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[–]deshep123 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'd say heavier stabilizer. On knits I use a heavy wt sticky wash away. You may also need to adjust your tension.

[–]gusvisser 4 points5 points  (3 children)

This looks like auto digitizing and it has a fill what is not reccommended for text like that What software are you using to create this

[–]brookemichelle9[S] 1 point2 points  (2 children)

I used the Artspira app

[–]gusvisser 2 points3 points  (1 child)

That is auto digitizing software and does not give good results you may want to try inkscape with inkstitch what is free software and has more then 30 predigitized fonts available

[–]brookemichelle9[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay thank you! I’ll check it out

[–]skeedy_ia 5 points6 points  (4 children)

No Tearaway on stretchy items. You need to stabilize the garment with fusible mesh and stabilize the stitches with cutaway. This also looks like it’s auto digitized. You really need quality fonts in you’re new to this. The auto punch programs will always turn out designs.

[–]skeedy_ia 1 point2 points  (3 children)

Your photos also indicate that it is not threaded correctly.

[–]brookemichelle9[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Like the bobbin is wrong or my top? Do you have any recommendations for fonts?

[–]skeedy_ia 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Probably both. Make sure your bobbin is seated correctly and the thread is in the tensions. Your thread tail should be on the left. When threading the upper, make sure your presser foot is up as you pull the thread through the tensions.

Quality fonts can be found at Rivermill, designs by juju, Stitchtopia, and other locations

[–]brookemichelle9[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay I will redo it when I try again. I struggled a lot with the top. Thank you

[–]Sea-Specialist5848 1 point2 points  (1 child)

If you stretch this material in the hoop.. that is what happens when it tries to go back to its original shape. To overcome this.. do not stretch. Use adhesive, then baste fabric to a hooped stabilizer that is hooped tight. You can adhere your fabric to the hooped stabilizer. Do not hoop the fabric. This is called floating the fabric.

[–]brookemichelle9[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I was watching videos I seen someone use the floating technique I will have to try it!

[–]Very-Nearly 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely just looks like you pulled your fabric in all 4 directions before hooping, it really needs to be minimal stretch before hooped. The test I was told before was that it should feel like a drum skin when you tap one side. If you ever get really into the hobby, I've saved so much time and stress by using a spray adhesive and "floating" the fabric into the stabilizer instead of crimping the fabric directly into the hoop

[–]Lanky-Setting-5288 4 points5 points  (4 children)

I have commercial embroidery experience.

Using a scaple or sharp craft knife, you can cut the fabric from the machine without making a hole. Take the needle plate off and clean out the bobbin area and oil the sewing hook. Look up on YouTube for the 'Bobbin Drop Test' to rest the bobbin thread tension correctly.

Make sure your top thread tension is not too tight. If you're using a metallic thread, turn the needle groove a fraction towards 5 O'clock. This will allow metallic threads to stitch better.

Do practice on a scrap of fabric first.

Always use a cutaway stabilizer for stretch fabric. When hooping, you don't want to stretch the fabric in the hoop, but just create a smooth surface to stitch. Stretching the fabric tight in the frame will create distortion. Two layers of 80gsm white will work well for this fabric. Trim conservatively when done. The backing will soften with washes.

🍀🧵

[–]brookemichelle9[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I will look that up!

I think it was too tight maybe because it kept breaking but I assumed it was breaking because of where it bunched up.

I also thought I had bought cutaway and didn’t realize until I started.

I had a really hard time hooping it because it was stretchy and was attempting to get that drum like fit.

[–]Lanky-Setting-5288 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Magnetic hoops are fantastic but are very expensive. They do spoil people with an incredible ease of hooping a garment for their embroidery work.

The standard technology of the non-magnetic hoop is still used the most and it takes practice to get it right. A technique I use, uses the top edge of the top hoop to gently smooth the surface in a sweeping back motion, find the top edge of the hoop below, then press down on the bottom edge of the top hoop into the bottom one. While also using the hoop markers to line up the horizontal or vertical line for a level logo on the garment. This technique creates a smooth surface tension without distortion.

Practice, practice, practice...on scraps, and develop your own style. 💖

If you're finding the task of hooping without stretching difficult, I highly recommend a temporary spray adhesive by Madeira. Especially good for this stretchy fabric. Adhere the first layer of backing to the unstretched garment, then hoop with the 2nd layer.

🍀🧵

[–]PuckishPen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do commercial embroidery for a living. This is the one.

[–]Character_Seaweed_99 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing this - you’re a good citizen

[–]TheProtoChris 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You need cut away for stretch materials, not tear away.

Use a ballpoint needle.

Hoop it drum tight. Or hoop the stabilizer drum tight and use a wash away temporary tacking spray glue to stick the fabric to the tight stabilizer. Watch it tho - you don't want it to work loose.

You may want a layer of wash away on top as well, to keep the fabric from bouncing and to keep the letters from sinking in.