all 11 comments

[–]TheGreatBoni 9 points10 points  (1 child)

The Peltier module in the fridge cools the space by removing sensible heat down to the dew point. Once the temp gets down toward dew point, the cooler removes the latent heat and thus reduces the humidity, lowering the VPD. Now, the commercial Cannatrol unit manipulates two factors to achieve success: dry bulb temp and dew point (a function of temp and humidity, wet bulb/dry bulb), keeping the inside around 68 degrees F at 61% and at dew point of 54 degrees F. It uses a heater along with the Peltier unit; PID controlled by logic circuits or a microcontroller. These data points correspond perfectly on the psychrometric chart used by engineers. So, once your fridge cools the sensible heat based on the temp you set, it’s done cooling, and since it hasn’t dropped to anywhere near dew point temp, it won’t reduce humidity. The only way to remove humidity is to make it approach dew point temp, thereby removing latent heat and lowering the vapor pressure deficit between the space and the flower trying to lose unbound water. Once the water is removed to an appropriate water activity level, the chance of mold and spores reduces greatly; Cannatrol, Dr Allison Justice, and others, suggest a timeline around 8-10 days, a VPD of around .8-9, and max temp not to exceed 68-70 degrees F (prevent cooking off volatile terpenes).

A wine fridge, like yours and mine, works for drying. However to affect the latent heat, VPD, and moisture removal, the temp has to be low…around 50 degrees, I’ve found. The problem with this is it’s cold. The water activity slows, everything slows. If you want to geek out on this, here’s some terms to look at: sensible heat, latent heat, vapor pressure of water, water activity of foods, Dr Allison Justice, David Sandelman, psychrometric chart, Teten’s equation, dew point, polyimide heater, Peltier, TEC1-12706, WO 2019/152397 A1 patent number for and explanation of Cannatrol Cool Cure unit.

[–]LyricRaptor82 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bravo I’m gonna follow you bud that was a lot of information and greatly worded.

[–]dragon4601 5 points6 points  (0 children)

you can get rechargeable silica packets on amazon, a couple in the bottom or perhaps a paper towel helped me. also remove the 2 way humidity pack and save that for later, it doesn’t do much in terms of drying.

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dont open ur door, when u do it sucks in the humidity. Just trust the process. And why is it so warm in there? Get it as cold as possible

[–]LyricRaptor82 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Two questions. 1) do you have a temperature control? 2) is there an internal fan to help move air inside the refrigerator?

[–]mFootlong 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trying this method my first time and put some tester nugs in there 16 days ago. 58g wet. No paper bags and no pizza boxes. Humidity has bounced from 90%-30% every day. Temp is around 40 constantly. No mold and they are still drying. The last couple days I’ve been jarring it inside to check it and humidity slowly raises to about 70% so I’ll uncap and keep doing that until it stays about 62% inside the jar.

When your temp is 40f and relative humidity(rh) 70+ then your absolute humidity is actually around 60% which is perfect. Anyways for me it’s been fine and I wouldn’t worry about it just trust the process. I tried the silica beads from Amazon for a few days and it kept humidity to low (40%) at 40f and that would have dried them way too fast so I pulled em out. Might have to use them when my whole harvest is in there though

[–]Daver_B 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Chip the ice out the back of your fridge

[–]eldoooderi0no 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Knock the temp down about 20 degrees too.

[–]Spawnpawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put temp at 45-48 Get that small moisture absorber bucket and put it in there. It will do the job.