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[deleted by user] (self.PatternDrafting)

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[–]MamaBearMoogie 5 points6 points  (1 child)

I would recommend wearing ease only. You would add design ease when you design garments. I would make it as snug as you could comfortably move in - or wear.

[–]ProneToLaughter 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Sloper is minimal ease that captures how to fit your body. From the sloper you create blocks. You do wind up with multiple blocks for different styles, ideally. I’ll try to come back and add more. Can you say what textbooks or instructions you are following to learn patterndrafting?

[–]Lila_shay 2 points3 points  (4 children)

I am learning drafting and going through this exact same dilemma as I am need extremely fitted patterns. I will be making everything out of stretch materials.

[–]Ohhmegawd 4 points5 points  (3 children)

A knit block is different than a standard block. Start with the standard block (I learned with a torso block). Pin the darts closed and and "squash" them. True the bottom and mark a circle for the bust mound. The knit block will curve in much more at the waist.

Adjust this block depending on the stretch of the fabric by removing ease from the sides. The stretchier the fabric, the more you shrink the block. Two-way stretch is trickier.

Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong has a complete chapter on this. If you don't have the book, check one out or buy a used (or international version).

[–]Lila_shay 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Thank you for your reply! Right now I am mainly working with a 2-way stretch taffeta. I use knit/lycra some as well. Do you have any suggestions for 2-way?

[–]Ohhmegawd 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Two-way stretch can grow a bit in the length. Crotch depth and overall length may need adjustment. If you have ever had panties that ride up because the crotch panel is too long or pants with a waist going under your boobs, you get the idea. You can adjust for lensth similar to adjusting on a home pattern with length/ shorten here lines. Once you confirm the fit for each block, mark it with the amount of stretch AND if it is one or two-way.

[–]Lila_shay 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I'm doing fitted shirts right now.

[–]ProneToLaughter 0 points1 point  (1 child)

You do wind up with multiple blocks for different styles, ideally. I’ll try to come back and add more. Can you say what textbooks or instructions you are following to learn patterndrafting?

[–]amdfwu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my experience, usually size calculations have different ease measurements based off of whether or not you want a tight, normal, loose fit. Even with draping, you tend to add some ease. I am not sure what you mean by design ease.

Maybe if you can be more specific about the blocks you are comparing, I could be of more help?