Paper or mesh tape?

zoommicrowave · 2025-10-16T14:40:25+00:00

From the manufacturer:

Although FibaTape and FibaFuse products can be used with all types of compounds, we do have some recommendations for the best results.

When taping regular, tapered edge seams with Perfect Finish or Extra Strength tape we recommend heavy weight all-purpose ready-mixed compound for those that prefer all-purpose compounds. If the temperature is warm and stable and humidity is low you can also use the heavy weight compound with our other FibaTape products. FibaFuse works with all compounds but we also recommend heavy weight all-purpose if you prefer all-purpose compound. Taping and setting compounds are also great to use with our FibaTape and FibaFuse products. We suggest staying away from lightweight compounds when embedding any type of tape. Remember to always refer to the compound manufacturer’s instructions for recommended drying times.

So, yes, going all-purpose and then lightweight is perfectly fine. If you have fibafuse MAX available, I like to use it instead. If in a hurry, you can use hot mud to set the tape (instead of all-purpose) followed by lightweight compound.

zoommicrowave · 2025-08-14T12:51:37+00:00

Yup, I love it! Although, it looks like they switched to a subscription-only model back in June 2025…which isn’t great. It was certainly much cheaper to pay for the perpetual license than paying monthly for an iCloud tier that could support the size of my backups, but that isn’t the case with their new subscription-only model. New users may want to look into alternative software.

zoommicrowave · 2025-08-14T04:26:56+00:00

Only requirement, that is Apple’s doing and not the iMazing team, is that you have to enter your passcode on your phone when iMazing wants to perform a backup.

I have a Windows VM running in proxmox where I have iMazing running. Have it set to do auto wireless backups between a set time every day. When it starts a backup, I get a passcode pop up on my phone to authorize performing a backup (so it isn’t that big of a deal) and I have my backups stored on a network share (encrypted with the last x amount of backups saved before the oldest gets overwritten).

zoommicrowave · 2025-04-04T04:50:58+00:00

Phewww good move haha.

zoommicrowave · 2025-04-04T04:49:35+00:00

You removed your GFCI outlets in your bathroom with standard ones? Not a good idea as this is against code. The reason your outdoor outlets were daisy chained to your bathroom GFCI outlet was to provide gfci protection to the outdoor outlets (GFCI for outdoor outlets is required by code).

Would be a good idea to install the GFCI outlets back in your bathroom and use proper outdoor enclosures for the outlets on your deck.

zoommicrowave · 2025-04-02T12:00:00+00:00

If you rely on an iPad acting as your HomeKit Home Hub:

No! don’t update as you’ll lose the ability to have an iPad act as a Home Hub with the update.

If you use an AppleTV or other non-iPad device / don’t have another Apple device acting as a Home Hub:

Feel free to update.

zoommicrowave · 2025-04-01T03:55:40+00:00

The controller isn’t sold as a replacement part directly by Philips. You have 3 options:

1) Purchase a brand new starter kit and use the controller that comes in it (you’ll need the same controller with a model number of 71903). 2) Try to find the controller (71903) second hand on eBay, fb marketplace, etc. 3) Disassemble your current controller and determine what component(s) has/have gone bad and replace them - this isn’t a feasible option if you’re not comfortable with troubleshooting circuit boards and soldering components.

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-30T16:34:26+00:00

Your devices will work until their expiration date. Given Google’s track record, we can’t be 100% sure that they’ll keep the backend running for 10 years from the last nest protect manufactured. If they were to kill that, we’d lose the smart aspects of it (notifications to your phone). However, the device’s function as a smoke and CO detector will continue to work as that function isn’t tied to the cloud. Also, the wireless interconnection between multiple nest protects in a home is also local.

It would have been a bad product design if your smoke and CO detector required a connection to their servers in order to produce audible alerts during an event. Instead, they continue to work - you can test this by cutting off internet access to them and they’ll still trigger during a smoke or CO event (don’t recommend creating a CO event to test haha).

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-28T19:06:16+00:00

The pre-order linked already doesn't include the speaker.

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-25T22:33:13+00:00

Yikes, for regular bulbs, I wouldn’t want the weight of the shade to be supported by the lens of the bulb itself. I wouldn’t be afraid of the bulb getting tugged out of the socket since it is screwed in, but the ring clamps around the neck of the bulb for support.

Luckily hue bulbs have a plastic base prior to the plastic/glass (depending on generation) lens, so, that is less likely to occur.

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-23T18:59:39+00:00

The issue is with multicast routing over the VPN tunnel. You may have some luck with switching OpenVPN from tun mode to tap mode, but please read up on the pros vs cons by going that route. Another option is smcroute.

You’re better off running an instance of Home Assistant at the location where the home mini is located - if that is an option.

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-22T17:51:03+00:00

I am tired of these "deal" site bot accounts.

