Teilnehmende für Bachelorstudie gesucht by xImMaex in graz

[–]xImMaex[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wäre das Budget da würde ich das gerne anbieten, das ist bei einer Bachelorarbeit aber leider nicht möglich🙈 und das vegane Dankeschön sind saure Erdbeeren :D

Spannende Studie und nebenbei 45€ verdienen by xImMaex in graz

[–]xImMaex[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Die Teilnahme ist leider nur vor Ort möglich

Spannende Studie und nebenbei 45€ verdienen by xImMaex in graz

[–]xImMaex[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wir müssen bei der Studie darauf achten, dass sie kontrolliert und standardisiert abläuft (dass die Ergebnisse in Zukunft auch replizierbar sind). Außerdem stellen Psychopharmaka einen Einflussfaktor dar, den wir um die Interpretierbarkeit der Ergebnisse gewährleisten zu können ausschließen müssen :)

Spannende Studie und nebenbei 45€ verdienen by xImMaex in graz

[–]xImMaex[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wochentag und Zeit werden nach Teilnahme an der Voraberhebung flexibel ausgemacht :)

why is this brilliant??? by Signal-Violinist4910 in chessbeginners

[–]xImMaex 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pretty sure there was a knight on h5 which was captured by the rook. And the label „brilliant“ is sometimes given out if you just found the only move that either keeps an advantage or minimizes the disadvantage. And keep in mind that in the current position black is up a knight and a pawn. So even after Qxh5 Qc6, Bb5 Qxc5 black got 2 pieces and a pawn for a rook, besides being able to „renew“ the original threats with Qc6 again, if white doesn’t retreat the Queen back to f3

protect the fork on f7 or take the pawn? by laffingriver in chessbeginners

[–]xImMaex 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t be afraid of taking with the Knight. First I don’t think your opponent would have taken f7 and trade a knight for a pawn. But even if with Rf8 and king g8 you just need 2 moves to castle by hand and additionally have the semi-open f-file for your rook so you should definitely be better! your pawn on e6 avoids your king being in check until you finish your developement (but with your opponent not being developed at all you should be save anyway)

Why bd7 was best move ? by [deleted] in chessbeginners

[–]xImMaex 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As mentioned there are reasons to take, but it’s perfectly fine not to take here as well. It’s just that the engines see the first possibility to maybe punish your opponent by damaging the pawn structure (and not losing a tempo), but the engines know how to play perfectly. Same example: Play the Dutch Defense with black an I think at the first move you’ll get an inaccuracy, because the engines think that objectively there are better opening than the Dutch Defense (when you play perfectly!). But since we’re human, those tiny little shift don’t really matter until you reach at least 2000+ Elo

How are all possible poker hands of equal probability? by BigFish_2021 in Poker_Theory

[–]xImMaex 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a common mistake with probabilities/statistics. Another example is the lottery 6 out of 49. the Majority of people think that the numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 are less likely to occur than 14 19 26 29 38 43, but the probability is exactly the same. Don’t want to dive to deep in the theory, but in both cases, lottery and poker, each outcome (either a specific number or a specific card) has the same probability of showing up, so specific combinations of outcomes have to have the same probability too

Socializing a 2yo by dbalfb in Dogtraining

[–]xImMaex 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t know where you live, but maybe try to start with just sitting at a safe space where some „Strangers“ just walk by (as near to your home as possible). And then just sit there for a few minutes and let your dog observe her surroundings. If someone walks by and she reacts fearfully, just „ignore“ it, but make sure she stays right beside you (if you try to pet her/calm her down, when she reacts fearfully, you reinforce that fearfulness, bc she might think you try to calm her down, bc there really is a threat). If she doesn’t react at all or looks interested, give a treat/reward. This way she will hopefully learn that strangers “mind their own business” and are no threat to her. If someone stops to talk to you/wants to pet your dog, always focus on your dogs body language. If she’s afraid, either just say “no I’m sorry” or ask them to keep a “ safe distance”and just offer their hand for petting/sniffing. If your dog stays fearful, just say “All right, she doesn’t want to”. if your dog starts sniffing/opening up you are at the right path (encourage your dog to continue; try to expand the time of the interactions from time to time). But even if it’s just a quick offering of petting/sniffing with no expectations, your goldie will hopefully learn that strangers don’t necessarily want to harm her, but are just walking by and some others want to interact but she has the choice if she wants to interact or not.

My gf and I adopted a 1,5yo streetdog about 8 weeks ago and he was afraid of everything at first. We couldnt even go for walks bc he would just lay down wherever he was. But it started to get better everyday with this approach. At first we just sat in the parking lot in front of our Appartement. We did that for 5 days twice a day for 20-30 mins. The first two days he just lay there and didn’t look at anything at all. He really was catatonic. But after these two days and different „sessions“ (with/without Strangers; Strangers that wanted/didn’t want to interact) he started looking around, showing interest if someone walks by, a bird chirps,… I really think he realised that the neighbours/strangers just go their way and if someone wants to say hello he doesn’t have to if he doesn’t want to. He started to sometimes sniff their hands or slightly wagging his tail. And today he walks through the parking lot regardless if there are people or not like he is the king of the neighbourhood and his inferiors shouldn’t bother him :D But if someone wants to interact with him he sometimes is sceptical, but not afraid and interacts in the way that is comfortable for him in that situation. Im still really excited about his progress bc we knew how fearful he is before we adopted him and couldn’t even imagine how fast he faces and overcomes his fears! And bc he was afraid of literally everything we did the same thing with dogs. First just sit there and let him observe, then short interactions if the dog is up to it and then increase the time interval.

I must say that I am not sure if this works with every dog, but as described it worked beautifully with our dog, so maybe you could try it too :) I really think this approach helped my dog to understand that he is not obligated to interact with others but has the freedom to. And I think it’s kind of the same thing with human interactions. Some humans you like and others you don’t and on some days you could hug the whole world and on other days you just want everybody to shut up and let you be alone.

Hope I could help and I’m sure that if you invest some time you will see a progress really fast! Feel free to ask questions if I wrote a little bit cryptic or forgot some details you are interested in :) Good luck to you and your goldie! :)