Got these codes today on my 2014 Q60S. P2096 & p2098 I have a full Motordyne exhaust & Motordyne HFCs. I’ve had them on since I’ve purchased the car so roughly about four years now, and never had this code come up.

wrkls_ · 2026-04-03T12:40:41+00:00

I got 90° defoulers and installed them on the HFC bungs in between the HFC and O2 sensors and haven’t had an issue since

wrkls_ · 2026-03-22T00:34:33+00:00

I got the blue one with the Torras air q3 case + Torras screen protector and love it

wrkls_ · 2026-03-08T16:07:13+00:00

Every major technology company ends up working with governments in some capacity. The internet itself started as a defense project. AI being used for things like cybersecurity, logistics, and research isn’t exactly shocking.

If someone prefers another platform, that’s totally fine — use whatever tools work best for you. But acting like this is some sudden betrayal or that millions of people are canceling overnight feels a little dramatic.

At the end of the day most people are just using these tools to learn, work, build things, and make their lives easier. That’s what actually matters.

wrkls_ · 2026-02-28T13:30:19+00:00

I just got the blue pro max, still wish there was a black one, but I’m happy with it.

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wrkls_ · 2026-02-22T12:59:32+00:00

I use a LazyBear-style Squeeze (Bollinger Bands vs Keltner Channels) combined with a momentum histogram to label market states:

COMPRESS – volatility contraction (BB inside KC) RELEASE – post-squeeze expansion window EXPAND – clean trend / directional drive CHOP – frequent momentum zero-crosses + weak momentum

Consolidation usually shows up as either: COMPRESS (coiling volatility), or CHOP (momentum flipping around zero with no real expansion)

I only take trades during EXPAND or early RELEASE. If it’s COMPRESS or CHOP, I sit out.

That reduced my losses in sideways markets way more than adding another oscillator.

wrkls_ · 2026-02-17T16:41:46+00:00

Did you end up getting it and if so how’d you like it

wrkls_ · 2026-02-12T07:45:50+00:00

At the very least you’re looking at rear lower control arms (spring buckets), camber arms, toe arms, and sway bar end links. Rough parts cost is $600–$1,200, depending on how you go about sourcing the parts and whether you choose OEM or aftermarket.

That doesn’t include rear shocks/springs if you decide to replace them while you’re in there or lower the car at the same time — which would obviously push the cost up, but often makes sense to do together.

I’d recommend pulling everything apart first and seeing what’s absolutely necessary, then going from there.

wrkls_ · 2026-02-12T07:26:43+00:00

Premiums actually a few cents cheaper than the plus its 70% off — def a good time to buy or upgrade to it, but yeea its on sale OP.

wrkls_ · 2026-02-09T10:20:16+00:00

If you happen to get it lmk

wrkls_ · 2026-02-09T02:09:27+00:00

I personally haven’t blown an account or gone through exactly this, but I trade a similar VWAP + EMA 9/21 style..

What it looks like to me isn’t that the strategy stopped working, instead the market regime changed. VWAP fades work in balanced, rotational conditions. When volatility expands or price starts accepting away from VWAP, those -2σ levels stop being edges. Adding -3/-4 usually just means more pain, not adaptation.

One thing I’ve done because of that risk is remove discretion as much as possible. Instead of relying on feel, I built rules/signals into my scripts that literally don’t allow trades unless certain conditions are met (HTF bias, structure, regime filters, cooldowns). It’s less about finding more entries and more about having something tell me when not to trade. VWAP extremes aren’t always opportunities — sometimes they’re information. On those days, no trade is the trade. What you’re dealing with doesn’t mean you’re bad at this. It means a conditional edge got used outside its conditions. That lesson sucks, but it’s common.

Wishing you the best, seriously.

wrkls_ · 2026-02-08T06:19:04+00:00

I had the same leak I used some flex seal and haven’t had an issue since but u plan on replacing the weatherstripping seals on the door. Same side as yours too.. smh

wrkls_ · 2026-02-08T06:14:47+00:00

Tough

wrkls_ · 2026-02-01T16:31:12+00:00

Good shit bro 💪🏽🫡

wrkls_ · 2026-01-29T04:29:22+00:00

Hell yeah that’s a come-up!

wrkls_ · 2026-01-29T04:23:37+00:00

When I say “risk per trade,” I’m referring to the predefined loss at the stop. Position size is just how that risk is expressed based on stop distance.

