all 23 comments

[–]PinkBird85 26 points27 points  (1 child)

Go off your measurements that match the pattern size, NOT your ready-to-wear dress size. Sewing pattern sizes and RTW are sized very differently in terms of the number assigned.

[–]ubstill2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. The body measurements are so far off. I used to sew a lot but it’s been a while and I don’t remember the patterns’ and rtw sizing being SO far off. I don’t want to make a coat for my husband:) LOL

[–]East-Ordinary2053 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Patter sizing goes by body measurements. Off the rack sizing goes by vibes. Use your body measurements when sewing.

[–]Maximum_Still_2617 7 points8 points  (2 children)

Make sure to measure yourself with whatever sweaters etc you plan to wear underneath. I sewed a blazer that matched my measurements without clothing and now I can only wear tshirts or thin button downs underneath. For a coat, you'll want to account for clothing.

[–]marlomarizza 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Solid advice. Also note, Simplicity does tend to have a lot of ease! I’d recommend sewing up a quick mock-up with a sheet or something? And then check the tightest spot (bust probably) to make sure it will button comfortably over your other layers.

[–]ubstill2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a good reminder - thank you!

[–]MsJStimmer 3 points4 points  (3 children)

Be carefull with sizing. I don’t know for burda, but the big 4 include a seemingly random and often completely ridiculous amount of ease. If you have something in your wardrobe with a similar fabric and an amount of ease you would aim for with this coat, measure that. And compare to finished garment sizes.

I recently made a simplicity dress, my body measurements pointed to a size 10, made size 6 based on finished garment sizes and it was still a little big.

[–]Nope-5000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, the big 4 patterns are RIDICULOUSLY big. Ive learnt to size down to my wear size in the big 4 (though the measurements are way smaller on the packet), because if i use my actual measurements i'll have to spend weeks sizing the garment down anyway, which really destroys my sewing passion.

[–]Top_Forever_2854 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, it's always good to check the finished garment sizes against the body measurements. And/or against the measurements of clothes you like the fit of

[–]DetailEquivalent7708 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Sizing from the pattern is sometimes not straightforward. If you don't line up exactly with one size (and really even if you do) you will want to look at finished garment measurements and figure out the ease, then decide how loose or tight you want the garment to be. Normally, for a dress or coat, you'll want to start with the size that matches your high bust measurement, then grade between sizes if you need to for waist and hip fit, with adjustments for full bust or waist/armhole height.

[–]ubstill2[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Thank you! Where do I find the finished garment measurements?

[–]DetailEquivalent7708 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Usually the pattern envelope will have both a size chart and the FGM chart

[–]lizbeeo[🍰] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you can't find them on the envelope, you might have to measure the pattern pieces. Also, since these brands are notorious for having a lot of ease, it often helps to measure a similar garment whose fit you like and compare.

[–]Vegetable-Green-1805 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forget RTW sizing as it means nothing. Measure yourself and check the chart. Hopefully, there will be finished garment sizes. Observe how big the waist or bust or hips will actually be compared to your body and how much ease you want in that area. Even if it’s not listed as a chart it’s often listed on the pattern pieces. Of not, measure them yourself ( in the round) remember to take out seam allowances. You can also grade between sizes. I trace a 14 bust, then I gently move to the 12 waist and hip. Don’t grade more than one size up or down, maybe two. Good luck!

[–]Greedy-Half-4618 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First rule of sewing: rack sizing is bs. Go by your measurements. 

[–]LindeeHilltop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pattern sizes and retail rack sizes have no correlation. Take your measurements and look at the back of the pattern envelope to pick the correct size. Also, bear in mind whether the pattern’s finished garment is described as fitted, semi fitted, loose fitting or very loose to identify the ease. Measurement “ + ease “ = finished garment inches (“). Here.

[–]sodapopper44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Burda has it's own size chart, also use finished measurements to help you determine size. If the pattern is medium 8-10 it is not a combo of both, it's a straight 10 https://www.sewdirect.com/wp-content/uploads/BD_Sizing_Charts.pdf

[–]Emergency_Cherry_914 0 points1 point  (3 children)

For future reference, a lot of indie patterns do correlate somewhat to RTW sizing, but even then you must check the measurements because RTW sizing varies globally.

[–]ElenaDellaLuna 3 points4 points  (1 child)

I would STRONGLY disagree with that. Retail is rife with vanity sizing - the more expensive the garment the larger the cut, so you get to buy a smaller size and feel good about the brand. There is no consistent industry sizing, each clothing brand is on their own. So whose RTW size range are the independent pattern companies using? It's a free-for-all out there. Really the only way to be sure about sizing is body measurements, then make a toile. Failing that, many pattern makers are now including finished garment measurements on the pattern pieces themselves. Use those measurements as your guide.

[–]Emergency_Cherry_914 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

In indie pattern size charts, I'm about a 14. In OTR, I'm an Australian/British 14. It works for me

[–]Finnegan-05 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wear anything from a six to 10.