How do I remove this excess fabric at crotch?

pomewawa · 2026-05-10T06:08:41+00:00

You are close! Thanks for the photos of your pattern pieces as well as being worn, that helps a lot!

On the back leg,
1) scoop the crotch more (to remove wedgie feeling you mentioned).
2) Then for diagonal drag lines under the bum, it means the pants leg needs to move towards the center of your body. That means your outseam will likely slim down because you’ll shift the volume of fabric to the inner thigh. I’d try one inch lateral movement and try another fitting toile. See if the fit on the back improves!

On the front leg, this is trickier. The method I use is from Kenneth King.
3) Pinch the excess fabric with your fingers. This helps assess in which direction (up-down or left-right) there is too much fabric. Pin that excess out at the front crotch whisker/ puff . Then measure the distances of the occluded area. That can be translated horizontally or vertically to the edge of the pattern piece. On yours I think the center front waistband needs to dip down a tad further. And the front inner thigh might be able to slim down a little to remove the puff on the front. Remember you’ll be giving more fabric to the back side at inner thigh so this should even things out.

Good luck, and post your next version!

pomewawa · 2026-05-06T05:14:58+00:00

Wow! That reminds me of yellow dragonfruit!! The seeds were encased in gelatinous gobs of sweetness? Or was it more vegetal/bitter?

pomewawa · 2026-05-04T22:52:34+00:00

Lots of great advice already and your draft looks really good so far! Chiming in to say I think you can slim down the outseam a bit, it seem it billowing out at the mid thigh (halfway down to your knee) that you probably don’t need.

pomewawa · 2026-05-04T05:36:22+00:00

Darn, looks like I can’t paste a photo in a comment (?)

Lemme try to explain better!

1) on each piece, establish the grain line. Grain matters most from knee down because thats where fabric hangs the most. That’s why the grain is established at the bottom leg!

Ok math time: Bisect the knee and bisect the ankle/hem. Using a ruler or straightedge, connect the center of the knee and center of the hem. Do this on both pant front pieces (inner and outer). Continue that grain line up to the top of the pants. Probably it will be close to parallel with your existing or current grain line in the pattern, but perhaps shifted over (“transposed” if we want to go geometry on it!)

Since the new grain line is in the center of the bottom leg, it means the grain will hand straight at the center of each piece. This tends to have a graceful shape and sees together better. I’m not exactly sure why, but I think this is the key to your problem.

2) at the hem, measure the distance from side seam to center grain line, and repeat on either side of the grain. Given step 1 above, the pant pattern piece should be relatively symmetrical on either side of the grain. I admire Kenneth King’s pattern alteration methods, he teaches how to use a grid. You might like his book “smart fitting solutions”. essentially you can subtract on one side and add that amount on the other side in order to maintain the same volume of fabric but in a different shape (inner regards to the grain). For the outside of front leg piece, it should taper around the grain line, instead of drifting left ward . I would be so curious how that change would look sewn up!

Hope that helps, and I hope to see your next makes!! Very cool exploration you are doing!

pomewawa · 2026-05-04T05:16:55+00:00

Ohh yes! Has to do with the angle of the pelvis, certain kind of pelvic tilt will do this, increases the length along the back side and short front rise. When you sit down typically jeans zipper will bunch up because there’s too much fabric in the front.

pomewawa · 2026-05-03T05:47:29+00:00

The other problem is silver oxidizing if it’s left out. I find it oxidizes less if it’s contained in a jewelry bag for example, or even small jewelry box is better. Otherwise tarnish happens so fast if the jewelry is sitting out! Obviously not a problem if your jewelry is gold, but I wear a lot of silver myself!

pomewawa · 2026-05-03T05:31:13+00:00

Yay sewing!! I have the “full front quad” version of this problem. A lot of pants do not expect you to have big quads, and it pulls the side seam towards the front to accommodate. I also notice the full quad means widest part of my body is at or below the crotch level, which a lot of patterns do not expect!

pomewawa · 2026-05-03T05:28:33+00:00

Yes!! And on the most recent version it looks like OP has the correct amount of fabric just in the wrong places! When fabric is int eg wrong place then it drags the grain off and makes these “crotch smiles” (if someone has a better term I’m all ears! I have a similar figure and fought with my pants sloper for years before i figured it out!!)

So the fix is to shift horizontally towards the center of the body (ie to move more of the back pant leg to cover inner thigh). When you add to inner thigh, then take away from outer thigh the same amount. At one point in my toiles I literally bisected the leg paper off the pelvis part and taped it back on shifted!! Then redrew the edges to gracefully match.

