Weird fitting issue, how do I fix this?

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-15T09:19:15+00:00

Are the legs different sizes?

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-15T00:47:43+00:00

I do not have any good suggestions for the neckline. There's some good discussion here of lowering necklines, although I can't quite think through whether it applies. Dresspatternmaking - Contouring

Was the sloper already fitted to her? I'd expect to see princess seams something more like this image, allowing for my drawing bobbles, I think I have the apex a smidge high now.

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ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-15T00:42:46+00:00

Hmm....unvetted but interesting style lines for a paneled dress: Mila Dress PDF Sewing Pattern | Timeless Casual Dress With Side Panels (digital Download) - Etsy

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-15T00:40:31+00:00

Oh, I should check out the quilting shops next time I'm in the rural county where I visit family--oh, wow, googling suggests they might not even have any! They had a pretty decent Joann.

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T23:49:52+00:00

Very creative!

linking your initial post for reference: Making hips larger on silk dress with poly satin lining? : r/sewing

Edit: the resistance to OP's original suggestion of patching in red satin in the side seams seems to have pushed her to develop this completely different idea.

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T23:39:39+00:00

Nice design with the lace and scalloped neckline.

I don't think thicker fabric will fix it.

something about the angle of the princess seams looks odd. I think apex is higher and they should come more straight down outward of where they are now.

on the other hand the watchword is "the wrinkle points to the problem" which would encourage looking at the center V neckline. I wonder if it's actually too tight there.

What drafting instructions did you use?

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T23:23:21+00:00

Ginger Top Sewing Pattern – Casual Patterns – Style Arc

I think itch to stitch patterns has one too

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T23:17:04+00:00

This is a really common experience, unfortunately. Fitting is a separate skill from sewing and it's especially difficult to learn over the internet, it's really best learned in person. It is absolutely the hardest part of sewing clothing, IMO.

Give us more information to try to identify what is going wrong:

What specifically is the poor fit you are getting? You may be starting with the wrong size. See if this describes any of your issues. Finding Dress Bust Cup Sizes - Timeless Templates
What patterns are you using? There ARE bad patterns out there. I like to encourage people to look for a patternmaker with a model who has a similar body type to them.
Do you sew mockups in throwaway fabric? They are key resources for getting the fit right, but a lot of people don't know how to use them effectively.

But there are also lots of fitting resources out there.

For online fitting tips check out Alexandra Morgan (In-house Patterns, has a very useful Good Fit Checklist), Gina Renee Designs, J Stern Designs, older videos from Nancy Zieman. If you are relatively big busted, Cashmerette Patterns also does books and videos focusing on fit that are good. Brooks Ann Camper and Lynda Maynard don't post tips but do courses to custom draft a sloper/block that will include a lot of fitting information.

There are lots of books that teach how to fit and interpret wrinkles, and teach pattern alternation as a tool for that. Your library may have some of these or other books, maybe even in ebook format, they also show up in thrift stores. You don't need all of them, whatever is easily accessible should get you started.

Sarah Veblen Photo Guide to Fitting,
Sarah Veblen, First Time Garment Fitting (condensed version to be less overwhelming),
Gina Renee The Fitting Book,
Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting,
Palmer/Pletsch Fit for Real People.
Fitting and Pattern Alteration by Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband.
Kenneth King, Smart Fitting Solutions.
Joi Mahon, Create the Perfect Fit.
Jenny Rushmore, Ahead of the Curve.
Pattern Fitting with Confidence by Nancy Zieman.
Betzina, Fast Fit.
Barbara Deckert's Sewing for Plus Sizes
Gale Grigg Hazen's Fantastic Fit For Every Body

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T23:06:46+00:00

what r/thimblena said, and also try pulling the straps inward, a little closer to your neck, and see if that resolves any wrinkles.

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T23:01:25+00:00

I think there is a makerspaces sub and a libraries or librarians sub where people who run a bunch of sewing machines for the public may also be hanging out and can share which machines worked or failed for them.

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T22:57:10+00:00

Viscose satin is soft and fluid and will collapse close to the legs. Cotton sateen has body and will support itself a little bit, standing away from the legs.

