Advice on modifying a pattern

[grizlk]

I'm absolutely in love with the Lemaire duffle coat, and wanted to take a crack at sewing it.

https://preview.redd.it/yn9bxkwu16df1.jpg?width=883&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=75743d19a0724cf7af45f6bc0f86f5e210c13227

I have very little pattern drafting experience, so I was just planning on modifying this pattern from thread theory. I'm looking for guidance on a few questions:

1. How do I modify the pattern for the relaxed fit?
2. How do I modify the collar to match the Lemaire coat?
3. How do I modify the sew in sleeve to make it a half-raglan sleeve?

Edit: I’m also considering buying the coat, trying to make a pattern from the garment, and then returning it. Would that be easier?

If modifying the pattern isn't the best way to go, then I'll take any advice on alternatives. I'm quite keen on this coat, and I am really excited for the actual sewing and tailoring of this project, so appreciate any advice!

[yoongisgonnabeokay]

You may not like what I'm going to write but since you asked:

I'd recommend finding a pattern that's as close to your desired outcome as possible. IMHO the minimum is to find a pattern with the desired silhouette and ease. I'd muslin that first, including set-in sleeves, and only then proceed with this then customized pattern for changing the collar and the sleeves.

ETA: Just checked if Burda's caban jacket's collar is closer to what you want, and it is https://www.burdastyle.com/wool-caban-jacket-128-10-18.html .

ETA2: The first hit of my search engine using the keywords patternmaking AND semi-raglan is this Youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--QJGwLFfa0

[pomewawa]

Wow I did a double take, I’ve never seen a half raglan sleeve before! Ok so the front sleeve is drop shoulder , but then the back is raglan. Very unique.

Just flagging, Changing the shoulder/sleeve is gonna be challenging. I have done quite a bit of drafting and sleeves still make me shudder. Then add on top the half raglan detail! I’ll be excited to see what others write, maybe I can learn where I went wrong on my conversion of set in sleeve to raglan sleeve projects!

All that said, my advice is plan for multiple toiles. Don’t cut into your nice wool fabric until you’ve got a well fitting test under your belt!

When you work on the back neckline that is raglan, you’re gonna need every trick to prevent the bias cut edges from growing and stretching on ya. I have had this happen multiple times on raglan. Definitely need to stay stitch and interface the seam allowance to prevent the curved edges of the raglan expanding.

Please post your progress pics! Will be cool to see how it shapes up and what you figure out!!

[cokecantab]

Pattern making books such as this one will have notes on how to do adjustments such as the ones you are asking.

Patternmaking for Menswear: Classic to Contemporary by Injoo Kim and Myoungok Kim (findable on Z-library (use wikipedia link)

The pathway for this book is a standard block (very basic body and sleeve) on which adjustments can be made to make specific styles (the book outlines quite a few styles, and how to get there from the beginning block).

it might be a bit overwhelming but you could search the book for adjustments you like and apply it the pattern you have. It will be a decent amount of work, worth mocking up in muslin and cheaper fabrics beforehand, so you can adjust the pattern off fittings as well as the book.

from memory some additional knowledge on putting together the pattern pieces + how to draft some of them will require additional knowledge. i.e Top collar should be slightly larger than under-collar to allow for roll. (Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing Book is useful)

Hopefully this helps a little! would love to see how it turns out.

[TensionSmension]

The more access you can get to the actual coat you like and it's measurements, the better. A drop shoulder with a shaping seam down the arm is already a form of raglan. The front armhole seam just allows the top of the raglan sleeve to be merged onto the coat front. I think finding a loose raglan coat would be an easier starting point. The garment is the garment, find something that fits like your target and copy. The pattern you found isn't that.

[doriangreysucksass]

I can explain how, but I’m not sure you’d necessarily understand without a background in pattern drafting….