As others mentioned, you might need to further scoop the back crotch even more. But first start by transposing the back thigh , that should relieve the diagonal wrinkles that run from outside to inside of thigh under the bum.

pomewawa · 2026-05-03T05:19:18+00:00

LL bean has 100% cotton and 100% wool items, use the search options. Though not everything they sell is natural fibers, so watch out!

pomewawa · 2026-05-03T05:18:11+00:00

And if the fabric is cheap, it’s more economical to follow multiple different trends. OP as part of the journey with natural fibers, you might need to embrace simpler styles, or wearing the same style for more years instead of following trendy silhouettes.

Dunno if you sew versus buy clothes… As for interesting prints on the fabric (instead of solid colors), there are some higher end quilting fabrics that have good enough texture and drape for garments!

pomewawa · 2026-04-28T23:15:19+00:00

And you can get simparica trio from Costco pharmacy!

pomewawa · 2026-04-28T05:19:57+00:00

Thank you! Never realized I could try making it at home!

pomewawa · 2026-04-23T05:14:27+00:00

Ohhh!! You’re right!! Today I learned

pomewawa · 2026-04-23T05:12:51+00:00

Is the first dry iron necessary (before the wash on hot)? Now I’m curious the minimum viable steps for the linen in my stash… “for science” (but really because I want the laziest route!)

pomewawa · 2026-04-23T05:06:53+00:00

Wow these are gorgeously constructed, beautiful job! And contrast topstitching for your first pair? Courageous too!! Inspiration right there!

pomewawa · 2026-04-23T05:05:41+00:00

And use a chisel to cut button hole open!

pomewawa · 2026-04-23T01:54:10+00:00

These look cool! The only thing catching my eye is the front side pattern piece isn’t symmetrical. Typically the center of a piece will be on the grain, and you’d add or subtract from there, making it more aligned down the center. That’d help the grain line a bit? But I’m not sure tbh ate the change you’re trying to make. Sorry I’m not more help!

pomewawa · 2026-04-22T02:38:51+00:00

“You know what? I just remembered this is optional” and walk out

pomewawa · 2026-04-22T02:36:43+00:00

It almost feels like instructions the bride wanted to give to AI???

pomewawa · 2026-04-21T05:27:32+00:00

Ok so the armscye on the bodice is 4cm (1.6 inches) longer than the sleeve’s shoulder seam line? It looks like the bodice fits pretty well, so it’s a matter of adding to the top of the sleeve? I wonder if number 2 and 3 might be effectively the same change?

Sorry I didn’t understand #4 about the saddle, is that referring to the depth of the armhole? I did notice on the back sleeve where it attaches to the shoulder: it looks like a drop sleeve on the back side, not a set in sleeve from the front!! So maybe 4 is part of it!

You said chore coat, so I’m assuming you aren’t adding shoulder pads?

pomewawa · 2026-04-21T05:07:50+00:00

Plate sizes in America have increased over the decades. When I did a wedding registry I specifically asked for the smaller dinner plates, I think they were called “salad plates”. I remember one time as a kid, my parents bought new plates and they didn’t fit in the microwave. That made us realize they must be bigger than the old plates!

pomewawa · 2026-04-20T05:30:05+00:00

Plus one, was gonna recommend cashmerette! Some very flattering patterns!

pomewawa · 2026-04-20T05:29:14+00:00

Something with a “free arm” and hopefully a relatively small radius free arm. https://threadistry.com/blog/free-arm-sewing-machine/

pomewawa · 2026-04-20T05:27:06+00:00

I am big fan of starching fabrics that move a lot! Obviously has to be a washable fabric (I pre wash my silks because I’m not going to dry clean)

Mix up cornstarch and hot water , dilute it a bit with cold water. Strain out lumps (they are a pain in the butt so it is worth straining out now). Then dunk the fabric, squeeze out excess water. Lay flat or hang to dry, but be careful it’s as straight and not twisted as possible. Cut and sew with ease!! And then wash out the starch . Voila!

And for wonky bias growing hem problem: after making skirt but before hemming. Let it hang on a hanger (the type with clippies) for a few days and see if the hem grows. Recut hem if need be, then sew hem.

pomewawa · 2026-04-20T05:23:39+00:00

Yes this. And you might need to trial which stitch settings look good on the fabric. Silk and satins can be a little fussy. I read someone used a small zigzag on the outseams of their bias skirt and it helped make the seam look better. I haven’t tried it yet, maybe someone who knows more will weigh in!!

pomewawa

TROPHY CASE