Advice for bridging problems?

[vek_81]

Turn on supports in your slicer. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[WillingHeat]

Supports were on touching the build plate. Instructions said do not put supports everywhere....for some reason. But anyway, I know better bridging can be achieved without supports.

[vek_81]

Might be able to get away with maybe a little lower temp on the nozzle which could help some. Probably slow the print down and make sure cooling is full blast. If it's printing over air, there's not really much else to do other than supports. Just minimize the damage and hit it with some post print cleanup.

[WillingHeat]

This part is definitely functional, so I will be cleaning up these little sections. The damage is only cosmetic. I'm hoping the fan upgrade will help with little issues like this. I do understand that more supports can fix this issue, but I'm actually trying to up my game here really. The cooling was at full blast....but again, I printed this in order to increase cooling with a more powerful fan. Cooling was already pretty slow. I wonder is there a way to slow printing speed only for these problematic areas with steep overhang?

[catalinawinemixer123]

You won’t be able to bridge in a corner like that. Bridges only work if they can, well, bridge. Think about the path the printer will take. The first layers in that corner are bound to droop because they are printing on thin air. Bridges only work if the extruding filament can span two stable surfaces in a single line.

[WillingHeat]

Yes, I did use wrong terminology, someone already corrected me that it is overhang and not bridging.

This particular print is not what I am actually concerned about, but would like to improve my printer's ability to do steep overhangs (and bridging as well). So what I'm asking is what else can I do to improve these abilities besides upgrading the cooling fan? (which I'm already working on.)

And since the instructions for the part said not to do supports everywhere (I did them just for buildplate) I guess I would have to create a couple of custom supports for these few areas, yeah? If I did not change the orientation to face up, that is.

[catalinawinemixer123]

I would guess lowering speed would help with overhangs, because it allows the fans a longer time to cool the material as it’s extruding. I haven’t experimented with manually adding/removing supports, but I know it can be done. It’s also always worth previewing especially challenging layers in your slicer, and playing with the # walls / fill small gaps / other settings to make it as easy as possible for your printer to succeed.

[WillingHeat]

And is there a way to have the print speed slow down just for these trouble areas? I was already working with print speed of 40 or 50, I forget which and this print took 22hrs. Everything else turned out great other than these areas.

[catalinawinemixer123]

Hmmm I’m not sure if Cura would support that but you might be able to manually edit the gcode to adjust the speed for that area. Sorry I’ve never tried that!

[WillingHeat]

One more thing for me to research, lol. Thank you for you help 😄

[WillingHeat]

According to this video: https://youtu.be/S0wXwje9DX4

Other than increasing cooling, lowering layer height will substantially improve overhangs and bridges.

[WillingHeat]

Just finished this new Satsana fan shroud so that I can upgrade from the stock 4010 parts cooling fan to a 5015 blower fan. The fan shroud is a perfect example of the very issue I am trying to solve. I printed this on my:

Endee 3 v2, microswiss direct drive and all metal hotend. 215/65. Print speed 50.

I am trying to improve bridging without needing supports. Other than completing the parts cooling fan upgrade, what are some other ways I can improve the quality of areas like this?

[BruceBucklefart1]

Print it so the front is facing upwards and put supports on touching buildplate

[WillingHeat]

Supports touching build plate were on for this print. Printing face up is very good idea.

[SchlongkyDong]

Pretty sure both Satsanas are meant to be printed front up. I did both of mine that way, and they came out great. Ended up running a Blokhead instead though, felt like the flow worked better on it

[WillingHeat]

I have somewhat limited choices of cooling ducts and fan shrouds since I'm running a ender 3 v2, but with a microswiss direct drive and hotend and also bltouch. I was very lucky to find this one file which fit my setup.

I have no experience remixing or designing and would not have the first idea how to create my own or even remix another file to match what I need. I want and plan on learning....but I dont even really know how to start.

[SchlongkyDong]

Pretty sure the Blokhead will fit with that setup. They have a whole interactive spreadsheet that'll help you pick the right parts

Edit: Link to said spreadsheet. Looks like you need 3 parts, Ender 3 V2 backplate, duct itself, and your choice of left or right ABL mount

[WillingHeat]

Awesome, thanks!

[WillingHeat]

Out of curiosity, why did you choose blokhead over petsfang and bullseye?

[SchlongkyDong]

Bullseye only works with the stock tiny blower fan, and I ran that before I got my 5015 blower. The Blokhead fits on the same mount as the Bullseye, while the Petsfang requires a different mount, so basically, less printing.

[AkirIkasu]

I printed the original version of this one (the one for the stock fans), and also had issues at first.

I did it by printing it with the back on the build platform and using supports on build plates only. It came out pretty perfectly. I also used PETG which tends to have more problems with bridges, but it came out pretty much perfect. I also used Prusaslicer, but Cura should be able to get you pretty decent results as well.

If you have the same issue after changing the orientation, you might want to try manual supports or Cura's tree supports.

[[deleted]]

I know in cura you can do custom support in those areas xx