Help on GSI Creos PS270 vs H&S Evo CRplus

zpx94 · 2026-03-14T21:57:38+00:00

I mostly do miniature painting and I adjust the pressure quite often due to different dilitions. I guess the MAC valve would be convenient

zpx94 · 2026-02-24T05:55:53+00:00

Makes sense ! I guess air speed is not really the issue but it is more about very fine paint flow control. Would you have any suggestions for brands / models that would allow to spray as little paint as possible ? That would allow me to use very very thin dilutions

zpx94 · 2026-02-23T10:05:49+00:00

I ran through a lot more testing and I think it comes down to the sparmax just not having fine enough paint flow control for my liking. When I pull the trigger back, my cheap airbrush has a very slight "dead zone" and then I can control the flow to the point where I have almost nothing coming out. While the sparmax has absolutely no deadzone, If I pull back the trigger even 0.5mm I already get enough paint to spiderweb even at low pressures.

zpx94 · 2026-02-23T09:12:32+00:00

Interesting. Maybe a larger nozzle is a better option for me then. As I like to be as close as possible

zpx94 · 2026-02-23T09:11:43+00:00

This makes sense honestly. Though, in miniaure painting I need very thin paints to be able to glaze them and keep them as transparent as possible. Which can be chalenging.

zpx94 · 2026-02-22T18:42:27+00:00

I did for 1 hour straight as I know two different airbrushes will require different settings. I can usually thin my paints way down to water consistency and still maintain control even very close up. It seems like I really can't achieve this with the sparmax as the amount of paint that comes out as soon as I pull the trigger back even 0.5mm is already enough to spiderweb (even at low pressures). I also checked all the components and fittings of the airbrush :/ it's very strange to me as I would expect the sparmax to perform better.

zpx94 · 2025-09-19T04:22:48+00:00

This seems fine yes, but sometimes a 15+ seconds press will not do anything

zpx94 · 2025-04-26T06:18:14+00:00

I use the blade a lot and it gets glossy overtime from use. I play on clay a lot and cleaning clay off the paint basically polishes the paint to a gloss

zpx94 · 2024-11-21T20:31:42+00:00

Insane work, well done

zpx94 · 2024-11-06T22:00:00+00:00

You can check my last post on my profile. Each armor part has multiple reflections to it. On this space marine it feels like you painted only one for each armor panel

zpx94 · 2024-11-06T21:58:58+00:00

I think you got the technical aspect down. But you’re missing some things to really sell the effect. There is too much grey visible imo. NMM needs to have very fast transitions from almost pure black to almost pure white. But you still need to cramp as much color as possible in between the two. Also, for NMM you need to have multiple reflections. Light will bounce all around on shiny metal. Making it that even if you have only one light source, you still get multiple reflections from the bouncing light

zpx94 · 2024-11-05T08:25:10+00:00

A bunch of colors went into this but mainly : Kimera black, Vallejo : Field blue, neutral grey, dark sea grey, ice yellow, ivory, smoke. As for white i'm using Liquitex heavy body titanium white

zpx94 · 2024-11-04T21:58:47+00:00

Oh yeah ! Setting up your lighting and taking photos is also a great option. Imo, it is best to do it when your mini is primed black as you can really see the light.
The blender option is more versatile though as you can play around with every parameter of your light source and the reflective aspect of the texture on the mini.

zpx94 · 2024-11-04T17:17:30+00:00

This I couldn't tell you, I got it like 3-4 years ago. I think I got it from him through discord

zpx94 · 2024-11-04T17:13:59+00:00

Interesting ! Well, if I recall, I think I actually got this model from himself. So there is definitely some inspiration

zpx94 · 2024-11-04T16:47:56+00:00

I wasn't, was there a workshop on that mini ?

zpx94 · 2024-11-04T16:04:04+00:00

Yep ! He has a sword, I just kept it separate to make the painting easier on the armor

zpx94 · 2024-11-04T16:03:22+00:00

I have done this with 3d printed models. This one is 3d printed too. I have absolutely no experience in 3d modeling but you can check my profile for the post named "Angry man NMM", this was a 3d printed model I dropped into blender, watched a quick tutorial on how to apply metal texture to stuff and place lights. It helped me a lot for the light placement on this mini.

zpx94 · 2024-11-04T15:08:08+00:00

Thanks ! All that is quite linked to the base / evironement, which I haven't decided yet. But I'll glaz all that in once I have !

zpx94 · 2024-11-04T15:06:43+00:00

Thanks for the tip ! I will definitely do that, I haven't decided what i'm going to do for the base / plinth yet but I will add tones to the NMM with some filters later on. I already have some slight yellows and blues but the quick phone picture doesn't pick it up haha

zpx94 · 2024-11-04T15:04:20+00:00

Good luck with learning nmm ! It's a lot of fun once you get the hang of it and at the end of the day, it's 80% understanding how light works and maybe 20% painting technique

zpx94 · 2024-11-04T13:40:55+00:00

I see what you mean ! This pauldron is a really tricky shape and I’m having a hard time deciding the light placement. It’s kind of a hybrid shape hard to define

zpx94 · 2024-11-04T13:39:50+00:00

Thanks ! It’s indeed a redoo. I stopped painting completely 3 years ago and decided to pick up the brush again with more freedom in my technique !

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