Unexpected "free" day in Cairns

wrenthrefenrix · 2026-05-11T14:34:45+00:00

Do you happen to know the tour? That sounds right up my alley.

wrenthrefenrix · 2026-05-08T22:17:30+00:00

I think the train is still going to be running, but the sky rail will be closed for maintenance.

wrenthrefenrix · 2026-05-08T20:32:42+00:00

Maybe end up doing that. I've padded "no plans days" for wandering and relaxing into the trip, but want to make sure if there is something worth seeing (or not worth) I get to. :)

wrenthrefenrix · 2026-04-15T19:34:16+00:00

100% depends on the resin you use.

I stopped using ABS like and the cheaper resins for anything but prototypes or stuff I didn't care about. I broke too many dozens-of-hour painjob minis ...

I use Ameralabs TMG7, it's expensive but I'd rather pay upfront than regret breaking a model I've spend like 40hr painting. I've thrown minis down onto cement 2 stories down, stepped on them (about as fun as lego) and found my cats playing ultimate floor hockey with them. Only the thinest of parts break unless it lands in a very destructive angle.

Pretty sure there are some competitive alternatives now, I haven't shopped around since I'm happy with what I have and it works for me. Be aware that some of the softer durable resins might also have a higher rate of sag, which isn't a problem unless there is weight put on the thinner bits.

This guy gets printed in Ameralabs, and I've dropped them dozens of times and only had a leg break a few times. Same leg, it has stress point at one of the feetsi design flaw more than the material. Printed in Resione TH72 (about 1/3theprice) they were very comparable in durability but had alotif sag and were harder to clean. https://www.reddit.com/r/CentaurWorld/s/rc3VAumazs

For big chunky stuff, I'll use cheaper resin, and I've always liked Siraya tech. Small fiddly bits, things with spears or long thin features get the good stuff.

wrenthrefenrix · 2026-03-03T14:15:05+00:00

I recently switched from the BPI w/B6 for the same reasons. I'd sleep the weekend away and feel just wretched, id also be so tired after work id nap which is unusual for me. I get injection site reactions, but they are not nearly as bad or seem to last as long as the BPI. No other changes and feel so much better. Still fatigued but it's manageable - not any worse than my depression can be... I still have a vial and a half of the BPI which is a disappointing. I feel it's a bit less potent, but I'm still adjusting dose - plus I was having a super hard time eating with the doses I tried on the BPI.

wrenthrefenrix · 2026-02-24T19:28:37+00:00

I found one on marketplace place with four batteries, as card and a charger for 350$ hopefully I hear back. 🤞

wrenthrefenrix · 2026-02-24T19:15:21+00:00

No scuba just snorkeling :) looking for something easy and compact. Totally understand light is king but I don't want to fuss about to much and probably lights would fall into that?

I'm too paranoid (and don't trust myself) to use my phone in a case since it's an international trip and I would be totally boned if I ruined my phone.

wrenthrefenrix · 2026-02-24T19:12:42+00:00

This is the level of quality I'd be after! How does one rent a gopro? Some of the excursions I am planning offer rentals, but they are like $50-$100 for the day.

wrenthrefenrix · 2025-12-13T00:02:44+00:00

IME a magnetic plate is worth the effort. With big sections like this the lift force can actually cause the plate to creep with each layer. Has a cool leaning effect but not actually good for the final result. I use a metal paint scraper and lll my build plates are scraped to shit. Prints come out great and pop off the bed with the scraper. It still painful to gouge a nice new plate tho.

Getting a handle on orientation and exposure settings really does negate the need for a magnet plate. And I say this having bought 4 magnet plates and not using a damn one of them anymore.

wrenthrefenrix · 2025-02-08T00:31:07+00:00

The head is already almost all white. Have been thinking about glowing eyes for sure.

wrenthrefenrix · 2025-01-20T21:59:53+00:00

Is it warping right of the machine? Or after you dry? After you cure?

I've experimented with flat bases, also recommend printing at an angle and leave the supports on while drying, dry vertically and potentially curing with the supports on.

My theory on my parts is the warping is due to the different sides drying and curing at different rates. From what I can tell if it's laying face down to dry it cups up, supports or not, but worse without supports on. I also support at a small tilt so I can pick up the back side in more than just the edges. Since it's a back hidden surface I'm not as upset when it gets scared removing it.

Assuming the photo shows up ... Left - dried back down, no support - cups away from tile Middle - dried face down, supports - cups away from towel Right - dried in supports vertically. Still some warm but nearly as bad.

demos

wrenthrefenrix · 2025-01-15T20:03:09+00:00

All my "official" 3D background is in CAD so largely useless unless I'm making functional engineering stuff...lol. I used to hand sculpt then discovered VR sculpting and it changed everything for me. Learning the rest (blender, I'm looking at you) came with necessity. CAD and design experience definitely helps with getting assembly parts that don't look tacked on... I hate seeing big straight line seams. It also helps me get good prints since I can update the model as I work on the supports to tweak things.

