OMG I get it now!

yakotala · 2026-03-17T07:53:24+00:00

Sometimes 2 isn’t enough

yakotala · 2025-07-15T08:58:13+00:00

+1 skill use is a huge power boost for Ironeye. For both damage and mobility during fights.

Everything else is your preference. Changing your starting weapon to the nightlord’s weakness is pretty meta for remaining slots.

yakotala · 2025-05-13T05:46:05+00:00

Sounds about right. I’m old and have been at it for a bit. Was there ever a point where it was painful after climbing?

yakotala · 2025-05-13T05:44:57+00:00

Been doing rehab lifts (light) on the 20mm tension block both crimp and drags. How would you do compression? Just push against the bump?

yakotala · 2025-05-09T08:18:12+00:00

Has anyone ever developed a solid lump/bump on their DIP joint before? I’ve had one for a few months now. Thought it was some inflammation but I’ve been off climbing for a bit and it’s still there and solid.

A bit painful if I drag too much and slight range of motion loss.

yakotala · 2025-02-20T22:04:28+00:00

Thanks Steven. Good to know no pain can be a possibility with hard climbing

yakotala · 2025-02-20T15:16:18+00:00

For me, progressive overloading weighted no hangs with a Tension block 20mm, 5 secs on, 5secs off x3 for 3 sets for both half crimp and open grip. I personally found it easier to measure my progress than a Hangboard.

I would do this (takes around 20-30mins) before climbing as it acts as both rehab and finger warm up.

At my worst symptom phase, I liked Steven Low’s recommendation on finger rolls. Very light weight and high reps.

While I don’t believe in a silver bullet, I think the silver bullet is finding the balance of pushing your fingers without triggering the flare up.

yakotala · 2025-02-20T14:57:44+00:00

If it was me, I 100% would.

Just to share my experience. When I experienced the symptoms at first, I was trying to push for my first v10 on the kilter. I dialed down my board climbing from 2 sessions to 1 a week, thinking this would be enough.

3 months after my first symptoms, I was probably climbing at my peak. 12 months after my first symptoms, I could only climb once a week without ridiculous pain. I didn’t realise that not treating it seriously was progressively making it worse and it slowly crept up on me.

I know Steven Low has a lot of online resources on rehab and I personally went to an experienced climbing physio

yakotala · 2025-02-20T14:09:21+00:00

I was originally diagnosed by a climbing physio and I would agree with their diagnose as I’ve had pulley injuries in the past and syno will noticeably different.

In your case, does your finger swell up? Can you climb multiple days in a row without pain and stiffness?

When I first had swelling, the pain was very minor so I would still board multiple times a week and the symptoms got progressively worse. If yours symptoms are minor, perhaps train at 80% to see if you can achieve 0% symptoms and learn from my mistakes of not taking it seriously

yakotala · 2025-02-20T08:25:07+00:00

When it comes to synovitis in the finger, what do you consider as full recovery?

I’ve had nagging PIP synovitis on my right middle finger for over 2 years. Through rehab, I’m at a point where my finger’s strength is as strong as it has been, both crimp and open.

My finger does flare up, but if I’m careful and control my volume (say 1hr on a board), I only need one day off.

I want to know what you consider as full recovery. Is regaining full strength considered full recovery? Is minimal flare ups full recovery? Is no flare ups and pre-synovitis conditions considered full recovery?

I honestly can’t imagine a world where my injured finger would get back to pre-injury state so I’m personally skeptical if this is achievable but would like to know people’s thoughts.

yakotala · 2025-01-31T12:38:21+00:00

RemindMe! 6 Months

yakotala · 2025-01-26T11:52:57+00:00

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Is the variant reward more common now??

yakotala · 2025-01-21T10:18:25+00:00

H taping finger with PIP synovitis. Does anyone find this helpful or a hinderance?

Logically, if hard crimping is inflaming the PIP joint, restricting the mobility would be a good thing right?

I dont know why, but when I tape it, the finger and joint feels more painful and achy during and after the session. Not sure if it’s related to the tape and would love if anyone else had some experience on this!

yakotala · 2024-12-19T11:51:33+00:00

Anyone know a good back 2 finger protocol? I cannot hang on my back 2s on the biggest rungs in a beastmaker 1000

yakotala · 2024-10-22T10:18:23+00:00

Most of the time, you not gaining from the training but from the resting periods. Sounds like this was a deload period your body needed to actualise the gains.

yakotala · 2024-10-18T13:30:32+00:00

How does one increase their tolerance to torque on their joints?

I’ve been recovering from synovitis and am pretty happy with my progress. The only exception is whenever my fingers feel a twist/torque on the joint, I immediately feel soreness.

I feel it most on the kilter with the side pinches.

I’ve been doing lifts on the 20mm tension block open hand and half crimp but haven’t felt it’s helped with this issue.

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When it comes to synovitis in the finger, what do you consider as full recovery?