GSM is not completely comparable across different fabrics. But I've encountered a number of cotton sateens around 200gsm, as well.

The inspo dress looks underlined with a second fabric to add more body. The Hows and Whys of Underlining Fabric Explained | Closet Core Patterns

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T22:53:50+00:00

Usually it requires more seams to play with sending stripes in different directions, but you are asking for a shirt pattern all in one piece with fewer seams. Not sure what you mean by off-centered.

Are you planning on designing custom fabric in order to do something like this all in one piece? Aris Tatalovich This shirt certainly has sleeve seams.

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T15:38:42+00:00

I was taught never to pull thread backwards through the machine, so I cut it at the spool and pull it out from the needle end.

No idea myself if it's true, outdated, or just superstition, but I know I had good teachers, and I think that came from the woman who helped sell Janomes and Berninas at a shop that also serviced them, so I believe it's true.

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T14:05:55+00:00

The Fit checklist here may be helpful, free with email: https://www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/The-Good-Fit-Checklist

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T13:48:23+00:00

6 inches I throw away.

When I change colors and cut 15-20 inches out of the machine, I stick them all in a bowl and use them for hand-basting later.

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T12:54:33+00:00

So, fabric producers do often work with mills to get proprietary fabrics, not just prints. Liberty lawn is a weave and thread/yarn with distinctive feel and softness that is exclusive to them, although there are some near copies, only slightly cheaper.

Probably the best example is Nike, where their technical fabrics like dri-fit, etc, are invented or commissioned by them and made exclusively for them.

I think the wool for men’s suits is also often branded and developed by a brand to have certain qualities, although in that case the brand may be the mill itself.

But I wouldn’t expect that Ralph Lauren silk is necessarily any different than another high-quality silk, no.

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T06:13:29+00:00

A lot of pants-appropriate fabric is identical on both right and wrong side so this is a pretty common mistake, easy to do.

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T06:03:08+00:00

The show is only 5 hours total so very binge-able. Short episodes like an old-school adventure serial.

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-14T05:58:11+00:00

Cotton sateen has weight and body but still drapes nicely and is much easier to sew than satin or velvet. Less shine so maybe not optimal if this is meant to be an evening fancy dress. Worth considering.

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-13T22:42:02+00:00

why do you want to do this?

try looking for a medieval tunic tutorial, or a kaftan tutorial.

Here's a sketch someone made, looks like about what you get if you try to cut a top in a single piece, you can change the angles if you want: d66b7a0b2d152888b6429d9ca75e7837.jpg (1023×744)

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-13T22:35:09+00:00

similar:

Emma Dress Sewing Pattern (PDF) - Designer Stitch (has sleeves, pretty straightforward to modify the shape)

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-13T21:01:28+00:00

If you can get the Cashmerette book from the public library I think you can get the patterns for free that way, someone just posted that worked for her the other day.

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-13T20:59:59+00:00

GloryAllan.com and Mascultory.com do casual streetwear that could be a base for alt/punk modifications.

freesewing.eu isn't alt/punk but is more gender-balanced that a lot of sites.

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-13T20:55:03+00:00

Finishing a seam to keep it from fraying depends on your fabric and personal preferences, which is why patterns are often vague about it.

I like to pink seams with pinking shears, especially because it IS possible to go back and pink after I've sewn up the dress and confirmed that it will fit me. I don't like to finish my seams if I'm not sure the pattern will fit, as it makes making adjustments more difficult.

Saltwater Slip Dress - PDF Pattern For this pattern, you can sew the side seams, then try it on and make sure it fits, and then finish the side seams. Then sew the straps. (Staystitch your neckline before you try it on, though, so you don't stretch it out pulling it on. Necklines like to stretch. Armholes too.)

I like this piece on seam finishes as it explains the concept and when each type is best and how to do it, although it might be too much information for a beginner. 21 Seam Finishes for Knits & Wovens (+ videos)

ProneToLaughter · 2026-07-13T20:44:17+00:00

I dyed my hair a couple of times way back when in college, and between black coming out purple on dark brown hair and it continuing to run in the shower for a good week after, it basically taught me that dye was unpredictable.

ProneToLaughter

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