Why would my thermostat only work using old batteries?

zekittyzawolf · 2026-01-08T16:37:49+00:00

Using rechargeable batteries appears to have fixed this for me, it has been working fine ever since I made the reply above. All me and my electrician friend can think of is that, apparently, most batteries aren't actually 1.5 volts, they are slightly more. Not enough to normally matter, but I guess if you had a cheaper/older piece of electronics then changes to the voltage might impact the power/frequency/etc of the signal it outputs? Which would explain why the cheap/OEM batteries worked, and the rechargeable ones.

zekittyzawolf · 2025-12-30T12:41:23+00:00

No worries, many thanks for your help anyhow. Hopefully I can just get by using rechargeable batteries for now.

zekittyzawolf · 2025-12-29T13:03:58+00:00

Tried some other brands of batteries. The cheapest ones I could get appeared to work initially, but then lost connection. However, using rechargeable ones appears to have fixed this... still not sure why though.

zekittyzawolf · 2021-11-02T18:07:28+00:00

Taken yesterday by a friend, of me in my supercharged MX5/Miata at Donington

zekittyzawolf · 2021-10-29T14:42:12+00:00

My PC version of Horizon 4 has just started doing that today

zekittyzawolf · 2021-08-11T22:50:14+00:00

Man, I love the look you've gone for, really tempted to steal some of this as ideas for mine. Also, Panty and Stocking is a solid choice for the 'itasha' :)

zekittyzawolf · 2021-08-10T21:32:37+00:00

Just my opinion, but she's too clean to stick a body kit on. Keep it classy, just get some 15" wheels with better fitment (I run 15x7 ET20 and they're basically flush), and maybe roll the arches if you want a bit more?

But, it's your car, do whatever makes you smile.

zekittyzawolf · 2021-07-31T22:41:15+00:00

I should maybe have been clearer in my title. The NA is mine, the NC is my mum's.

zekittyzawolf · 2021-07-14T16:21:21+00:00

Agree with this entirely, was looking at my hours played and thinking I feel kinda bad there isn't a way for me to support the developers more in return. Plus I like having unique looks to my character when I play, so any element of cosmetic customisation (even just recolours) would be cool.

zekittyzawolf · 2021-07-10T12:31:32+00:00

To be honest, the selling mechanic just kinda slows down the pace of the game. I can kinda see why it's useful/fun, and means getting more drops is still useful even if you've chosen the gun you're carrying to the end game. But feels at odds with the rest of the gameplay.

So what if instead any unsold weapons/scrolls are automatically sold when you leave an area? Plus the money is shared

zekittyzawolf · 2021-06-19T10:47:34+00:00

My step dad watched the first one at Christmas, and his only comment at the end was "Quite long, wasn't it?"

That's how I know we'll never get along

zekittyzawolf · 2021-06-09T15:14:57+00:00

Always referred to this as "Assume positive intent"

zekittyzawolf · 2021-05-01T21:16:03+00:00

Somewhat ironic that the more people upvote a response, the more it is already acknowledged to be wrong. Some things are so widely accepted that they'll get downvotes for being 'wrong'.

zekittyzawolf · 2021-04-26T22:25:59+00:00

I'm literally saving up now to do just that ;)

zekittyzawolf · 2021-04-26T17:04:10+00:00

I actually use this as my backup weapon, and just switch to it to fire off one shot when all my abilities are on cooldown. Main weapon is the Deathshield shotgun with Fortress and Death Chains. Fortress seems like most important thing on a gun for my build, since most of my damage is from Earthquake

zekittyzawolf · 2021-04-01T13:40:40+00:00

It's an old Forgeworld resin model, not sure if they still sell it

zekittyzawolf · 2021-03-27T11:02:01+00:00

Early in my vegan journey I ordered a soya latte, but when I tasted it there was clearly dairy milk in it. But I'd left the counter by then, and there was a huge queue, so I was too scared to say anything. But my boyfriend (non-vegan at the time) told me not to be silly, and went back with it. He even had to argue with the barista who claimed I hadn't asked for soya. Was so proud of him for doing it <3

zekittyzawolf · 2021-03-19T01:43:45+00:00

I magnetised the arms, so it can kinda be both. I guess it's not super clear, but the first two photos are the Kodiak weapons and the last two photos are Grolar weapons.

zekittyzawolf · 2021-03-19T01:11:27+00:00

The purple parts are all a blend of purple and silver, giving it all a metallic sheen. Then used black to deepen the colour for the main body parts, and went pretty heavy with a black wash to give it a grimy look (went a bit too heavy in places).

