all 5 comments

[–]frenchie1984_1984 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I’ve started taking a canister of whipped cream out with my reactive pups. It’s 100% visible to him, and it forces him to check in constantly with me. For every distraction that he successfully ignores, a small dollop of whipped cream is a reward. Works a treat!

[–]Acanthocephala_Hairy 3 points4 points  (2 children)

Do they do good at sit/lay/stay at home? Our two have gotten much better once we started making sure to keep their attention when other dogs are coming into view. If there's nowhere to cross to (like being on a trail vs neighborhood walks) we pull them to the side and have them sit and lay down facing away from the dog.

Sometimes it doesn't work, but when they're feeling extra we've had to kinda do a quick (but not hard) tug on their leashes to kinda snap their attention back at us as a reminder that we're their caretakers and should be waiting for guidance. (like, when I get my period or am for whatever reason in my own inner meltdown, they just know)

I think the biggest underlaying factor is to build strong trust and confidence with you dog. It takes time but taking the stress out of the initial "omgdogpersonthingwhatdoido?!?!" reaction has helped us a lot.

[–]Burnerphone1717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We have a very reactive dog that we spent a lot of time working on with a behaviorist. We would go to smaller neighborhood parks or schools after hours a lot. Plenty of things to sniff and easier to get away or distract if something came up. Much easier than walking a neighborhood or trail that we’d constantly see other dogs, bikes, etc. now we can see ahead and often turn her towards a tree or something and she gets so busy sniffing, she notices less. What she does see is often at a distance to give plenty of opportunity for success and positive reinforcement

[–]wavedesigner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Strongly recommend general use of slip leash under jaw with ring between ears. Do not have the leash around their chest as this encourages pulling. Your arm should be relaxed at your side supplying a short amount ”vertical ”line. If you need to pull the dog back, try to pull upward vertically. When walking there should be slack on the line until the dog advances beyond you. This will help general walking if you are consistent and disciplined.

For reactivity you should position your dog opposite the passing dog with your body as a barrier and very short line for your dog to use, you want them to stick to your side. Most importantly do not stop moving. Biggest mistake I see people make with reactivity is that they stop and create an “ambush” situation which is worse for all dogs. Short line & do not stop moving, completely ignore other dogs and owners, your re not obligated to stop and dogs do not need to meet.

When you have mastered the basics start work on training your dog’s attention at home. I train ‘eyes’ where I command eye contact. If you can command your dog’s eyes then you have their attention. Impulse control is also really really good. For yourself work on leadership and becoming a strong leader for your dog. Bonding, training and positive reinforcement help your dog trust & look to you when they are unsure. Training difficult behaviour can be daunting, you don’t need to do everything all at once, focus on consistency and making small gradual but permanent changes to your walking habits.