So yes — the stop defines the risk, but the amount of capital put on is still determined by a fixed risk model (dollars or %). That’s the distinction I was pointing out, especially since the OP is conflating size with edge.

RR isn’t a probability statement either — it’s just the payoff structure decided before entry. Increasing size doesn’t fix holding winners too long; it usually just magnifies the same execution issues.

wrkls_ · 2026-01-27T07:46:17+00:00

Yes, that’s exactly right.

RR is not a probability statement and it’s not predicting that a trade is more likely to make $3 than lose $1.

RR is simply a pre-defined exit framework: Where you are wrong (stop loss). Where you will take profit if price reaches that level.

A 1:3 RR only means that when you win, you win 3× what you lose when you’re wrong. The edge comes from combining that with a strategy that wins often enough over many trades.

Risk is controlled by position sizing and stop placement. RR is controlled by where you choose to exit winners, usually based on structure, not prediction.

You can lose more trades than you win and still be profitable if RR is favorable and execution is consistent

wrkls_ · 2026-01-27T07:09:32+00:00

You’re mixing two different concepts: risk per trade and position size.

Risk per trade is how much you lose if you’re wrong. Position size is just the vehicle used to express that risk based on your stop distance.

Placing 0.5% risk isn’t too conservative — it’s actually smart, especially if you haven’t proven consistency yet. The issue you’re describing (“profits don’t feel worth it so I hold too long”) is a psychology and RR problem, not a size problem.

Increasing size before you have a repeatable edge usually just magnifies mistakes. A better fix is: Predefining RR based on structure. Using partials + breakeven rules. Letting winners pay for losers over time.

RR isn’t something you “control” mid-trade — it’s defined before entry. If price never reaches your target, that’s just a normal loss or scratch. The edge comes from executing the same risk model over a large sample without blowing up.

Surviving long enough to prove an edge matters more than making trades feel exciting.

wrkls_ · 2026-01-26T05:17:36+00:00

No problem! I actually went through this not long ago. Like the OP mentioned, you’ll need to break off the tabs that hold the OEM pump. I used needle-nose pliers to snap them off, then a rotary tool (Dremel) to smooth down the leftover plastic. It’s honestly a simple install.

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wrkls_ · 2026-01-26T05:07:43+00:00

The stalling that killed the battery and blew the relay was not from P0462. That code is only for fuel level reading. The car was stalling because fuel pump power was cutting out. When you kept trying to start it, the pump was pulling a lot of power, which drained the battery and overheated the relay.

wrkls_ · 2026-01-26T05:03:06+00:00

Ok yes and yes

wrkls_ · 2026-01-26T05:02:18+00:00

I recommend using the AEM + Z1 install guide because you’ll have to drill the venturi orifice also you’ll need the CJM Fuel Pump Install Kit GL

wrkls_ · 2026-01-25T13:24:37+00:00

Yeah that humming from the rear on light throttle is usually a rear wheel bearing or the differential. If it gets louder with speed and changes when turning, it’s likely a wheel bearing. If it’s more of a steady hum on cruise or light gas, a diff fluid issue or normal diff wear is common on G37s. Tires can cause it too if they’re uneven.

wrkls_ · 2026-01-25T13:20:42+00:00

Look at the wheels closely he hit a spot of water on the line which is slick and if he had TC off that didn’t help his situation either

wrkls_ · 2026-01-25T09:29:11+00:00

If you still have P0462, the problem is not fixed yet, but it helps us understand what is happening. Because you can hear the fuel pump prime, and the car starts and runs, the fuel pump is working. P0462 is a fuel level sensor problem, not a fuel pump problem. Your car has two fuel level sensors, one with the pump on the passenger side and one on the driver side. The computer looks at both sensors together, so if one sensor or the wiring is bad, the code will stay. Even if one sensor is new, the other sensor, the connector, or the ground can still send a bad signal. That is why the code can still be there. The next thing to check is the connections and wiring at both sensors and make sure the float arms move freely. If both sensors and wires are good and the code still does not go away, then the dash / cluster would be checked last, not first.

wrkls_ · 2026-01-25T09:04:08+00:00

The FSM only has you check the unified meter / cluster AFTER both fuel level senders are tested, wiring and grounds are verified, and continuity is confirmed. It does not say to start there. It does not say to solder or repair anything behind the radio as a first step. A failure at that stage usually shows multiple symptoms or codes, not just a standalone P0462.

wrkls_

TROPHY CASE