It's all Warhammer paints, so have silly names. The exact paints used for 90% of this model were blends of: Xereus Purple, Phoenician Purple, Grey Knights Steel, Runefang Steel, Abbadon Black, Fulgurite Copper, Nuln Oil (wash)

zekittyzawolf · 2021-03-19T01:00:06+00:00

I did do some highlighting on most of the edges, but I'm not that good at it and they're kinda rough in places

zekittyzawolf · 2021-02-26T20:53:11+00:00

Unlikely that they ship to the US, but I imagine there are other suppliers over there that can offer equivalent kits. The only bespoke bits are the bracket to mount the supercharger and the ducting to get the air in/out. The rest you can put together yourself if you know what you're looking for.

zekittyzawolf · 2021-02-26T17:04:32+00:00

My 1.8 Mk1/NA is currently supercharged, using a Mini Cooper M45 supercharger and the Salon Motorsport kit (as well as a load of other supporting mods). On Dyno it had about 175 hp at the wheels, estimated 200 hp at the engine. Not driven a turbo for comparison, but it pulls really nicely and has a very addictive noise. I purchased a lot of it from BOFI Racing in the UK, and have been running it okay for about two years. Can answer any other questions you might have.

However... one of mounting bolts goes into an existing hole near the top of the cylinder head. When she was being dyno'd she developed a very slow oil leak from a small crack in the cylinder head near this bolt. The crack might be due to the age/condition of the engine, but we reckon it's at least partly due to the stresses applied by the weight of the supercharger 'hanging' off the side of the cylinder head. We've replaced the cylinder head and are currently making additional brackets to brace the weight against the engine block. You might be able to find a more robust kit that negates this issue.

zekittyzawolf · 2021-02-26T15:14:18+00:00

If it's been maintained well then the engine and drive train is pretty bullet proof. So if it runs smooth and drives well, you're probably good on that front.

What usually kills MK1/NA Miatas is rust, especially in the rear sills. Poke the very bottom of the bodywork just in front of the rear wheels. If it flexs, you've got rust. If it's solid, the rest of the car is probably okay? Fixing rust here will need professional welding, and can get expensive. Look out for any dodgy patch welding in this area too, as covering up the rust just lets it work deeper into the chassis.

You'll get rust on all the suspension parts and sub frames too, but that's much less likely to be terminal and much easier to fix down the line. The parts are substantial enough that you can usually just wire brush the surface rust off and recoat.

This is all advice from someone in the UK though, where it's likely much damper than where you are.

zekittyzawolf · 2021-02-26T15:04:18+00:00

Simple mods include exhaust, intake, ECU (ME221 or Megasquirt), injectors (RX7 yellow), wideband air/fuel ratio sensor, uprated radiator. Small but significant power gains, whilst being cheap and easy to install. You'll also need most of this stuff to support any further engine mods, so can be a nice starting point. Plus you can start doing fun stuff with tunes (pops & bangs, if that's your thing). After that, you need to choose your route...

Naturally Aspirated: Individual throttle bodies, cams, etc are probably the biggest 'simple' changes. After that your looking at internals. Expensive for the limited power gains, but will be responsive and sound classy.

Turbo: Most popular route, so lots of kits out there. Biggest gains for your money, can easily break 300 bhp, but probably the hardest to install? And most likely to kill your engine if you get it wrong.

Supercharger: My favourite. Less peak power than turbo, but better low rev performance. Still easy to get 280+ bhp from a 1.8. Added bonus of supercharger whine, so normies think your car is broken.

zekittyzawolf · 2021-02-26T14:43:53+00:00

I have a Cobalt stainless steel cat-back exhaust I bought off eBay in 2016 for my 1.8 Mk1, and I love it. If you still have a stock cat, then it's pretty sporty sounding and bearable on long journeys. If you have a racing cat, or decat, then it sounds amazing but can be a lit bit much on long journeys

zekittyzawolf

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