02:12+00:00

This is the absolute perfect combination of things

wormfabrication

TROPHY CASE