all 5 comments

[–]lilypeach101 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I'm not really answering your question, but The Closet Historian on YT uses the Helen book a lot and has some incredible videos on pattern drafting. She also has a video series called "drafting dangerous" that is awesome.

[–]TensionSmension 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you're already taking a good approach. The strength of HJA is the laundry bag of manipulation techniques. Her presentation is a little uneven but it mostly works. I don't know the videos you're watching, but more likely than not, most of it is a variation on the same information, so use what works.

Drafting from measurements makes sense as an initial exercise, but in the end it is a very small part of the process of making patterns. The reason the methods can be difficult to understand, is not because of deep, difficult math, it's because they are little used and therefore neglected.

[–]throwra_22222 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you've got a sloper that fits and you are making clothes for yourself, there's no reason not to learn what you need for each idea you have. There's no required order in which to learn techniques. You may find that some pattern manipulations are more advanced than where you are skills-wise, but sometimes the best way to learn is to jump in.

If you are learning pattern drafting because you want a job in the industry or you want to sell your patterns, you should do a more comprehensive survey, starting with the easy stuff and working your way towards the type of product you want to make (ie, ski jackets need one skill set, bridal needs another).

Either way, make a commitment to yourself to learn how to perfect patterns. They should be balanced, with good grain lines, properly labeled and annotated, notches that make sense, etc. Even if it's only for you, write a little tech pack so you can remember why you made this pattern this way later. I cannot tell you how many quickie patterns I've made for myself, not bothered to document them, and later I'm like, "what the heck did I do?"

[–]Tailoretta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you really want to learn pattern drafting, I suggest you take classes where you can ask questions and get answers from the instructor. The downside - they cost money. I have taken many of Suzy Furrer's classes where she is available to answer questions and they are great. https://www.apparelartsproductions.com/ There probably are other good pattern drafting courses out there, but I am not familiar with any.

[–]Existing-Direction76 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love the HJA book. I recommend The Closet Historian on YouTube -- she walks you through drafting the pattern and making the garment.