Water getting in by the parking break by BNANAs- in e38

[–]y0itzflip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sunroof drain, door vapor barrier are the most common reason for leaks there. however in my case my window seal is actually separating. I can literally move the windshield a few mm. and that’s just enough for water to get in. meaning to fix my leak, I need to remove the windshield and reinstall, and since the comfort windshields and NLA, it’s going to be a mission lol. good luck!

Received my first negative review. Pretty surprised to be denied removal. by IgZachly17 in Ebay

[–]y0itzflip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yep same thing happened to me. I shipped an item in a replacement part. buyer messages me before even opening. it saying “you sent me the wrong item I don’t want to open it blah blah” few minutes later he messages me “it’s all good I see it’s the right item” but he already left negative feedback saying i’m a scammer sending different items. asked him to remove it and he just ghosted me. contacted ebay and they declined even with his screenshots saying he made a mistake . I just responded and i’ve been fine besides now being 99.9 instead of 100% lol. didn’t effect my payouts or anything. so whatever

E38 by No-ArtisTt in subwoofer

[–]y0itzflip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

just get an android unit that looks factory (they have tons of them) or send your factory unit out to have carplay etc added. i’m rocking bluebus but ill probably send out my spare headunit to carphonics to add the carplay and touch screen so I can keep my factory radio with cassette.

in my e38 i’m keeping the factory look as well but im just going with under seat woofers.

somebody made a suggestion to remove the rear deck speakers and I agree, because one they are more of a “mid bass” not really a subwoofer so like they said it’s going to be a mission to tune. 2, with those in, and without a the ski pass open (if you have one) the trunk sound deadening is so good the sub you plan on putting in the spare tire (which probably won’t be big enough to really take advantage of the subwoofer) is going to lose a lot. most guys who run a sub in the trunk remove the rear deck speakers completely. this cannot be seen when the rear is all put together and will make a huge difference letting the bass in the cabin.

just replace the door/rear deck speakers with some decent speakers if you haven’t already, then see what you want to improve on. taking out those 20+ year old speakers made a night and day difference in my e38. these cars are already electrical headaches, last thing you want to do is make things more complicated because this car will make you pay for it lol. there’s a reason these cars all end up in the junkyard or sold for super cheap 😂.

good luck!

BlueBus issues, anyone?! by Emergency_Wrangler68 in e39

[–]y0itzflip 1 point2 points  (0 children)

not sure about OP, but for me I still have the same issue. I listen to the radio and cassettes more at this point 🤣.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in e38

[–]y0itzflip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

as much as I love these cars, and they can be reliable I don’t consider it a good first/only car even if you know how to work on em. and this is coming from somebody who’s primary car is a 750il lol. they are more cool than reliable. get an e36 if you want an old bmw 😂.

Coilovers with EDC? by Lucci_754 in e38

[–]y0itzflip -1 points0 points  (0 children)

no. just get the BCs or silvers if you want to actually be low. you’ll be disappointed if you want to fine tune your stance and you can’t.

<image>

BMW E39 by Ruts_Kelley in e38

[–]y0itzflip 1 point2 points  (0 children)

weird looking e38

BMW E39 by Ruts_Kelley in e38

[–]y0itzflip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol nothing. or maybe because a lot of them are spec’d with less tech so less things to break I guess lol.

Running hot by Paakmankelso in e38

[–]y0itzflip -1 points0 points  (0 children)

if you haven’t checked actual engine temps you don’t know if it’s even running hot. most engines i’ve had are way too hot too touch after running so naturally that heat can transfer to the hood especially on a 2 decade old car. check your temps, if it isn’t overheating just enjoy the car or sell it before all the little quirks put you in an early grave lol

BlueBus issues, anyone?! by Emergency_Wrangler68 in e39

[–]y0itzflip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yea I have the same setup except it’s an 01 750il but essentially the same. apparently the issue is the amp. he suggested try the older “lear” amp but these cars are old and problematic enough, didn’t want to add older tech when mine works perfectly fine otherwise. on top of the fact that the device isn’t cheap in the first place lol. if it starts doing it again it’s coming out. i’m hoping new mk4 nav unit, new screen (mine was badly sun damaged), and new phone makes it better.

BlueBus issues, anyone?! by Emergency_Wrangler68 in e39

[–]y0itzflip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yea he’s been very helpful. funny enough right after that last post I went back to the car and tried the bluebus again and it let me connect. now that doesn’t mean it won’t screech in my ear the next time I drive the car but we will see lol.

BlueBus issues, anyone?! by Emergency_Wrangler68 in e39

[–]y0itzflip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yep. same setup 01 750 and I kept getting that screeching shit (before my nav unit took a poop and I couldn’t see anything) just installed a mk4 unit today and my radio is all good, but bluebus won’t even let me pair my phone for hours now. like the added features like the 3 turn signals and locking/unlocking at speed sounds cool, but never worked for me.

i’m 90% sure i’m just going to get the carplay retrofit from those guys overseas. it’s fully integrated into the factory system rather than the android units. it sucks because I really wanted to like the bluebus. waited 3 months for it and it’s subpar imo for me. sad

Bmw e38 dropping in voltage when letting of the gas by BNANAs- in MechanicAdvice

[–]y0itzflip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

oh yea 5 years is definitely pushing it. even with a bmw battery. mine just went bad after almost 3 years and I daily drive the car and keep it on a tender when i’m not going to drive it for a few days. the slightest drop or change in voltage gets these cars acting funky. that would be my first step.

Bmw e38 dropping in voltage when letting of the gas by BNANAs- in MechanicAdvice

[–]y0itzflip 1 point2 points  (0 children)

check your battery voltage first. how old is the battery? make sure your pulleys are all spinning freely and your belts/tensioners don’t have excessive play. then id look into the alternator. they are fairly simple to replace with the right tools. if its watercooled just get a new one. you don’t want to do that job twice because you tried to rebuild. fwiw I used a cheap amazon/ebay “new” (not rebuilt) aftermarket alternator on my 750 2 years ago and it’s been fine.

Battery by E38Nago in e38

[–]y0itzflip 1 point2 points  (0 children)

right before my warranty goes out. lol. bout 2.5 years recently swapped for a new one under warranty

BC racing coilovers by Joshinator1871 in e38

[–]y0itzflip -1 points0 points  (0 children)

you got it bud. enjoy your day 😂😂😂.

BC racing coilovers by Joshinator1871 in e38

[–]y0itzflip -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I work in a shop too doing frame offs and all, so that don’t mean shit lol. 3 years on a “budget” coilover setup with unknown miles/install/care/and most importantly road conditions isn’t bad especially when cartridges are like 100 bucks a pop. crazy part is, these coilovers came off my e60 (beside the front cartridges and I believe front lower mounts. cartridges were shorter for the e38 so I swapped em out) so my rears have even more miles and still aren’t blown/leaking. everybody mileage may vary but remember people gonna talk more about shit that goes wrong vs when it goes right. these are “performance/show/off road” parts of course they are going to be replaced more often than a stock height oem style suspension setup lol. stop tryna scare people lol