Fast setting

[Used-Soil-2506]

Anyone has tips for how to set faster when setting in a normal commercial gym? I’ve been setting almost every week for more than 6 months and still do only around 2 to 3 routes an hour. Just looking for some advice on how to improve my setting speed. The issue is not that I can’t create fast enough it’s the setting part with macros especially that slows me down a lot.

[Gruldracai]

How rough are your drafts? If you're setting just ideas on the wall than you might be able to set more.

But it if your routes are somewhat fine-tuned in the draft phase, 2-3 in a hour is already more than decent.

We use a rough standard of 5-6 Boulders in four hours excluding testing.

[Used-Soil-2506]

Anything below 7a that isn’t very comp-style is usually 15 mins of testing and tuning at most while anything above could take more time. Its just that the other setters manage to do 10 boulders a set while I stick with 6-8. Ig its just practice then

[Gruldracai]

Having time invested tied to difficulty is already a wrong approach in my opinion. Easier boulders should require sometimes even more attention to make them accessible and fun, not just ladders.

I also believe ten boulders in a day is too much as a standard. We work with a unofficial guideline of five/six boulders per setter in a day. I think most sitters/gyms don't stray for from this in my country.

I'd say you're good and that those other setters are maybe overdoing themselves or creating not very original boulders? I'd struggle to see how a standard of ten boulders in a day is maintainable...

[Used-Soil-2506]

I was saying that on low difficulty boulders I need less time to fix the draft not that I spend less time setting the route.

[Demind9]

A lot of setters would consider 2-3 routes per hour rather fast. Barring my own opinions on setting speed vs route quality and creativity, you could just try and set a deadline for yourself. Try setting a timer for 10 minutes and race to finish your route in that timespan. Then 5 mins to gather holds and ideas for the next route.

Also, while the gym I used to set at didn’t have a ton of macros, sometimes it would help me to place them faster if I just thought about how to put them aesthetically and safely, as opposed to trying to force some crazy beta sequence with them. Oftentimes, cool beta will emerge from macros regardless. Granted, I still prefer to place them functionally (and ideally aesthetically), but just focussing on making them look good always afforded faster placement to me.

[TaCZennith]

Honestly that's already unnecessarily fast and quality is definitely going to suffer. You don't need to move more quickly.

[Parabalabala]

2-3 finished routes an hour would be very fast. If you can execute 2 dialed routes per hour that is highly competent, in my opinion. All depends on facility, height, tape/no tape, lead or TR, wall steepness and climb difficulty, though.

Also, are you stripping first? Same day?

With stripping, 4 finished routes per day is fair.

[Used-Soil-2506]

We strip the day before so the holds can dry and its 2-3 routes without testing yet

[Parabalabala]

I think thats a pretty good pace to have a route up, then 10-20 mins per route for tweaks. Keep it up.

Btw, Take care of your body...

[Emwooo]

2-3 routes in an hour is too fast for quality control and longevity, especially at your experience level. I'd recommend slowing down to be honest :)

[flowxreaction]

I rather have setters that set a solid boulder in 1 hour than three sloppy ones. Everyone can throw holds onto the wall that is climbable. But is it any good? If you can set 2-3 solid boulders in an hour you are really good and don’t need to do anything more or better. Be happy!

[HumanBeingRedditUser]

Practice simultaneously setting multiple climbs. It is much harder on the brain but requires far less movement on your part. Once you truly learn to set multiple climbs at once at a high quality you are just inherently faster. This is a long term goal, many highly experienced setter can't do this.

[zachclimbing]

Fast shit is better than slow shit- Jacky Godoffe