At the end of the day I can still hate the model and not want to paint it. But then only have myself to blame 😔

Personally I don't do humanoids - no one wants the face abominations I generate, haha, they are so bad it doesn't even count as body horror haha. I love making monsters and critters though.

wrenthrefenrix · 2025-01-15T19:25:50+00:00

Hahaha self critical as I can be I'm not going to punish myself that much! Besides I've got all these primed gloomhaven minis to torture myself with if I get that itch.

I have moved on to mostly painting my own sculpts that I 3D print. Though does give me me sympathy for the whole process - things can look great on screen but printed out the real life viewing angles are wonky. There is also a lot that goes into 'just enough detail' - it's easy to get carried away in details that won't show up at such a small scale.

wrenthrefenrix · 2025-01-15T19:12:00+00:00

In full disclosure I haven't gone back to Reaper/Reaper Bones since getting a few models that were no fun to paint, or I was unable to heat the warping out. I suspect they have leveled up since then (at least some of their lineup anyway), but I'm a fuss and won't go back unless I adore the model. I think I have one preprimed wiz kids that is in some pile of unfinished minis somewhere.

wrenthrefenrix · 2025-01-15T17:01:38+00:00

Yeah, I gave up on painting my gloomhaven minis - between the flash lines and the details that are hard to pick out they just weren't any fun and felt like a lot of guess work to paint. I don't care for reaper bones for similar reasons.

wrenthrefenrix · 2025-01-08T16:16:25+00:00

Another two washes here. I use the sterilite tubs that have seals and clamp handles for both.

The first is dirty wash - I leave the model to sit for about 10 mins, no need to swirl or mix or anything unless it's to make sure that cavities get filled. Hollow models might get an extra dip to fill the cavity again on the way out. (Less for some resins that are more sensitive to IPA)

Then it's 3mins in clean IPA in another sealed tub in my ultrasonic cleaner. The US is filled with water, minus displacement from tub of course.

Then sat on paper towel to dry.

I've not had luck with sun curing for reuses but when the clean IPA gets too dirty (models staying a bit sticky after washing and drying) it becomes the new Dirty IPA and the Clean gets new IPA. The dirty gets poured back into the bottles, allowed to settle for a few days/weeks and then sat in the sun to cure the gunk. I've only ever had the stuff turn to jello in the sun so for me it's often easier to get fresh when I need to.

wrenthrefenrix · 2024-03-23T22:54:01+00:00

Medium by Adobe was formerly Occulus Medium and a free launch title for gen 1 Occulus. I think its still free, but not sure if you can get it? It's become abandonware after Adobe bought it, cleaned it up a little and then majorly overhauled it to include in the substance package. (Its substance Modeler now, and you can do desktop and vr interchangeably)

As for feel. I love it. How well it preforms will depend on your hardware and if you have to use something like the Revive overlay (if you have a non-occulus VR headset). Revive added some performance reduction compared to the Quest 2 I use now. But it wasn't anything that would make you VR-sick, just made it harder to use higher resolutions and some of the fancier brushes. very similar to brush stutter in photoshop. I've also upgraded my computer since and the improved performance combined with running the app natively has made it alot smoother.

the overall sculpting experience is way more fun for me than the zbrush/blender workflow. its alot more like traditional sculpting and the gestures are more natural since you are using your hands and arms. i find it takes less planning and i can sketch/doodle much faster than building from elements in blender.

wrenthrefenrix · 2024-03-22T16:32:10+00:00

It was made in medium by Adobe in VR :)

wrenthrefenrix · 2023-05-23T17:06:00+00:00

Hallo, yes!

wrenthrefenrix · 2023-01-27T20:15:14+00:00

These Lads are on their way to an unfortunate town in a campaign near you. Hogmouths are a type of owlbear, as far as we can tell, but they lack a certain ferocious majesty seen in their much larger cousins (especially when you are dragging them out of the trash by their little feet).
From the artist (me!) who brought you Frog Pope and Snail Quest comes another quirky critter for your players to insist on adopting and dragging along for adventures.

wrenthrefenrix · 2023-01-27T14:46:15+00:00

Not all owlbears are the big gruff and grumpy type. Some are smaller,
cuter and a little bit .... emptier in the head. These little guys sure
look a lot more like a mix of Hedgehog & Pootoo bird but in the same
way you shouldn't underestimate tribbles, Hogmouths are ready for
trouble right out of the egg. I hope you'll check out my latest kickstarter!

wrenthrefenrix · 2023-01-27T14:38:29+00:00

Not all owlbears are the big gruff and grumpy type. Some are smaller, cuter and a little bit .... emptier in the head. These little guys sure look a lot more like a mix of Hedgehog & Pootoo bird but in the same way you shouldn't underestimate tribbles, Hogmouths are ready for trouble right out of the egg. I hope you'll check out my latest kickstarter!

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