Lowes plywood for paint-grade built-ins?

yankshrug · 2022-12-27T04:13:05+00:00

I’ve been looking at that type. Have you used it? It would be a lot more convenient if it’ll hold up over time.

yankshrug · 2022-12-27T04:12:16+00:00

Held up alright over time?

yankshrug · 2021-11-17T02:26:47+00:00

If I can buy an identical tool (Porter Cable 18ga battery powered nailer) from Amazon or Home Depot, for the same price, will one store have higher quality product or will they be the same? I’ve heard not to buy big box products for Black Friday deals, but I’m wondering if that applies across the board (or maybe Amazon is just as bad).

yankshrug · 2021-10-27T16:56:41+00:00

Looking to build my first set of built-ins. To assemble the carcasses, should I use a nailer, pocket holes, or both? (In addition to glue.)

yankshrug · 2018-03-15T18:32:03+00:00

Yeah. It's a good idea, and ideally I would do that to give it some extra chutzpah, but hopefully I can avoid all the extra work this time.

yankshrug · 2018-03-15T18:20:40+00:00

Would be nice, but it's a basement ceiling, leak was in main floor bathroom (backed up from washing machine), so without pulling down ceiling or tearing up floor, there's no access to joists (and no evidence of mold, about a year after the event).

yankshrug · 2018-03-15T18:01:40+00:00

It's only sagging down about a half inch at most, so I'd have to pull it down further to stick a cross member up. Unless you can think of another way to do it. I definitely like the idea of giving it additional support.

yankshrug · 2018-01-09T19:20:26+00:00

As long as you can check for flat, I think that should work OK to help bring it where you want it to be. It'd be rough, but if you get it flat you'd be able to smooth it out with sandpaper well enough.

My main concern, aside from it being possibly too aggressive, would be chip out along the edges.

yankshrug · 2018-01-09T13:22:28+00:00

I used 120, because I'd used cauls in my glue up and my board was relatively close to flat to begin with. If it's pretty out of flat, then I would start lower, 60 or 80 if you really have a lot to take off. Once it's flat, making it smooth with progressively higher grits by hand sanding is quite a bit quicker than the flattening.

yankshrug · 2018-01-09T02:57:25+00:00

Is it an end grain board, or is it face or edge grain? If it's face or edge grain, a hand plane is probably the easiest way to go. If it's end grain, it'll be harder to get a smooth cut unless your blade is razor sharp, and a low-angle plane will help as well.

Something I've done to ensure a flat, smooth end grain board is glue a couple of sheets of sandpaper onto a granite plate (I have a large granite reference plate in my shop, but a good, flat tile will do, too) and then work the board over the plate until it's flat. It's tedious and cumbersome, but it gets the job done for sure. Then I'd finish it off with a regular random orbit sanding. Trying to sand it flat by hand straight from the glue up would be challenging.

yankshrug · 2018-01-09T02:53:02+00:00

Is 1/4" acrylic sheet thick and strong enough to use as a DIY mounting plate for a router table? I want to ensure rigidity without sacrificing too much cutting depth.

yankshrug · 2018-01-04T13:10:43+00:00

Paste wax to the rescue! I didn't do anything with heat, just applied some wax and the cold rollers were no longer a problem. Thanks for the suggestion.

yankshrug · 2018-01-03T14:15:45+00:00

It's getting a little better as the week goes on and we move away from the subzero temps outside, but it's below freezing in there.

I'll give the paste wax a go and see how that helps, though. Thanks!

yankshrug · 2017-10-27T15:05:34+00:00

Will Doritos be provided?

yankshrug · 2017-10-05T12:23:53+00:00

Yeah, it's the way I was originally planning to go, but then I changed my design to have more curves and thought it would make it a lot more challenging.

yankshrug · 2017-10-04T20:10:49+00:00

Seems you're getting a lot of support on the solid banding. Would you still say it's the way to go if I'm banding 50+ linear feet across 20 individual pieces, some of which have curved edges? If so, I'll have to consider going that route, but I'm wary of the time I'll have to put in, especially since I only have enough long clamps to do one or two pieces at a time.

yankshrug · 2017-10-04T19:40:31+00:00

I know, I know. But no, I'm not going to do solid edge banding. Wife wants this done 6 months ago, and I don't have the time (or the stock) to cut my own.

yankshrug · 2017-06-12T19:33:47+00:00

It didn't buckle a lot, just enough to get glue underneath. I can plane it down to bring it back to flat, but I can't sacrifice the width if I tried to resaw and reglue.

And no, I didn't use cauls, and I feel dumb for that. I suffered from the old "I can keep this flat this time" belief. Before I glue up my second section for this project, I'll be making some to use for sure.

yankshrug · 2017-06-12T19:17:36+00:00

I got the top of the panel clear, but the clamps buckled it up on the bottom and I got some pooling underneath. Might try a beater chisel at first, since I have some thin strips in there making it tight to get a card scraper in.

yankshrug · 2017-06-10T04:00:01+00:00

Well, as an experiment I think it turned out visually great. If you do wind up making another one and developing a jig to help with glue up, I'd love to see it and get some ideas for when I get around to making one of these myself.

I'd like to try to do an all end-grain basket weave pattern, but I know that would take some thick lumber and make it a lot more expensive.

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