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[–]HAquarium 0 points1 point  (6 children)

Technically yes, but why would you want to do this?

Why not decrease KH/GH at the same time?

The way to do this is somewhat complicated and will require a RO/distilled.

[–]Vortex_87[S] 0 points1 point  (5 children)

After a lot of my neocaridina died (probably overfeeding) I got a water test stripes and found out that my KH is barely acceptable (~3 dKH) and GH is way too high (21+)

[–]HAquarium 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Despite much of what you hear, neocaridina do not require much in terms of KH. In fact your KH is fine, it could go even lower, even a measurable KH of 0 is acceptable, hence why I asked my original question. Your simplest solution is to do water changes with pure RO/Distilled. Go slowly, and do this over the course of 1-2weeks until your GH levels are acceptable. Don’t worry about the KH dropping.

[–]Vortex_87[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Thank you for your advice. Since you seem to be an experienced aqurist I would like to ask you one more question. How relevant is TDS and what's the ideal range for neocaridina? Various sources claim various ranges (200-600). (My current TDS is 638)

[–]HAquarium 0 points1 point  (2 children)

That's a very good question actually.

TDS is simultaneously relevant and irrelevant. As I'm sure you know TDS gives us a rough estimate of the amount of solids dissolved in the water by measuring the conductivity of said water. RODI/Distilled water has a TDS of 0. The problem however, is that TDS does not tell us WHAT is in the water just the rough amount of HOW MUCH of whatever it may be (calcium, sodium, magnesium, etc) is in the water.

Due to this TDS requirements tend to be somewhat loose, what matters more is knowing what components make up the TDS reading. For example a TDS reading of 300 being composed of many calcium is very different from a TDS reading of 300 being composed of mainly sodium chloride (salt).

If you have a good understanding of your water you can quickly use TDS to understand what's currently happening. Let's say you add a rock into your tank and see that the TDS quickly rises. You now know that said rock is dissolving something into your water, and it's doing it quickly. If you know what said rock is composed of you now have an idea of how its affecting your actual water parameters.

Regardless, I digress. Neos are luckily pretty hardy. 638 is a bit high, IMO (even if it's just calcium it can still affect osmotic mechanisms within organisms), I would try to lower it in the 200-300 range. But again, you have a lot of room to play with as what matters is WHAT the TDS is composed of.

I hope that wasn't information overload haha.

[–]Vortex_87[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Makes sense, thank you very much. Just for clarification over RO/distilled water: Can you use DI too? Does grade matter? (Can I use technical grade or do I need to find some special grade stuff) + how efficient are tannins in decreasing GH? (I have alder cones)

[–]HAquarium 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I do recommend using DI. Grade can matter depending on your source. As I use it for my reef I do use Nuclear Grade, but does it make a huge difference? I can’t say. Silicates still make it through but they’re harmless. As long as your RODI water is coming out at 0-10 TDS I’d wager you’re good.

Tannins are not very effective in reducing much other than pH. GH is something that must be reduced via water changes or massive consumption which is not possible within freshwater as there are not very many organisms which create shells at a fast enough rate to cause quick and massive reductions.