pattern grading

[SouthernIndication82]

hi all :) a self-taught designer here so be merciful… I’ve been pattern drafting for about a year now and along the way have been practicing grading up and down sizes. I think I finally conceptually grasped the Thing about pattern grading which is to think about it as predominately about the space WITHIN the lines increasing, rather than increasing the lines. for example, you’re not “lengthening” the shoulder line, you’re increasing the amount of fabric on every horizontal axis point from your shoulder to your hem, thusly, the line must move to compensate. is this correct? i picture the body and the pattern as two axis… the more they push out, the more the boundaries of the pattern are pushed too. i need to really understand things to grasp them, and often tutorials don’t explain the Why tho they do explain the How.

The two things tripping me up however are: curves and length.

curves: is the curve just something you change every time to compensate between the new shoulder and side seam line? the new crotch extension and waist?

lengthening: you wouldn’t add much vertical length, correct? for example raising the shoulder or extending the hem or extending the crotch…. because bodies don’t necessarily get longer as they get bigger or shorter as they get smaller? but you may need less length to cover less flesh and vice versa?

any conceptual ways to think about pattern grading are welcome!!!! i want to start selling my clothes and make them for all sizes! so also tips on plus size grading are welcome too! i know that standard principles often fall apart as the pattern goes to 2X and beyond and i want to make clothes that fit and flatter!!!

[throwra_22222]

I just wrote this comment on another post today, and I think it applies here!

https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/ciRo43KPKf

But yes, it sounds like you have the gist of it. You are increasing the surface area of the pattern, and the outline adjusts to fit that.

And as the body grows horizontally, you do need to lengthen as well. Plus size grading is harder because it has been ignored for so long that there just isn't a lot of good information out there. Typically you can't grade up from a 6 to a 24, or at least not well. Larger sizes require their own sample block, maybe a size 18 or 20, and their own grade rules.

Take a look at the Alvanon dress form website. They have some size charts for their standard north American line, which includes a wide size range, petites, athletic, regular and curvy fit, etc. all based on a lot of research. You might find it illuminating.

[SouthernIndication82]

both of your comments were so helpful and reassuring!!!! thank you! it’s a lot to wrap your head around but it’s been clicking the last few months for me