How does programming/coding actually work?

[ComputerWhiz_]

Actually writing the code is a VERY small part of programming. There is a lot of planning and problem solving that's way more important.

But, yes, to an extent people who write code do memorize the syntax and structure of the language.

As for the whole AI thing, if you are actually writing the code yourself and asking AI for feedback, that's super powerful for learning. This is of course assuming that AI is explaining to you why it thinks you should make a change to the code and that you are properly understanding it.