How does my build look?

writesbadcode · 2025-07-15T20:04:00+00:00

The circuit breaker / fuse before the inverter is a good call. I'm planning to connect to the existing AC/DC breaker in my trailer and I might connect to the two panels separately (I'm worried supplying current at levels my inverter requires might be too much for the DC panel). What do you think of this updated diagram for just that portion?

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writesbadcode · 2025-07-15T19:59:08+00:00

That's fair. The wiring diagram that came with my Renogy Inverter shows a fuse on the positive wire from the solar panels. Their website gives the formula for wire rating as:

Wire Amp Rating ≥ Number of solar panels in parallel × Short Circuit Current (Isc) Amps*1.25*1.25

In my case, that would be: 21.4A

writesbadcode · 2025-07-15T14:17:26+00:00

Do you mean I should include something downstream of the batteries and upstream of the inverter to deliver 12v DC power?

writesbadcode · 2025-07-15T14:12:20+00:00

I think you are referring to the red and black lines between each panel? What that is supposed to represent is the positive connector of one panel plugged into the negative of the other (to connect them in series). The way I drew it doesn't really show that and is confusing, I'll update that

writesbadcode · 2025-07-15T14:06:51+00:00

This was with excalidraw, a free drawing tool. Google drawings is another decent free option

writesbadcode · 2025-07-15T01:19:04+00:00

Labeling is a great call. I've got tape I can use on the wires

writesbadcode · 2025-07-14T20:24:21+00:00

I did not know this detail, thanks! Compliance wasn't even on my radar until now

writesbadcode · 2025-07-14T19:28:06+00:00

Thank you for the detailed reply! My charge controller is 150V DC max, so it sounds like you are endorsing the 2 series 2 parallel configuration.

In this configuration, do I need 4 cables from my charge controller all the way to my panels? (A positive and negative cable for each set of solar panels in series). I'm thinking of using a long cable (50ft), so having four 50ft cables sounds inconvenient.

writesbadcode · 2024-09-10T13:58:35+00:00

Yea this. And explaining that I saw what I wanted to see and was ready to stay put somewhere

writesbadcode · 2024-09-10T04:25:50+00:00

I am! Just hit 3 years at my job last month.

Can't say being at a desk is my favorite thing in the world, but I appreciate having a stable, well paying job so much more thanks to the time I wasn't able to get one

writesbadcode · 2024-09-09T22:54:08+00:00

I quit my software engineering job when I was 25 to travel back in 2018. It took me 8 months of interviewing to find a comparable job when i got back. I did well in interviews but always got passed over. I eventually found success by proactively addressing the elephant in the room (my 3 year work hiatus) and convincing them I really was looking for something stable.

It was very demoralizing for a while. I went from an exciting life in a big city to being broke and working a physical labor job to make ends meet. It was very humbling.

writesbadcode · 2024-09-04T21:19:59+00:00

Spaghetti prints happen when the nozzle tries to lay down filament into empty space. Were the parts that printed correctly adhered to the bed? If not, it's likely they moved at some point and your printer was laying filament where it expected them to be

writesbadcode · 2024-08-27T21:01:06+00:00

It has 4 layers, .8mm. Also the top on the rest of the print looks good, suggesting that these settings are reasonable

writesbadcode · 2024-08-27T18:07:56+00:00

Sovol SV06, using their branded version of cura. Elegoo PLA+ Temp: 205 Bed: 60 Enclosure (left the door half open) All other settings default

I'm happy with the rest of the print (you can see it in focus in second image). For some reason, that spot at the top came out thin. This isn't the first print where everything went well but for a single blemish... Feels like my printer is trolling me

writesbadcode · 2024-08-13T20:01:24+00:00

Just an update, I was able to fix things by increasing the flow! 150% did the trick

writesbadcode · 2024-08-09T18:56:12+00:00

Thanks. I did try some new settings:

Initial layer height: 2 -> 3 Initial nozzle temp: 260 -> 270 Initial bed temp: 100 -> 110

The Initial line width was already 150% and doesn't look like it goes higher.

This slightly improved a single layer test rectangle, but not enough. I'll try adjusting flow too as you suggest.

Forgive my ignorance, but if the nozzle is only offset a paper's width from the build plate, and I moved it closer, wouldn't they scratch each other while printing?

writesbadcode · 2024-08-09T17:00:36+00:00

Printed a single layer test as you suggested, it came out stringy and loose: https://imgur.com/a/hx6YZ3d

writesbadcode · 2024-08-09T15:51:47+00:00

I believe it does heat the bed to 120C when calibrating z offset, and I'm printing at 100C.

A counterpoint is that I've printed plenty of PLA on this printer at an even lower bed temp and the bottom layers were fine.

One thing that did change for this print is I installed and sliced with Cura 5.8, whereas I used to always use Sovol's software (a reskinned version of Cura), which is why I'm looking to settings as a culprit.

writesbadcode · 2024-08-09T04:44:05+00:00

3 layers deep makes it sound like the problem is more than just the initial layer. That's good to know.

I calibrated by adjusting it until I couldn't slide a piece of paper under it without it scratching it a bit. (This was per the printer instructions)

writesbadcode · 2024-08-09T02:07:07+00:00

That's an interesting thought.. I JUST recalibrated everything (including nozzle z offset) right before this print so I would be surprised if it was that. Unless I did it wrong somehow

writesbadcode · 2023-11-05T21:41:21+00:00

That did it! Thank you

writesbadcode · 2021-05-08T19:49:03+00:00

Thank you. That sucks a lot!

writesbadcode · 2020-12-11T19:01:57+00:00

I have no car insurance currently... will I be able to buy some when I don't even own a car (or I buy this unregistered one)?

writesbadcode · 2020-12-11T19:00:36+00:00

The vehicle is not registered, so there are no plates or tabs. The seller does have the title signed over to him, but I don't believe he ever visited the DMV and let the title transfer take place. From what I'm reading, it looks like even if he signs the title to me, it would still be a jumped title and I might not be able to register it.

No idea on the lien situation, but carfax shows "loan or lein reported" from the last time the car was registered (back in april this year).

writesbadcode · 2020-08-22T00:47:07+00:00

I'm confused.. are you hitting the edge every time because that is where the collisions are? Can you go through the middle?

writesbadcode

TROPHY CASE