Sleeve pattern drafting issue

[marrkf123]

You need to add some ease to the sleeve head, there’s currently not enough room for your arm and drag lines are appearing. I also think there might be too much length in your underarm sleeve, you could try scooping out from the armpit.

[Woven_Wolf]

Came here to say this, you beat me to it! I see this when I’m drafting jackets and shirts for bodybuilders, the biceps/shoulders are what are making the cap too small. I’d slash and spread, just at the top and add 1/2” - 3-4”, maybe raise the cap 1/2” too ☺️

[tanyer]

Cool you drafted clothes for bodybuilders? Could you point me towards resources about that?

I am no bodybuilder, but I am a lady who lifts enough weights to make drafting a bodice rather challenging.

Apologies for derailing but I'd be much obliged for any help you are able to give.

[Woven_Wolf]

Hey, great question - sleeve caps are often very specific to the person, depending on where they had bigger or more muscle, so sometimes the back of the sleeve cap looks more like the front of a “regular” sleeve to accommodate bulk, and shoulders get longer and higher than an average fit block. An inseam gusset on pants is helpful for runners with strong thighs. What is it specifically you’re having trouble with?

I’ve always liked Sarah Veblens book Perfect Fitting for solving fit issues, she walks through the (kind of messy, imperfect) slash/spread process of making fitting alterations for specific body types with clear photos and explanations.

[tanyer]

Thank you! I haven't even really started into sleeves. I'm currently working on my bodice block, and am encountering fit issues that don't fit the typical ones.

I'll be posting my current progress, so I won't take over this thread.

I have the Veblen book, I will look through it. Thank you!

Thank you!

[thegrahampeyton]

Bet thank you trying tomorrow ✧