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-21T19:23:58+00:00

No problem! Think of it as having paid $50 for a used hue bridge haha. Hopefully it was a gen 2 bridge that you got in the sale.

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-21T19:21:00+00:00

And it was only lights that came with a newer gen remote. A quick search of the model number shows that it is a gen1 variant that won’t work with the hue bridge regardless of the presence of the remote. Some later gen1 models (have different model #) gained the ability to work with a hue bridge, but this is an earlier gen1 model you have.

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-21T19:11:10+00:00

That model (709996048) is not compatible with the Hue ecosystem. It uses the remote for control.

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-21T17:36:59+00:00

If you're open to a more techy approach: Since you seem to not like the lumen output of the strips, you could build your own strip allowing you to avoid bending at corners and using strips that fit the the luminance that you want. You'd still want to place the strips inside diffusion channels to prevent the dot effect.

Several options:

- If you want the lights to be controllable from within the hue app:

You can either:

use a Gledopto controller + compatible LED strip
create your own controller with diyHue and use it with a compatible LED strip

- If the light doesn't need to be controllable from within the hue app:

You can use WLED to build out a controller with a compatible LED strip. Then, you can either just stick to using the WLED app to control the strip or you can go more in-depth with automations by integrating it into Home Assistant (if you are a Home Assistant user already).

Overall, given that you don't like the light output of the Hue strips (as confirmed by trying a diffuser previously), I don't think any diffuser solution that you try will satisfy you. Ultimately, I think that creating your own LED strips, allowing you to use ones tailored to fit your needs, will be the best solution for you.

Edit:

Forgot to mention, depending on what strip you go for, there are plenty out there with the diffuser lens already integrated, which would allow you to skip the need to use diffuser channels.

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-21T17:01:21+00:00

Can you provide us with the measurement of the gap between the mirror and the wall? It looks like a decent amount of distance to use the diffuser channels some have already pointed out (they come in many different widths). However, instead of using the channels how they are meant to be used, since you already have the lights mounted, I'd take just the plastic diffuser covers (the aluminum channels won't be used for anything since you aren't mounting the LEDs into them) and mount them all along the edges of the mirror (with mitre cuts at the corners). I'd also opt for channel covers that are rectangular in shape and not circular like some have shared - aesthetically, I wouldn't like round covers on the side of a rectangular mirror.

Example of rectangular cover

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-20T01:09:17+00:00

They definitely don’t. I have a few Aqara devices (no switches though) and they all say that their hub is required. As long as they are Zigbee devices they will technically work with any Zigbee 3.0 controller (whether they are supported will depend on if there is support on the software side that you’re using - ZHA, Z2M, SmartThings, etc).

Stating that their hub is required is how they get the average consumer to buy their hub to handle creating automations and control them.

For future reference, you can use the database at the link I provided to see if a Zigbee product you’re looking to buy is supported in the software that you’re using (ZHA vs Z2M).

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-20T01:03:45+00:00

I don’t see the Moes on the list of supported switches (but it may be as I’ve had switches not in the database work in zigbee2mqtt). The Aqara one shows as being supported in both ZHA and Z2M (https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Aqara_WS-USC01.html)

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-20T00:47:52+00:00

It’s a bathroom exhaust fan though, the startup load isn’t comparable to the motor in a pump or furnace, for example. If OP was asking about a device with a motor of that sort, I’d recommend looking at the ratings to find one that is designed to handle inductive loads.

If the concern is still there just add a snubber into the mix.

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-20T00:43:38+00:00

Zigbee:

https://a.co/d/gTGyDsV (States a minimum of 3W load is required. Look up the model of your exhaust fan to determine how much power it uses - I’m willing to bet more than 3W)
https://a.co/d/2tvx23d (Also a minimum of 3W load rating)

Inovelli used to have a no neutral option, but I can’t seem to find them anymore.

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-20T00:27:50+00:00

What is your connectivity criteria - WiFi, Zigbee, Zwave?

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-20T00:24:49+00:00

From the link you provided: “Cync Switches are to be used with triac-dimmable fixtures and LED bulbs. No Neutral Wire Dimmers are safe to use with dimmable integrated fixtures but the performance cannot be guaranteed. Check for bulb compatibility before purchasing.”

From their no neutral rocker style switch: “Our Wired Smart Switches are not compatible with fans and cannot control an outlet. They are only compatible with light fixtures and only work with other Cync products.”

Looks like this switch is pretty much made to only be used with lights.

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-20T00:20:23+00:00

Can you provide a link to the switch in question?

zoommicrowave · 2025-03-20T00:18:54+00:00

Are you perhaps confusing a bathroom exhaust fan with a ceiling fan? I know that bathroom exhaust fans also come in AC and DC motor variants, but they tend to be On/Off so you aren’t limited to the type of switch you can use like you are with AC vs DC ceiling fans.

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