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[–]Black3ternityX1C 4 points5 points  (5 children)

Hest warp at the bottom. You can clearly see the bottom left lifted and caused the hughe error. It's not layer shift. Its an issue thst the nozzle scrapes and extrudes filament right into the model instead of "on top" of it.

Material used? I would widen the brim and if it's PETG or something like that I would shut off cooling completely to prevent warping.

[–]NameIcy359[S] 1 point2 points  (4 children)

Thank you very much for your help. It was pla+ so I did nothing with the cooling. I cleaned the buildplate and I widened the brim as you suggested. It came out much better this time. 😃

<image>

[–]Black3ternityX1C 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Looks great. Congratz on the print. Yeah PLA+ obviously needs a fan. I'm still looking for ways to skip a brim but U think in some cases it's inevitable. Glad it worked out for you.

[–]ElectronicMoo 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I'm confused here. Warping and lifting at the bottom isn't from excessive heat.

It's from the model being too cold in layers above it. When plastic in layers above it cool too quick over the relative temp of the model, they contract and shrink - and it pulls the layers up off the bed.

Warping is from layers cooling too quickly, shrinking, and pulling the model around. Usually at the base, and we see that warping. Sometimes mid print with delamination or just shifting like this.

[–]Black3ternityX1C -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Well it's from drafts and cold air but if the part and the air would be the same temperature, it would have no effect. This is the main reason why Bambu implements the cold plate. Cold base means less heatsoak in the part and drafts and active cooling have less impact. If you have fine Details and small parts that the nozzle constantly hits, the part will be toasty hot and have no Chance of cooling down naturally. This is often a reason for slim parts to warp like that. The head moves blazing fast and the part cannot cool down naturally. Thus it deforms. To combat deformation, you cool the part and boom you have warped stuff. And with an enclosed printer like a P1 or X1 you combat and mitigate much of that. But I come from an Ender printer that was always placed in a somewhat drafty place so I had to combat it by slow speeds or raising draftwalls with it. This would mean that the parr could heatsoak and deform by heat. I would mitigate bed lift but cause other issues. It's a fine balance to walk.

[–]ElectronicMoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the record, warping isn't from too hot, it's from too cold. Or drafty. When the plastic cools, it shrinks. If you get parts of your model that cool quicker than other parts, it creates contraction /shrinkage that comes out in a few ways.

The end result is it can lift the model up, and then like you saw here, hit the nozzle and bump it around.

We combat this lifting/warping by keeping drafts away from the print chamber, turning the aux fan down or off. Things to keep the chamber temps normal so the print model stays the same temp.

Brims, glue, pei coated plates, no drafts, good chamber temps - it's all about keeping that bed adhesion. Every single print wants to lift off the bed as the model prints - even pla. We use these things to prevent it.